Floor plates and tunnel cover

[IIA]

The floor plates and tunnel cover in my 1970 IIA are (barely) attached with a mix of different screws and bolts--where they're not missing entirely. I'm planning to replace all of them but I'd like to get close to what was originally there. It looks like the oldest fasteners on the floor plates are truss headed machine screws. Does that sound right to you? And how about the tunnel?

Also, I read in the Haynes LR restoration manual that the floor plates were glued down. Has anyone else done that?

[SafeAirOne]

Don't imagine yours is too different than on the SIII:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/12095376534_75584ac223.jpg

[CMorris]

Also, I read in the Haynes LR restoration manual that the floor plates were glued down. Has anyone else done that?

Not glue, strip caulk, 3M part number 08578 in a box, or one of many others out there on rolls (rolls are easier to work with).

Colby

[IIA]

Great drawing. Where does that come from? I assume those are part numbers. Does it give any details (bolt and washer sizes, etc.)?

[SafeAirOne]

Great drawing. Where does that come from? I assume those are part numbers. Does it give any details (bolt and washer sizes, etc.)?

Series III Parts Catalogue. In the back sections of the book is a section with the nomenclature for every part number. Some of the hardware have size details listed and some just say "washer" or "nut" etc.

[greenmeanie]

Large diameter slotted truss head machine screws in 1/4-20 do the job. You'll need a set of matching J-nuts and some normal hex nuts and washers too. Available at Ace Hardware or if you fancy the Stainless look they can be had from McMaster Carr.

Having just pulled the tunnel and floors from a TD5 Defender I view RTC3744 as the spawn of Satan and all have been replaced with standard cage nuts.

[SafeAirOne]

I view RTC3744 as the spawn of Satan and all have been replaced with standard cage nuts.

Funny, those are the only ones I like. The rest are a pain in the butt.

[TeriAnn]

You can just order a set of the correct parts from Rovers North. You get proper everything with proper finish. All brand spanky new.

[Revtor]

"Mortite"is a strip caulk available in HD/Lowes. Comes on a big roll that will last you a few years and its cheap. Doesn't harden and sticks well.

[SafeAirOne]

Also, I read in the Haynes LR restoration manual that the floor plates were glued down. Has anyone else done that?


"Mortite"is a strip caulk available in HD/Lowes. Comes on a big roll that will last you a few years and its cheap. Doesn't harden and sticks well.


Not glue, strip caulk, 3M part number 08578 in a box, or one of many others out there on rolls (rolls are easier to work with)


If you seal up the floor boards, how will the water drain out? :sly:

[greenmeanie]

You can just order a set of the correct parts from Rovers North. You get proper everything with proper finish. All brand spanky new.

Wow, who knew they originally came gold plated.

[Les Parker]

RN offers RNK822 for Series III and RNK823 for the Series II/IIa. Is it worth scratting about with odd nuts/bolts/washers or fit the Genuine parts and end up with the correct finish.

2p

[yorker]

Sure for 2 pence I could see buying the kit, but for now I'm afraid my frugality will mean I will soldier on with the assortment of fasteners I have.

[jac04]

RN offers RNK822 for Series III ...

I bought this kit when I restored my Lightweight. It's a nice kit, but I thought it was expensive years ago when I only paid about $50 for it. Now it's $100.

[taffhill]

If you seal up the floor boards, how will the water drain out? :sly: Drill holes to drain it http://forums.roversnorth.com/images/smilies/sly.gif

[PileDriver]

Does anyone manufacture new floor boards?

[SafeAirOne]

Does anyone manufacture new floor boards?

Anyone with a sharpie, a drill and a jigsaw can manufacture as many new floorboards as they desire.

[triumphtr7guy]

I second what Mark said, floor boards are just flat plate, a little bit of cardboard/brown paper bag for a template and you are in business. As for the securing fittings, I havent priced them, but how much time do you want to spend sourcing and finding parts?and what is your time worth? As someone in the New England Triumph club once said, "do you want to be fixing it or driving it?" Actually making up new floor boards is one of my next projects, will be adding some more comments tommorrow to my experience. Good Luck!!
Bruce, Triumph TR7 guy

[siii8873]

if you caulk the rim do not overtighten the fasteners it will warp the floors

[IIA]

Mortite? Great, then I'm all set. I bought a box of that last week to weatherstrip my house. I had no idea you could use it on vehicles too.

[Boston]

If you seal up the floor boards, how will the water drain out? :sly:

The way it came in?

[greenmeanie]

As for the securing fittings, I havent priced them, but how much time do you want to spend sourcing and finding parts?and what is your time worth?


About 20 minutes on any decent fastener web site or about 10 minutes in my box of old nuts, bolts and screws as Yorker said. This ain't an engine block and I did price out equivalents before making my comment on pricing.

[RoverDover]

The way it came in?

Sorry, cant easily turn my truck upside down.

[SafeAirOne]

Sorry, cant easily turn my truck upside down.

To be fair, I get plenty of water incursion from beneath too.