Sealing up axles

[printjunky]

I'm finally losing an embarrassing amount of 90wt, and it's time to seal all four axles back up. I will not have enough cash to replace the balls (may try the fill & coat method if they're very pitted). And I'm not sure if I need new bearings, yet. note that this is my daily driver and (pretty much) sole vehicle. And this is part of an already in-progress "Spring Spruceup" that includes front parabolics (rears last fall), spin-on filter conversion, new seats, cage fabrication, bikini top/fume curtain fabrication, rear seat recovering, and some sound/heat insulation work. Oh, and a flywheel swap is in the not-to-distant future (racked off a couple of teeth over the winter, by hitting the starter before the engine fully wound down).

Question 1: On the front axle, how do I determine if I have to do the pins? It's not a ton more to do them, but as you can imagine, given the above list, the Rover budget is already very stretched.

Question 2: The bearings have some telltale play at the tire, but will they certainly need to be replaced, or if they are not damaged, can I likely just adjust the float with the inner adjusting nut and repack?

Question 3: Any other advice/things to look for in particular during this procedure?

Thanks,
Shawn

[cedryck]

Well, I know if you have excess wheel movement you can adjust the nut and at the same time inspect the bearings, and race. If they are fine, you might clean, and refit, adjusting the nut so there is no play. The green bible I believe has a good description of this. cheers.

[LaneRover]

Have you checked to make sure that your breathers aren't blocked? That can force the oil out.

Question #1) I can't help ya

Question #2) You can tighten the bearings up using the inner nut - don't go too tight.

[bobzinak]

Question #1 there are four bolts on the top of the swivel pin, (lockers too I believe) you use a small pull scale (like the ones you weigh fish with or luggage) you must remove ball joints form the swivel, s sharp rap with two hammers on either side if the ball joints usually does it. scale is placed in the ball joint hole and pulled to determine preload resitance. beneath the four bolts holding the pin in are a set of different thickness shims that are added or removed to preload the swivel pin. jacking up the front wheel you can shake the tire and see if you have sidr to side slack in the bearings, or top to bottom to check swivel pin tightness.. do the wheel bearings first. you could put in the swivel pin grease that is used on the defenders, much thicker than 90 wt. although if you have freewheel hubs you will have to make sure you run with the hubs turned once in awhile to make sure the keep lubed up. not hard to do any of this. just take you time. green bible is a good reference, but not as complete as the older white cover manuals (two parts/ engines/ tranny-part two everything else. much more of an idiots guide than the green bible, which like alot of the hayes (sp) manuals which assume that you are reasonalby proficent at auto repair. before you do the wheel bearings make sure you get the locker washers for the wheel bearing axle nuts (a hub bolt socket is a godsend when trying to tighten them, many have used a chisel to set bolts, not good.) you can remove the whole swivel pin brake drum assembly by removing the stub axle fixings be careful pulling out with axle attatche, but you really need a whitworth wrench to hold bolts well. there is a seal insde axle housing (difficult to replace) if you do that it is easier to replace swivel housing big seal. best of luck..dirty job but not esspecially difficult..bobzinak..ROVE ON...