Starter Woes?

[LandRoverRo]

Symptoms are: parked car at shops after running fine. No hesitation in starting or signs of low battery at all over last 2 weeks.
Came out of store to start car and solenoid click but nothing else. Headlights are bright, fan works, all electrical working and seemingly strong.
Thinking my starter motor went kaput.http://www.discoweb.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif

Next question is: can an automotive electrical shop rebuild these starters? Mine is a motor from an '85/'86 Sherpa/Rover 2.5l diesel.

My only other noted symptom is I felt like the car had a vibration on accelleration and deccelleration. THinking this is drivetrain-related and not related at all to the starter issue, but could it possibly be something to do with flywheel/starter gear mesh?

TIA.

[singingcamel]

Symptoms are: parked car at shops after running fine. No hesitation in starting or signs of low battery at all over last 2 weeks.
Came out of store to start car and solenoid click but nothing else. Headlights are bright, fan works, all electrical working and seemingly strong.
Thinking my starter motor went kaput.http://www.discoweb.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif

Next question is: can an automotive electrical shop rebuild these starters? Mine is a motor from an '85/'86 Sherpa/Rover 2.5l diesel.

My only other noted symptom is I felt like the car had a vibration on accelleration and deccelleration. THinking this is drivetrain-related and not related at all to the starter issue, but could it possibly be something to do with flywheel/starter gear mesh?

TIA.
i would clean all connections to your starter, make sure things are tight,you may have a loose connection.
can be rebuilt.

[badvibes]

Start with easy stuff, check the battery posts/connections. Are they clean and solid. Look for corrosion. Make sure all ground straps are the same. Have had a battery cable corrode inside the insulation that caused a similar problem. Cable looked fine but when you grabbed it the insulation just collapsed in your hand, all the wire inside was basically gone. I've also run extra ground straps (my truck has had a + to - conversion done) from the battery to the frame, engine to frame, body to frame, distributor to frame. I went thru a period where it seemed all my gremlins were electrical. Maybe overkill and ground straps by themselves didn't solve my gremlins but I haven't had any problems (just cursed myself didn't I?) since fixing my distributor ground problem. Maybe it's something as simple as this.

Jeff

[Terrys]

I agree with the others. It sounds like a connection has loosened up. Frequently it's the cable connection at the starter. Because the bolt passes through a plastic insulation block, it's difficult to get it torqued without crushing the insulator.
I don't think your vibration issue is related to the starter issue.

[LandRoverRo]

...for all your help and suggestions.

Last night I took a test light and checked that power was going to the starter. Power was there but when I turned the key, there was no connection of the points in the solenoid (no light). I tried tapping with a hammer while turning the key but couldn't get any contact that way either. I did notice that the main post is loose as I took all the connections off and cleaned them up. Everything is quite clean. Perhaps there is an issue with it there. I've pulled it out and will take it to get checked out and rebuilt if necessary.

Thought I'd attach a photo of the car too just for the sake of it.
Thanks again.

[Tim Smith]

...Thought I'd attach a photo of the car too just for the sake of it.
Thanks again.

Nice wheels. Where did you find them?

[LandRoverRo]

Nice wheels. Where did you find them?Thanks. Are you talking about the wheels or the car? Either way, I just imported the car from the U.K. two weeks ago. The wheels were one of the extras added to the car. Don't know what they are exactly.

[Tim Smith]

Thanks. Are you talking about the wheels or the car? Either way, I just imported the car from the U.K. two weeks ago. The wheels were one of the extras added to the car. Don't know what they are exactly.

Yeah, I was talking about the wheels. Mine are currently in a state of rust. So I've got it on the mind lately.

Looks like a good truck too! :thumb-up:

Cheers,
Tim

[LandRoverRo]

Yeah, I was talking about the wheels. Mine are currently in a state of rust. So I've got it on the mind lately.

Looks like a good truck too! :thumb-up:

Cheers,
TimWould it be cost-effective to have your wheels sand blasted and re-painted? I believe there are several sources for new steel wheels in the U.S.

[Tim Smith]

Would it be cost-effective to have your wheels sand blasted and re-painted? I believe there are several sources for new steel wheels in the U.S.

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.

I was more interested in your wheels because of the offset. They seem to sit a little further out than standard wheels and I like the way that looks.

Cheers,
Tim

[109sixer]

I believe those wheels are or at least look identical to the Black Nugget made
bu American Racing. They are sold by Gul Coast Rovers...

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=3

[Tim Smith]

I believe those wheels are or at least look identical to the Black Nugget made
bu American Racing. They are sold by Gul Coast Rovers...

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=3 (http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=3)


Ouch! $66 each is too much for my squeaky cheap blood. :p
Looks like I'll be painting mine.

Thanks for finding them for us though.

[yorker]

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.


Tim

FWIW I read somewhere- (Here? LRUK Boards?) that LR wheels are heat treated and will lose their strength if you Galvanize them. The fellow claimed he did his and they got all bent to hell in short order. I don't know if it is true but it might be something to think about- it was the only time I heard of the issue...

[LandRoverRo]

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.

I was more interested in your wheels because of the offset. They seem to sit a little further out than standard wheels and I like the way that looks.

Cheers,
TimYes, I like the offset too. They sit just about even with the body work. I've seen Forward Control wheels on a regular Series and they have a larger offset than standard also which gives the same, more stable, look.

[Tim Smith]

FWIW I read somewhere- (Here? LRUK Boards?) that LR wheels are heat treated and will lose their strength if you Galvanize them. The fellow claimed he did his and they got all bent to hell in short order. I don't know if it is true but it might be something to think about- it was the only time I heard of the issue...

Thanks for the note. I'll have to do some research before doing that I guess.

[LaneRover]

Years ago I met a guy in San Diego from Toronto, Canada who was travelling all over the US in an 88 who had galvanized his wheels. I wish I could remember his name but he was glad that he did and as far as I remember had suffered no ill effects. So it is possible but you might have to be careful.

LaneRover

[Moose]

Years ago I met a guy in San Diego from Toronto, Canada who was travelling all over the US in an 88 who had galvanized his wheels. I wish I could remember his name but he was glad that he did and as far as I remember had suffered no ill effects. So it is possible but you might have to be careful.

LaneRover
That may have been Larry Berti you met. Was it a blue SIII soft top? Larry and I both had our wheels galvanized about 7 or 8 years ago and they are working fine, and looking great. I have five more I am about to get sand blasted and dipped for my 110.

Brett

[LaneRover]

Yes that was Larry Berti and he did have a nice blue 88. I showed him around San Diego a little bit while he was here. I had seen him in his 88 and tried to chase him down but lost him as I was on foot. A day or two later he got ahold of me in a parking lot when I was driving my 65 109.

If you talk to him, tell him that I say hello!

Brent

[scott]

my rover has the automatic wheel rust prevention system...leak'n hubs.

[jp-]

my rover has the automatic wheel rust prevention system...leak'n hubs.

Scott,

I think this came standard. Mine has this option as well. I also have the automatic undercarriage oiler package as well.

[scott]

given the auto-oiler our low humidity and never any salt on our winter roads i figure my iia will rattle apart before it rusts apart

[Tim Smith]

Start with easy stuff, check the battery posts/connections. Are they clean and solid. Look for corrosion. Make sure all ground straps are the same. Have had a battery cable corrode inside the insulation that caused a similar problem. Cable looked fine but when you grabbed it the insulation just collapsed in your hand, all the wire inside was basically gone. I've also run extra ground straps (my truck has had a + to - conversion done) from the battery to the frame, engine to frame, body to frame, distributor to frame. I went thru a period where it seemed all my gremlins were electrical. Maybe overkill and ground straps by themselves didn't solve my gremlins but I haven't had any problems (just cursed myself didn't I?) since fixing my distributor ground problem. Maybe it's something as simple as this.

Jeff

Jeff,
In order to get this back on track... or maybe to make myself feel better about the hijack...

Have you ever noticed corrosion on the body to frame connections? How long have they been in place?

You know that steel and aluminum are of different chemical bonds/electrical behavior, right? Is there any corrosion showing yet? Keep an eye on it.

Cheers,
Tim

[LandRoverRo]

Jeff,
In order to get this back on track... or maybe to make myself feel better about the hijack...

Have you ever noticed corrosion on the body to frame connections? How long have they been in place?

You know that steel and aluminum are of different chemical bonds/electrical behavior, right? Is there any corrosion showing yet? Keep an eye on it.

Cheers,
TimThanks. I'm as guilty as anyone for deviating from the orginal subject. I've had the starter stripped and they (the shop) found a cracked brush. They can't find the appropriate replacement parts for it so i'm stuck with having to find a new starter. i've tried a bunch of places and Rovers North actually has one (at a decent price) but I'm going to use my contacts in the U.K. to try to find the parts I need to have mine rebuilt. I might be penny-pinching but hey, that's how I am.
I am fortunate that my car was rebuilt 2 years ago (minus any body work) and everything is super clean and pretty much corrosion-free (except doors). All connections look very good.
My wife makes fun of me for loving Land Rovers so much and sometimes I wonder why I do. The Land Rover community is what keeps me hooked.
Thank goodness for enthusiasts.:thumb-up:

[badvibes]

Jeff,
In order to get this back on track... or maybe to make myself feel better about the hijack...

Have you ever noticed corrosion on the body to frame connections? How long have they been in place?

You know that steel and aluminum are of different chemical bonds/electrical behavior, right? Is there any corrosion showing yet? Keep an eye on it.

Cheers,
Tim

Tim-
The area I've noticed any corrosion that I feel is due to the difference in metals is at the rear of the truck where the steel body mounts from the rear crossmember are bolted to the aluminum body. Not anything I'd call "bad" but the lower edge of the aluminum is not smooth, kind of "roughened" if you look at it closely. With a 40+ year old truck I'm thinking the corrosion due to disimilar metals is not going to be a major issue during my lifetime. As for the ground straps I ran, neg battery post to frame, engine to frame, frame to distributor body, and body to frame I don't recall anything at all for corrosion. They've been in place for a couple of years now, I've owned the truck for @ 8 years. I will keep an eye out though...
Has this been a serious problem that you know of? I just love learning about all these "unique" benefits and features of Rover ownership.

Jeff

[scott]

i guess if anyone should apologize for deviating it is i the deviate. i too love the rove and appriceate the seriously deep pool of knowlege that forms when those who turn their own wrenches get together

[Tim Smith]

Has this been a serious problem that you know of?

Sure it has. Thats why you see a lot of door frames falling apart. This is just one example and there are many more.

If you truck was put together properly, you should have a rubber (or some sort of inert material) grommet fitting between the steel tabs and your aluminum tub where it is bolted together. If not then you should start to see white powdery stuff and/or rust where the aluminum and steel is touching. Thats due the the steel and aluminum fighting each other. Usually the steel looses first.

The white powder is the aluminum oxidizing so don't let any one tell you that aluminum lasts forever. :p


I just love learning about all these "unique" benefits and features of Rover ownership.

Jeff

Yeah these old trucks are great! Not only is there always something new to learn but there is always something to look at and day-dream about too.
:thumb-up: :thumb-up: :thumb-up:

Cheers,
Tim

[LandRoverRo]

One brush cracked (in half) and bushings and roller bearing worn in my faulty starter.
Found a new (aftermarket) starter at Rovers Down South for $175. My choice is this, a new LR one from Rovers North for $400 or a Mean Green for $349.
I'm going cheap. Might be a mistake, but it's cheap.
Thanks for everyone's help.:thumb-up: