Left rear tire will not move..

[clearcut]

Had to tow it home.

This is a 1967 Nada. The records I have on it, show no work done on either front end and rear end gears

Would you rebuild?

Would you replace?

Any direction would be great.



Thanks

josh

[darbsclt]

Man Clearcut... you're having some bad luck today!

Are you sure you don't simply have a seized brake drum?
Anyway, I'd check all the drums throughly first.

Nice looking 109, BTW. If it's the one I'm thinking of... it was heading to auction.
Is that where you picked it up?

[bugeye88]

Clear cut,

Sounds like a planetary gear failure in the diff. Did you spin a wheel and then have it grip or something like that? Also could be a axel failure that had some scrapnel get lodged in the diff. Plan on pulling the diff/axels for a look.

Rob
Bugeye88

[clearcut]

Yes was the one at auction. Bought from that buyer. Just drove it 160 miles on friday. I have taken all the extra stuff off it
It still has the battery charger. Those extra lights, in steel boxes. Took out all the extra in the back.

25 gallons of water coolers, refer, and freezer too.

It has a 40 amp 12V amp, still have to find what it does..

One heavy steel box, two sets of tire chains never used

Compas, fans on dash, could not even see speedo...

Does have a over drive unit

josh

[clearcut]

Yes, I have drive from hell.... Back up this am, cold start..

Motor was stalling out..

I was easy at first.

Move more forward, gave have move power, then heard wheel spin.. Drove ok for a 1/4 mile.. Took time to get home

slowed down. start it up for a few forward the backward. all was ok

Took for a drive, then I was done

Tow truck took a long time getting it on truck

Got it home.

Just drove it foward, went about 5 feet, then stopped.

Need to think about what next.

so would you rebuild diff, or just buy all new?

Would the front diff have the some issue

Just aged out?

thanks

[stomper]

Before you start considering replacing stuff, pull it apart and see what you have wrong. Could be a jammed brake shoe, a snapped axle bound up, or even a binding emergency brake for all we know.

[SafeAirOne]

Well, you can categorically rule out any planetary gear failures anywhere on a Series Rover:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECljAo1q1RQ


Just drove it foward, went about 5 feet, then stopped.

Need to think about what next.

so would you rebuild diff, or just buy all new?

Would the front diff have the some issue

What, in your description of the events you're experiencing, makes you believe that it is a bad diff?

Just take it ("IT" being the wheel, brakes and, if necessary, axle shaft, then hub) apart and figure out what's wrong. Nobody can tell you what's wrong with it or what you should do about it through the internet. It's the sort of thing where you have to be there in person with a wrench in your hand.

[SafeAirOne]

Just drove it foward, went about 5 feet, then stopped.

What does this mean? Did it stop moving forward and bog down the engine, like it was being restrained or was everything otherwise hunky-dory?--engine ticking along or revving away as if there was no load on it?

Was the left rear wheel scorching-hot immediately after this happened?

[SafeAirOne]

BTW: A failure of a differential component is much more likely to result in no power to either wheel as opposed to one wheel locking while the other is powered. Not always--there are a few uncommon failures that could enable one wheel to still be powered, I suppose, but to have one powered and the other locked up as a result of a differential failure is pretty low on the list possibilities, if you ask me.

My attention would be on:

1) brakes
2) wheel bearings
3) axle shaft
4) differential

...in that order.

Of course, once you have the brake drum off, your problem will become ultra-easy to figure out.

[bugeye88]

The give away here was that the "wheel spin" part of your description. The two weakest components of the drive system are the axles and the 2 planetary diff. Both of these are loaded to excess with wheel spin followed by wheel making contact. So axel or diff take your pick, you'll have to get in,there to find out which it is. Best of luck and let us know what you find.

Cheers,
Rob
Bugeye88

[clearcut]

Here is the first update.

Looks like the transfer case ran dry.. Metal came out of with very little oil.. There was oil like film on underside and back windows


May need a whole new one.

Where would you find one if you needed one.

thanks

[darbsclt]

Parts for the T-case are available through this forum's host...

If you are looking for a replacement - THESE (http://forbynbros.com/replacement-transfer-cases/) are the nicest I've seen - with a price to match (though I have no experience with them).

[bugeye88]

Clearcut,

Wow, metal particles and very little oil! A testament to checking and keeping fluid levels up, these things leak. Hope that is the only low oil area, good time to check them all. A new transfer case is certainly in order.

Rob
Bugeye88

[I Leak Oil]

So let me get this straight. The transfer case is junk and only the left rear tire won't move?

[SafeAirOne]

So let me get this straight. The transfer case is junk and only the left rear tire won't move?

Thanks. I didn't want to be the first one to point out that this "cause" doesn't fit the symptoms described.

[darbsclt]

^^ Ditto ^^

Perhaps there was several unfortunate "sequential" failures... but that still wouldn't, necessarily explain the cause/symptom suggested here. I've pulled up a chair & have popcorn on the stove...

Note: From what I remember, this was not a cheap vehicle. One would have thought (from the seller's glowing description anyway) that any pending issues were sorted.

[SafeAirOne]

With the left rear wheel raised up off the ground, the other wheels chocked and the transfer case in neutral, can you get the rear wheel to stick again by pumping the brakes for 5-ish minutes (to simulate the amount of braking you did when this occurred the first time)?

What did you find when you removed the left rear brake drum the other day?

How did the hub feel when you spun it with the brake drum off?

Again I ask:


Just drove it foward, went about 5 feet, then stopped.

What does this mean? Did it stop moving forward and bog down the engine, like it was being restrained or was everything otherwise hunky-dory?--engine ticking along or revving away as if there was no load on it?

Was the left rear wheel (or ANY wheels, really) scorching-hot immediately after this happened?

[clearcut]

The transfer case lock up due to no oil. I need to replace case. Checking over drive unit of metal, some may have got into it. May need to repair or replace.

Brakes and rear end all are good for now

thanks

josh

[bugeye88]

If your overdrive is like mine, they have separate oil reservoirs. The overdrive oil capacity is considerably less than the transfer case, so it should be checked regularly. Remember to check all the stuff that holds 90 wt underneath as it appears the previous owner did not. Oh, I got a chance to look at the transfer case darbsclt described and its a beauty! If a bit dear, $$$$.

Bugeye88

[Les Parker]

I wonder if this has the Powerlok rear diff fitted to the NADA 6 cylinder's in 1967. It locking up would cause one of the rear wheels to lock.
Could be 2 systems have failed here !
RN has rebuit transfer boxes from time to time, or a whole new Gearbox/Transfer box # RNC637.

[TeriAnn]

I wonder if this has the Powerlok rear diff fitted to the NADA 6 cylinder's in 1967. It locking up would cause one of the rear wheels to lock.
Could be 2 systems have failed here !
RN has rebuit transfer boxes from time to time, or a whole new Gearbox/Transfer box # RNC637.


If the transfercase went dry and disintegrated I recommend replacing the unit and not rebuild it. My truck came to me for $350 because it had miles on a dry rear diff and a dry transfercase. I rebuilt the transfercase with all new bearings and seals. The transfercase screamed afterwords. I finally replaced the transfercase just so I could hear the person yelling next to me. Junk the old one & install a fresh rebuild.

Be sure to replace fluids everywhere else as well just so you have a better idea of what you have.

Also the drive flange is on with 6 bolts (28 foot pounds). It only takes a couple minutes to remove the 6 bolts then withdraw the axle. Then you can see if the wheel spins OK without strange crunching noises. If the wheel spins OK, pull the other axle then the diff.

Who knows maybe your truck is like mine was, a dry rear diff and dry transfercase.

[clearcut]

My rover is a 6, not 4 cylinder... The writeup for this part states 4 cylinder.. Would it still work?
Also, could fit the landrover over drive to your replacement?

Car number 34300211

thanks

[clearcut]

I plan to replace it. Thank you for the heads up on this issue

josh

[SafeAirOne]

My rover is a 6, not 4 cylinder... The writeup for this part states 4 cylinder.. Would it still work?
Also, could fit the landrover over drive to your replacement?

Car number 34300211

thanks

The difference between a 4 cylinder and a 6 cylinder gearbox is that the bellhousing-to-engine studs and holes are clocked differently. It's a matter of swapping out of your old 6 cylinder bellhousing for the 4 cylinder bellhousing, presuming that the transmissions are otherwise the same (both SIII or both IIA, etc.).

Transfer cases are pretty much one-size-fits-all.

[clearcut]

Well here is the update

Pick the Rover up on Friday... It was the transfer CASE.. I had a not check the Oil, and that was bad

Found a used one, had it clean, adjusted, installed and I get the truck back Friday Thanks for all the help on this issue

[clearcut]

Just added a new transfer casew cover

Harder materail, and should help with heat build

Maybe the leaks, NOT.


10390

[SafeAirOne]

Nice.

Presumably a cover from Rocky Mountain?

[clearcut]

Not this one

from


http://roamerdrive.com/

josh

[SafeAirOne]

Ahh. I thought they were the same folks.

[Revtor]

And I see their dipstick has also been installed. Keep an eye on it!!! And every other fluid for that matter.

These things are meant to be checked every week or so, it's in their nature. The more you get involved with your truck the better they become.

~Steve