NickDawson
03-22-2014, 06:51 PM
Hello old friends!
It's been some time since I've been here. I've missed you all! :)
My III has been garaged for about a year, with a few occasional outings, while I moved and got resettled.
I'm tackling old issues, and trying to get it back on the road. One of the most concerning problems is a sharp pull to the left when I apply the brakes. We've long held that the adjusters needed to be fine tuned, but one of them was stripped out.
So, today, I set out to replace the front adjusters. My Rover is an 88 but has a 109 front end. I've got the Proline adjuster kit and am well into replacing the front right adjusters.
I'm at that familiar point where I need some of your collective expertise.
Adjusters:
The old adjusters seem to be some kind of factory installed part. Or at least we couldn't determine how to remove them. When the shoes were removed, and the rear nut was turned the main post also turned. In other words, there was nothing to unscrew, it simply spun in place. So we cut them out and knocked out the old nuts. No biggie, right?
The new adjusters have a hollow nut, washer, shallow sleeve, spring, cam and small nut. Here's how we fit them:
large hollow nut --> washer --> [wheel] --> sleeve -->spring--> cam --> small nut
Is that correct?
With the shoes off, and nothing holding the cylinders in place, does it make sense that pumping the brakes pushes fluid and ultimately the pistons out of the cylinders? Or do I have a failed cylinder?
Shoes:
ok, whats the trick? Why is this the world's most frustrating process? Every time I've replace wheel cylinders I fight getting the shoes back on. Tonight was no exception. Spring first, then position the small tab into the cylinder and then pry, bang, snap, yell, ugh, and repeat to get the pivot tab into the rear of the other cylinder. Whats the trick?
Adjusting:
Here's the rub - literally. Now that I have everything back together, there is a slight rub. The wheel and drum spin well, but you can hear some rubbing. It won't make a full 360 rotation, but I'm not sure the working (other) side will either. How's it done?
I cranked the adjuster down, and then backed off (roughly) two clicks, per the Green Bible. Anything else I should do?
Misc:
the shallow, 1" slotted pan head screws that hold the drums to the wheel....One of mine stripped out. Nightmare to get it off, but its done. I can fix by hacksawing a slightly deeper slot. But what's the trick? They are so shallow to start with. Does one night tighten them much?
When I took the drum off, there was a noticeable deposit of grease inside the drum. Not fluid, but grease. What on earth could I have greased a year ago that would bleed into the drum and shoes? If I clean it up, is it a concern?
9531
Whew! That's my list of issues and questions. Any insights?
It's been some time since I've been here. I've missed you all! :)
My III has been garaged for about a year, with a few occasional outings, while I moved and got resettled.
I'm tackling old issues, and trying to get it back on the road. One of the most concerning problems is a sharp pull to the left when I apply the brakes. We've long held that the adjusters needed to be fine tuned, but one of them was stripped out.
So, today, I set out to replace the front adjusters. My Rover is an 88 but has a 109 front end. I've got the Proline adjuster kit and am well into replacing the front right adjusters.
I'm at that familiar point where I need some of your collective expertise.
Adjusters:
The old adjusters seem to be some kind of factory installed part. Or at least we couldn't determine how to remove them. When the shoes were removed, and the rear nut was turned the main post also turned. In other words, there was nothing to unscrew, it simply spun in place. So we cut them out and knocked out the old nuts. No biggie, right?
The new adjusters have a hollow nut, washer, shallow sleeve, spring, cam and small nut. Here's how we fit them:
large hollow nut --> washer --> [wheel] --> sleeve -->spring--> cam --> small nut
Is that correct?
With the shoes off, and nothing holding the cylinders in place, does it make sense that pumping the brakes pushes fluid and ultimately the pistons out of the cylinders? Or do I have a failed cylinder?
Shoes:
ok, whats the trick? Why is this the world's most frustrating process? Every time I've replace wheel cylinders I fight getting the shoes back on. Tonight was no exception. Spring first, then position the small tab into the cylinder and then pry, bang, snap, yell, ugh, and repeat to get the pivot tab into the rear of the other cylinder. Whats the trick?
Adjusting:
Here's the rub - literally. Now that I have everything back together, there is a slight rub. The wheel and drum spin well, but you can hear some rubbing. It won't make a full 360 rotation, but I'm not sure the working (other) side will either. How's it done?
I cranked the adjuster down, and then backed off (roughly) two clicks, per the Green Bible. Anything else I should do?
Misc:
the shallow, 1" slotted pan head screws that hold the drums to the wheel....One of mine stripped out. Nightmare to get it off, but its done. I can fix by hacksawing a slightly deeper slot. But what's the trick? They are so shallow to start with. Does one night tighten them much?
When I took the drum off, there was a noticeable deposit of grease inside the drum. Not fluid, but grease. What on earth could I have greased a year ago that would bleed into the drum and shoes? If I clean it up, is it a concern?
9531
Whew! That's my list of issues and questions. Any insights?