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lighiche
03-07-2014, 05:14 AM
Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the sensuous curves out of fifty year old fiberboard?

I'm trying to rehab my complete set of IIA 109 elephant hide covered panels. A few panels are pretty wavy. Thinking about just soaking them and pressing them out flat while they dry. Any other thoughts?

stomper
03-07-2014, 05:43 AM
The only way to straighten fiberboard is to replace it. Preferably with something that won't warp and wave again next time. Remove the elephant hide, use the old fiberboard as a template, cut new 1/4 inch plywood sheets, marine varnish them a few times, and re-attach the elephant hide.

Some recommend using a hair dryer to soften the elephant hide material so it doesn't crack.

o2batsea
03-07-2014, 07:12 AM
1/4 ply is a little too thick. Probably better to get the 3mm marine okoume plywood if you go that way. My choice is to make new panels from a composite of paperboard facing (grocery bags, actually) with glass cloth sandwiched in between. This I will vacuum bag on a nice flat formica surface.
If you want a panel that will never rot or warp, I'd do 1/8" Core-Cell (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=50957&familyName=Core-Cell+A500+Plain+Foam+Sheets) sheet with a layer of cloth on each side.
If that all seems too much mess or bother, then you can't go too far wrong with 1/8" ally sheet. Line the back with Dynamat.

SafeAirOne
03-07-2014, 07:28 AM
If that all seems too much mess or bother, then you can't go too far wrong with 1/8" ally sheet. Line the back with Dynamat.

I've always thought that if I cared about door cards, I'd do just that--Get a piece of .125" 6061 or 5052 and cut it to shape then, if I REALLY cared about them, glue the vinyl sheet to the front side and a large piece of 1" thick closed-cell foam (the pink or light blue stuff) to the back side for insulation/sound deadening.

But, I don't care that much about it--all my warped, broken door cards are just removed.

o2batsea
03-07-2014, 08:31 AM
The original de luxe interior door cards had the vinyl backed with cotton batting. Renewing them, you should use the polyester batting as it won't compress as much. Mist some 3M 77 onto the panel and gently press the batting to the adhesive. Then the vinyl goes on. The advantage of using a fiber panel is that the vinyl can be stapled in place with Arrow Monel #504M1 1/4" staples.
They also used contact cement extensively for the armrests and the upper panel that attaches to the door top as they were sheet aluminum backed.

printjunky
03-07-2014, 09:44 AM
In my case, I want to care. But just can't. If for no other reason, it is extremely unlikely to make it very far from the bottom of the Rover Priority list. Still, I've designed a few versions in my head.

lighiche
03-07-2014, 06:20 PM
Guess I'll live with warped for a while longer...

SafeAirOne
03-07-2014, 08:09 PM
Guess I'll live with warped for a while longer...

If you replace the fiberboard with more fiberboard or un-warp the fiberboard you have, you'll be living with the warp eternally, IMO.

lighiche
03-08-2014, 06:07 AM
Any suggestions for removing the elephant hide from the panels? For releasing the contact cement? Much of it has peeled, but much hasn't. I don't want to tear the hide...

lighiche
03-10-2014, 11:05 AM
If you replace the fiberboard with more fiberboard or un-warp the fiberboard you have, you'll be living with the warp eternally, IMO.

I am learning to love warp.