What engine would you put in a 72 SIII?

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  • sleam
    1st Gear
    • May 2010
    • 104

    What engine would you put in a 72 SIII?

    Hello folks, after chatting to some friends about my Series, I'm looking into getting a new engine in the SIII> what would you do? Bear in mind, it's beyond my skills so a mechanic will be doing this for me! I like the suggestion Teriann had in another thread about a Ford engine. It sounded like it didn't affect everything else just more power and good handling.
    What do you think?

    1959 SII sold
    1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)
  • SafeAirOne
    Overdrive
    • Apr 2008
    • 3435

    #2
    What are you trying to achieve with a different engine? It'll help folks recommend LOGICAL candidates.

    What's wrong with the existing engine, in your view?
    Last edited by SafeAirOne; 01-16-2014, 02:24 PM.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

    Comment

    • greenmeanie
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1358

      #3
      Originally posted by sleam
      I like the suggestion Teriann had in another thread about a Ford engine. It sounded like it didn't affect everything else just more power and good handling.
      What do you think?
      I think you might want to go to her website and see the changes she's done to her truck and then reconsider your statement. Now she makes the valid point that gearbox to TC adapters are now available off the shelf so things are easier these days but you'll still end up swapping the entire drivetrain, making bulkhead mods for most V8s and the thousand other detail changes that go wih an engine swap. Bar one or two bolt in replacements (Even they require some work if you're going from petrol to diesel) it will change everything.

      Mark makes a very valid point. Change for change sake won't be very satisfying.

      Comment

      • kenscs
        Low Range
        • Nov 2011
        • 72

        #4
        I have been doing some work on this lately myself since I just dont have enough pull with the original 2.25 petrol in my '71 SIIa. Even with 8:1 compression and new Weber carb, it still isnt enough to get me around town. I am currently working on the issue that it might be something other than engine, because when I put the choke on a bit, it get more uphill power. Anyway, to YOUR question, here is what my digging around forums had let me.

        For simplicity sake, you can stick to an engine with same block as what is likley your 4 cylinder, so moving to a 200DI or if you want a little more the right 200 TDI Turbo. If you get the right Turbo, you dont have to do too much, and from what I read, it makes a healthy difference. I doubt you will be doing 0 to 60 in 8 seconds, but someone else who runs that setup may know more what the relative transition is. To make life easy in this transition, there is a short bell housing you can mate to the R380 transmission so you also get syncro in all gears.

        After the 200TDI, what I ascertained was, it aint going to be too easy and I might as well get out a very large check book or make this my FULL time hobby for a few months to do the necessary work to change mounts, etc, for a new engine block. Others with more expereince here can correct me if I am off base, but if you search on "engine swap" or "200TDI" in this forum, there is a ton of very helpful info. Also try Googling the same. Rovers North, our hosts, can help you track down an engine as well as a place in Atlanta.
        1971 Series IIa 109 Ex-MoD
        1994 Landcruiser FJZ80, ARB Front Bumper, Old Man EMU suspension

        Comment

        • sleam
          1st Gear
          • May 2010
          • 104

          #5
          Well, yes, I did read her website in more detail and hmm, she had to do a lot of work! Mine is more a case like that kenscs wrote about. The old 2.25 petrol engine is just not cutting it any more. It'll need a valve/ seals/ bore job etc soon as the blue smoke and wet plugs tell me. The compression is low. The power is low, especially as I live in a mountainous area and I drag up hill at 30mph if I'm lucky with the traffic backed up.
          I've done a good tune up recently and that didn't help.
          So I'm just doing some research into options. I like the idea of more strength on the hills and a good running speed of 55 mph is fine.
          Perhaps it's as simple as a rebuilt engine or even just a new 2.25? Friends suggest I put in a diesel if I go that route.

          1959 SII sold
          1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)

          Comment

          • alaskantinbender
            Low Range
            • Dec 2012
            • 52

            #6
            I don't know how much your elevation is affecting the power of the 2.25. We just acquired a 73 S3 88 for my wife to drive with a 2.25 and its a very peppy ride at sea level. No problem at 55 and pushed will do 65 on the flats. The only thing not stock is a single barrel webber carb.
            If its in fact your elevation the rover turbo diesel would be my recommendation. Less fabrication problem's changing engines with more torque and fuel economy.

            Good luck and take lots of pics for us
            Originally posted by sleam
            Well, yes, I did read her website in more detail and hmm, she had to do a lot of work! Mine is more a case like that kenscs wrote about. The old 2.25 petrol engine is just not cutting it any more. It'll need a valve/ seals/ bore job etc soon as the blue smoke and wet plugs tell me. The compression is low. The power is low, especially as I live in a mountainous area and I drag up hill at 30mph if I'm lucky with the traffic backed up.
            I've done a good tune up recently and that didn't help.
            So I'm just doing some research into options. I like the idea of more strength on the hills and a good running speed of 55 mph is fine.
            Perhaps it's as simple as a rebuilt engine or even just a new 2.25? Friends suggest I put in a diesel if I go that route.
            1963 Series 11A 109, Left hand drive, Koneg PTO winch, ACR 2.8L 5 bearing power plus Engine with weber carb. Truetrac gear driven limited-slip traction rear differential.

            Comment

            • PeterK
              Low Range
              • Nov 2006
              • 33

              #7
              If you resist the 200tdi craze you might consider the GM 4.3 V6.
              No mods to the truck other than motor mounts.
              Mine is turning a NV3550 through the Advance Adapters Tcase adapter.
              I'm currently bombing down the east coast towing a 24' Airstream.
              Cruising at 65.
              (Till a U joint exploded today)
              I know diesel is appealing but this is a very tidy and cheap setup.

              Peter
              http://blog.travelswithgeordie.com/

              Comment

              • antichrist
                2nd Gear
                • Mar 2009
                • 272

                #8
                Easiest is, obviously, a rebuilt 2.25/2.5 petrol or diesel. If you buy a rebult 2.25 I'd get a 5 main bearing engine.
                Next easiest it probably a 200DI then a Defender 200Tdi then a 200Tdi from D1 (Defender turbo is better located for a Series). In the mountains I'd go with the Tdi.
                The diesels can use the same fuel system just with the addition of a fuel return line to the tank, a simple modification.

                But it really comes down, as mentioned, how you use/want to use your Rover. If it's just a runabout and some off-roading probably a rebuilt replacement engine. Or get yours rebuilt. If a high yearly mileage, a diesel makes more sense.
                Tom Rowe

                Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
                in places even more inaccessible.

                62 88 reg
                67 NADA x2
                74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
                95 D1 - R380
                95 D90 - R380
                97 D1 - ZF

                Comment

                • nz rover
                  Low Range
                  • Sep 2013
                  • 10

                  #9
                  Hey Sleam - I am in a similar predicament and have done a ton of research as well. My '66 109" is going through a swap (soon) and it's no small feat. I've got a post nestled somewhere in the forum as well on a similar topic. From my perspective it comes down to how deep your pockets are and what you really want to do. In your case it sounds like you want a mechanic to do the swap so the labor, particularly with a GM or Ford V8 will be rather costly. Another important consideration is heat, it's a narrow chassis and small engine bay so heat builds quickly (the nail in the coffin regarding header choices).

                  Peter mentioned the GM 4.3 / 3550 combo which is my other top contender. The lack of the 2 additional cylinders from a 350 small block make it an appealing choice (much shorter block). The only problem I've had with the 4.3L V6 is that I don't see a big aftermarket for it, but that may be a result of not knowing exactly where to look.

                  Good luck, keep us posted. The motor / trans swap is always a fun discussion.

                  Comment

                  • o2batsea
                    Overdrive
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 1199

                    #10
                    Have done a couple and there is no easy pathway other than rebuilding what is already there. Larger displacement engines, especially multi bank engines, engender many other engineering changes. More cooling, more transmission, body modifications, fuel system mods, more stopping power, blah blah blah...
                    If you are paying someone else to do the work, this stuff really starts hurting quickly. I would conservatively estimate somewhere between 6 and 10 thousand for a swap of the nature you describe.
                    Maybe you should start thinking more like buying a 90 and either selling the Series or keep it and accept it for what it is. In the next couple of years the Tdi powered 90 an 110s will become legal to import, so the flood gates will once again open up having been recently slammed. There are also gobs of LHD 90s with 4 cylinder diesels and petrols that are legal to bring in now, so there are options.

                    Comment

                    • TeriAnn
                      Overdrive
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 1087

                      #11
                      I have always advocated a system approach to engine swaps. If you increase power you need to go through the rest of the drive train and strengthen the weakest parts to be able to handle the additional power.

                      The weakest parts of your drive train are the gearbox, 2 pin Rover R&P carrier, and 10 spline rear axles.

                      Your easiest upgrade path is to go to ACR and buy a rebuilt 2.5L petrol engine with one of their flowed 9:1 cylinder heads and SU intake manifold. That would be about as bolt in as you could get on an engine swap and The go pretty good. I would suggest upgrading to an aftermarket carrier and 24 spline rear axles to go with that. And I would suggest being easy with the clutch.

                      Next would be either a 200 or 300 tdi (both have almost identical power curves but the 300 is quieter). A 300tdi would need a 200tdi flywheel housing to fit the Series bell housing. Both would need the Defender manifolds. These engines are a nice power upgrade to the 2.25 but are ballpark to the ACR 2.5 petrol for power. These engines are not known for being robust. You will have to play some games with the radiator bulkhead to get the intercooler & radiator to fit and be in the airstream.

                      Next would be the Mercedes 617 diesel five cylinder engine. More robust that the 200/300tdis, available locally with local parts support. Rob Davis has engineered a conversion kit to fit one into a Series 4 cyl engine bay. This is about the longest engine that can fit into a 4 cylinder bay.

                      For any of the diesels you would want to add an overdrive. Either the Roverdrive or the Santana overdrive clone made by Heystee automotive. Again these should all have a 24 spline rear axle & aftermarket carrier upgrade. Plus your will be gentle on the clutch.

                      Anything more powerful than these will require a gearbox & clutch upgrade as well. And when you go with a V engine you need to install power steering for clearance. Remember if you want to get back home from a trip you need to take a systems approach to the drive train.

                      Your cheapest upgrade might be to make do until 2015 and then look for a LHD 1990 200tdi D90. The mainland Europe has LHD & less rust. than is common in the UK.
                      Last edited by TeriAnn; 01-17-2014, 10:21 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
                      -

                      Teriann Wakeman_________
                      Flagstaff, AZ.




                      1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978

                      My Land Rover web site

                      Comment

                      • sleam
                        1st Gear
                        • May 2010
                        • 104

                        #12
                        Thanks everyone, great food for thought. I think that the rebuilt is the way to go for now and yes, in a couple of years import from England (where I grew up and my brother has a Defender!)...I'll talk to my mechanic about the upgrades to go along with the engine as you suggested TerriAnn. Thanks again!
                        s

                        1959 SII sold
                        1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)

                        Comment

                        • siii8873
                          Overdrive
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 1011

                          #13
                          2.25 petrol or diesel.
                          THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
                          THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
                          THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
                          THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
                          THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
                          THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

                          Comment

                          • I Leak Oil
                            Overdrive
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 1796

                            #14
                            Mid to late 2000's LS motor with SM465 would be a sweet setup. Gobbs of power and good efficiency.
                            Jason
                            "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

                            Comment

                            • kenscs
                              Low Range
                              • Nov 2011
                              • 72

                              #15
                              Another option I have been exploring is a Turner Engineering swap of even just the head that they performance tune. My guess is that will give you a decent boost.



                              Here is an article with on the swap.

                              1971 Series IIa 109 Ex-MoD
                              1994 Landcruiser FJZ80, ARB Front Bumper, Old Man EMU suspension

                              Comment

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