Motor stalls on first crank, then runs beautifully

[jbaxleyiii]

Hey guys!

I've got a '72 series III 109 that I've had since october of last year. Its been running fantastically up until about two months ago. Ever since then, when I go to crank the truck, it fires right up then immediately shuts off. Then when I go to crank it again, it turns and turns and turns then (typically with the help of a pressing of the gas pedal) it fires back up again. After that I have no issues until the next time I go to crank it which does the same thing. Anyone have any thoughts?

I'm relatively new to the mechanic world, having only ever worked on farm tractors.

[parrie]

Sounds like a fuel issue...most likely fires-up w/ fuel that's left in the carb bowl then runs-out of fuel before the pump can get fuel flowing back to the carb. I'm fairly new to the series Rovers as well and don't claim to be a mechanic but my first order of business would be to inspect the fuel system for leaks. I'm assuming that you have the mechanical fuel pump w/ the glass bowl??? Any crap built up in there? Stay tuned...I'm sure someone w/ more knowledge than I will chime in.

[bugeye88]

How long it sits between use may be the issue as the fuel in the bowel evaporates or the line from the fuel filter drains leaving air in line. If you check for any line leaks and check the fuel pump itself (it may have a diaphragm leak in the pump) then I would add a low pressure electric pump after the mechanical pump to fill the float bowel of the carb and it should fire right up, no matter how long it sits. Saves wear and tear on the starter and Battery. I put a on/off switch in the cab for the pump so I can turn it off after starting. This set up also helps starts when hot that are due to vapor lock. This subject has been discussed here before and should have threads that may help.

Cheers,
Rob
Bugeye88

[2roverlabs]

What electric pump did you install? Got a picture of the set up?

I experienced the same issue as JBAXleyiii. Needed to replace the bowl and a carb replacement kit. Like the idea of an electric pump as my Series iii will sit for 2+ months between visits to the cabin.

[bugeye88]

I used a facet solid state fuel pump. I've had good luck with these for years, although there are many other pumps that can work. Place the pump after the mechanical pump so that if the mechanical pump develops a leak in the diaphragm the pump will not force fuel into the sump. Also place a small in-line fuel filter after the electric pump for one more level of fuel filtering. The pump should be low pressure. I have the on/off switch under the dash on the left.

Cheers.
Rob
Bugeye88

[bugeye88]

Labs,

Here is a pic of the pump and fuel line going to the carb. I have it mounted to where the oil bath air cleaner used to be. (I am using a K+N now). You can mount it anywhere in engine bay though.

Rob

[2roverlabs]

I'm going with this Facet pump: Facet Fuel Pump, 15 Gallon/Hr @ 1psi, 1/8 NPT. Maximum fuel delivery 28 gallons per hour. Maximum pressure 2.5 to 4.5 psi. Typical flow 15 gallons per hour at 1 psi. 1/8 NPT female ports. For moderate fuel requirements of engines up to about 150 horsepower. Sound right?

Also, which brand of line fuel filter?

Easier for me to trust the choices of guys who have been down the path than make rookie mistakes. Have body work experience and now just getting my hands dirty with mechanicals

[o2batsea]

You might want to check for a stuck needle valve in the carb. Zero buck fix if that's all it is.

[2roverlabs]

bugeye88 -

Got any photos of the "connections" - to power, to fuse, to switch?

Trying to replicate your set up. Photos are a big help to us "visual" learners....aka the slow kids

[bugeye88]

Roverlabs,

The pump is connected directly to a push button on/off switch in the cab. That switch is connected to a power source that is on only when the ignition is on. So only one wire to the dash area is necessary. Wiring is most easily accessed by removing the gauges panel and accessing the wiring. It can be a bit of a rat's nest of wires there, so a volt meter is handy to determine which wire coming off the ignition switch is hot when the switch is on. A good ground is necessary from the pump to a ground in the engine bay. The switch is on the left side of the driver, on the lip under the dash. On my truck there was a hole to mount the switch in that area. Once installed the switch can be reached easily from the drivers left hand. I switch it on to start or if it is a hot day, then usually switch it off while running, but it can be just left on. Oh, the fuel filer is just a generic in line filter between the pump and the carb. The fuel line into the facet pump comes after the stock fuel pump/filter.

Cheers,
Rob,
Bugeye88