voltage regulator issues

[NC_Mule]

1970 IIA 2.25 gas with generator So I've been having weak battery issues. Tested the recharge at the battery and I'm getting 13V going in from the generator. My manual talks about unhooking D and F from the regulator, jumping them together and attaching the (-) side of a volt meter to that jumper. Then you take the (+) lead of the meter and ground it to the generator body. Use that procedure to see what the generator is putting out. I get 20 v at fast idle. Does that sound too high? The manual also mentioned cleaning each of the two contacts on the regulator. One handles current the other handles voltage. After cleaning those my charge light on the dash stays lit, even at fast idle. My charge light was not on before I cleaned the contacts. I was careful, don't think I bent anything. I even hit them with brake cleaner and compressed air to knock any dirt/grit out. My manual has a few more checks to make on the regulator and I will tackle that tomorrow. Kind of probing here, can I get a modern voltage regulator to replace this old style one? I have plans to switch to a 10si or 12si and those are regulated internally but we have a storm coming Wednesday and I kind of need the Mule. Any thoughts from the experts? Thanks...pb Also sorry for the giant paragraph, when I hit the enter key nothing happens.

[o2batsea]

Honestly the VR is about the last place you would want to start looking for charging problems. Voltage readings are telling but not the actual thing that you are looking at. You really want to know amps. Amps will tell you whether the genny is charging and at what rate and whether the VR is actually cutting in and out. That said, be sure all your grounds are clean and tight, that your belt tension is good, and that the brushes on the genny aren't down to nubs. Also your battery must be healthy. If all those are good, then maybe start worrying about the VR.
Meantime, bring the battery indoors and put it on the charger over night.

[NC_Mule]

I've been chasing this problem for a few weeks. Started as "side of the road starter help" post. It was -11 at the time battery had 12ish volts but at that temp that's a dead battery. I replaced the heavy wires that feed my starter solenoid and the heavy wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter and cleaned the grounds thinking it was a connection problem. It seems to start fine till the sunsets, then the power consumed by the head lights catches up. A few days ago I had the system checked and it was charging at 13V. Generator was rebuilt with new brushes and cleaned up armature less then 10k miles ago.
So if the VR is bullet proof, which is what the manual seems to think.
What sort of amps should I see and where?
Nice, the enter key is working
pb

ps I've had the battery on a 2amp charger when possible...it cuts out as charged but I still end up with a dead battery if I drive at night

[o2batsea]

How old is the battery? Have you had it load tested? 13v seems awfully low. Should be more like 14.5

[NC_Mule]

It's a may be three years old, max. Haven't had it load tested. Guess my bigger problem now is why my red charge light on the dash came on after cleaning the VR. Going to go out now and poke around.
I didn't take notes but I feel like I had a recharge rate of 15-16V back after I got it started on the side of the road. Then yesterday it was 13, now it's 0. Going to go out now with the manual, wiring diagram and multimeter. Will report back

[kenscs]

I know this is probably not a huge help, but I had the same problem a few years ago. Charge up the battery, starts, everything seems fine, until I run headlights at night. Red light on dash. Checked voltage regulator, etc, amps of charging we're a little low, but still alternator still had output. I ordered all the parts to rebuild alternator, but then realized I didn't have time, so ordered new one from RN. Swapped it out and have not had a problem since. At some point plan on going back and restoring original Lucas alternator. I assume you know the Luca advertising slogan? "Lucas Electronics, home before dark"


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[NC_Mule]

So I jumped D and F which are the two wires coming off the Generator. You stick a metal jumper between the two ends, neg side of volt meter on the metal jumper and then touch the positive lead of the multi meter to the generator body I get 22v at 1300 rpm.
Then to check the regulator it says to place a piece of paper between the cut out contacts. Volt meter on D (which is the feed from the generator) other 1/2 of volt meter on a good ground ( I used the braded ground cable at the battery)
Start engine, increase rpm till voltage till it remains constant....ie the regulator is controlling. 15.8-16.4 volts is what you should see. I ran the rpm up to 2,000 and the meter stayed on 0 v.

This is funny "If the regulating voltage is not correct, the vehicle should be examined by a qualified electrician" haha thanks for the tip.

Any of this info spark any ideas? Besides a 10si or 12si conversion.....that's in the works just trying to get this thing ready for the snow so I don't have to shovel the driveway.

Thanks pb

[NC_Mule]

Do you test amps like you do volts? Red on wire and ground the black?Just turn the meter to amps? I need to look at my meter manual when I get home.



Honestly the VR is about the last place you would want to start looking for charging problems. Voltage readings are telling but not the actual thing that you are looking at. You really want to know amps. Amps will tell you whether the genny is charging and at what rate and whether the VR is actually cutting in and out. That said, be sure all your grounds are clean and tight, that your belt tension is good, and that the brushes on the genny aren't down to nubs. Also your battery must be healthy. If all those are good, then maybe start worrying about the VR.
Meantime, bring the battery indoors and put it on the charger over night.

[kenscs]

Amps are different than volts to test. For Volts, you can just touch terminals (voltage is "pressure"). For amps you have to test the flow rate, or "volume" of electrons, so you have to get between the "flow". That means taking the wire off the positive terminal of the battery and putting the amp meter between battery wire and battery. Be careful. You need a meter that can handle the charging amps (probably 20 amps but I would check that, since you will blow your meter if it is too high). Also make sure you don't hit the starter button when you have the ammeter in line like this. This is all off the top of my head. If you are still having problems, let me know and I will look at actual wiring diagram, recommended charging amps, when the red light triggers, etc. I am a Ham Radio operator so I know the electronic side but not the car specific side.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[NC_Mule]

Amps are different than volts to test. For Volts, you can just touch terminals (voltage is "pressure"). For amps you have to test the flow rate, or "volume" of electrons, so you have to get between the "flow". That means taking the wire off the positive terminal of the battery and putting the amp meter between battery wire and battery. Be careful. You need a meter that can handle the charging amps (probably 20 amps but I would check that, since you will blow your meter if it is too high). Also make sure you don't hit the starter button when you have the ammeter in line like this. This is all off the top of my head. If you are still having problems, let me know and I will look at actual wiring diagram, recommended charging amps, when the red light triggers, etc. I am a Ham Radio operator so I know the electronic side but not the car specific side.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for volt/amps lesson, I need to expand my electrical knowledge base. Might start testing amps on lower rated circuits. My meter only goes to 10amps.
I've been playing with it a lot and I always seem to hit a dead end at the regulator. I hate not to solve a problem and if it was summer time and I could ride a motorcycle I would keep at it. I need to get the truck back on the road, I would like to add a winch and dual battery system down the road so I'm going to order a 10si today and get started on the mounting brackets. A few weeks ago I plugged in my 150amp Lincoln MIG welder and I've been making sparks on scrap metal. Brackets for my alternator will be a nice little welding project.

pb