Gas Tank repair/replacement for Series II FFR/MOD

[caperover]

So I've got a 66 Series II FFR 88 - a 24 volt wonder with D cell width cables snaking all over the place. Since one fuel tank was leaking and sucking air - I emptied it and dropped it out. A wonderful collection of rust flakes held together by undercoat, verdigris intake pipe with the bottom inch rotted off, a frozen fuel sender with a float full of fuel - and more. There's some holes where the tank side abutted the chassis and evidence of some prior holes being welded up. The metal looks pretty thin.

So what are my options?

I can:
A - try to clean and etch the tank with Phosphoric acid cleaner, patch the holes with epoxy, seal the tank
B - I don't seem to be able to find a replacement MOD tank (our host told me they don't any) - any contacts for someone who can weld up a new one? Anyone got dimensional drawings?
C - Anyone installed a regular external fill tank in a MOD 88? Any issues with dancing around the FFR cables? or other surprises?

Many thanks

[cedryck]

If the tank is that far gone, just replace with something that will hold fuel and not leak, might try measuring up a civilian and seeing if it will bolt in.

[o2batsea]

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?3767-Feeler-More-Aluminum-Tanks

[SafeAirOne]

So what are my options?

I can:
A - try to clean and etch the tank with Phosphoric acid cleaner, patch the holes with epoxy, seal the tank

I wouldn't bother. You're just temporarily postponing your troubles.


B - I don't seem to be able to find a replacement MOD tank (our host told me they don't any) - any contacts for someone who can weld up a new one? Anyone got dimensional drawings?

Your old tank has the dimensions. All you need to do is the drawing part. Any fabricator can weld one up. The trick is to get it done in a material that won't corrode and won't require a second mortgage on your house.


Anyhow...I didn't want to take any of the fun away from you, so here's a sketch I made of the fuel tank that you can use to write down your measurements and bring to your local stainless or aluminum fabricator to have a tank made for you. If you need a recommendation on an aluminum fabricator, PM me. Expect something custom-made like that to cost about $500 in aluminum.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3739/14105144869_a8ca967b29_b.jpg

If you need an unused, 4-inch bolt-on filler neck and vented cap, I've got one left over from some tanks I had made. It costs $45.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/14105229248_0798f9dc75.jpg

[caperover]

I followed the thread that O2Batsea posted about the tank build you coordinated - interesting read.
I assume you used BoydWelding in Ocala Fla as the fabricator. Those tanks look like they're good for the next century.

I was wondering if it would be an easy alternate to use a cheaper new side fill tank
from Rovers North -and install your top fill cap and remove the side fill intake. Will have to check clearances between height of tank and cap and the locker cover.

[cedryck]

I am guessing a handmade tank out of stainless, or another material is going to cost as much as a replacement oem military style tank. Just guessing,,

[SafeAirOne]

I was wondering if it would be an easy alternate to use a cheaper new side fill tank
from Rovers North -and install your top fill cap and remove the side fill intake. Will have to check clearances between height of tank and cap and the locker cover.

That's easily do-able. Make sure you do your homework on those replacement tanks before you spend your money.

I can measure the height of the neck/cap assembly when I get home later. Lowering a tank is easy. It's just a matter of adding a spacer between each tank mount and the chassis mount.

[SafeAirOne]

A little more than halfway down this page on Ike's site, you'll find some reasonably-priced options: http://www.pangolin4x4.com/series-land-rover-parts-products/cooling-exhaust-fuel/#cc-m-product-6503672952

[cedryck]

Yes there is a used military tank with cap,