PDA

View Full Version : Paint Prep Suggestions



kenscs
09-19-2014, 03:21 PM
OK, so most all the major mechanical work is finalize on my truck after 2 years of restoration. Now, on to the esthetics. As the attached photo shows, the truck has quite a few paint layers on it. It was Ex-MOD Ambulance. The first layer looks to be a aluminum conversion coat, the second a primer, the third a bright red (maybe Masai), the fourth a Dark Green and lastly, the real potential problem, a layer of latex house paint. The PO was a house painter and created a camo scheme using latex house paint he had left over. Actually pretty cool. But now, I was thinking of redoing with one of original LR colors (Mid Grey or Marine Blue).

I was thinking the original conversion coating, primer and factor red are actually valuable protective layers, that if I could preserve them, would be better than stripping to base aluminum and starting over. I experimented with using a latex paint stripper and it worked pretty well at getting me down to the original paint layers only. I would then just have to sand or soda blast a bit and recoat.

Does anyone have experience or opinion on whether I should just take it down to aluminum and start all over or try and work with keeping original factory paint layers. I dont need a showroom finish. Just a decent, quality look.

10194

canyonero
09-23-2014, 09:00 PM
I have an EX-MOD that I tried to hand sand and re-paint, leaving the coats that were there, figuring that what did not come off was not going to. And it hasn't. I used Interlux paint, which is designed for boats, and the undercoating has stayed everywhere except where I sanded down to bare aluminum, where it is now flaking. They say most time should be spent on the preparation, and this is no exception. I would have liked to soda blasted the whole body, then used self-etching primer, but I heard about the soda dust getting into every electrical component you could imagine, plus it seemed pricey. The initial look had a good 10-footer feel, but despite rolling and tipping the paint, it still has random orange peeling and I need to touch it up after only 2 years. Decide on a good base coat, and I think that could make all the difference, because there are some parts on mine that look really good, and some that need a lot of attention.
Hope it helps.

eagle597
09-28-2014, 06:12 PM
I was thinking of using Interlux paint also, but your statement about flaking paint in the bare spots worries me. What type of prep and primer did you use? bare alumimum, scuffed, alodine wash, then primer? What type? PreKote? I've soda blasted some sections and am getting ready to start, but haven't purchased the paint. Might save me some trouble if I know what you did.

o2batsea
09-29-2014, 07:43 AM
I'm a big fan of Interlux paint and use it on my boats, but I wouldn't use it to paint my Rover. I'd recommend DuPont Nason auto paints. It mixes easily and flows beautifully for the DIY home painter. Plus they can mix your exact color. Prep is the key and lots of sanding followed by tack cloth, solvent wipes, and blow off with clean filtered air will make applying the paint go much better. A clean dust free work area and scrupulous cleanliness are the key. In about 6 months you can color sand with 1500 wet paper and then buff to a wicked high gloss.

jac04
09-30-2014, 02:36 PM
I found that CitriStrip removed the multiple layers of military paint while leaving the original factory paint intact. If you are careful to just use stiff brushes during stripping (and no scrapers), you will end up with almost no damage to the factory paint.

kenscs
10-07-2014, 02:32 PM
Thanks all for the help. I know this may be impossible to achieve, but I actually don't want a "shiny new old Rover". I actually love the old patina of Rovers that have been in the sun for years. If you google the Bob Marley Land Rover Series Restoration, I actually would love the paint to look a bit chalky like that. My guess is I will take it down best I can, prime and then paint and see what she looks like.

I didn't realize the factory delivered the vehicles in a "factory" paint colors and then they camouflage painted them after. But now that you say it, it makes total sense.

A friend who's father ran a collision shop sent me this link for easy home painting:

https://www.duplicolor.com/products/psFinishSystem/

In London this week for work. Lots of shiny new Defenders rolling around Mayfair!

BTW, I know the obvious solution would be to sell this truck and buy another one with the correct faded paint scheme. However, I have put so much sweat equity in this truck getting the systems all in excellent working order, that I don't know if I could go through it all over again!