Need new door tops.

[tomster10]

In an attempt to take off my door tops this weekend I broke a stud. It was incredibly rusty so I imagine the remaining one is as well. My glass is still good so I would like to buy the $90 tops sold here. My question is do they come ready to install glass or would I need to also buy fittings? If they don't come ready to go: would I be better off getting the $200 tops? I guess I should also ask if there is another source I should look at. Thanks

[SafeAirOne]

If your window tracks are still acceptable to you, you should just be able to swap it all over to a new doortop frame.

Out of curiosity, was (is) the stud permanently rusted into the tube in the door bottom? They can be near-impossible to remove in situations like that.

[tomster10]

Thanks for the info. Neither the stud that broke nor the one that is still affixed were rusted to the tube. It is just the studs themselves, the one that broke, broke in the door top with minimal force.

[Jim-ME]

Do yourself and your Rover a big favor and buy Rocky Mountain door tops. you will never regret it.
Jim

[TedW]

Do yourself and your Rover a big favor and buy Rocky Mountain door tops. you will never regret it.
Jim

A big x2! They are terrific.

[mearstrae]

Those are the door tops I'm using, no regrets about getting them... I also have the Defender bags for storing them when they're off for the summer.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[rwollschlager]

Rocky Mountain is the way to go. Everything else is a waste of time.

[tomster10]

Rocky Mountain it is then. Thanks

[Jim-ME]

You will not be sorry
Jim

[luckyjoe]

Only other option is the genuine LR defender doortops (used on factory softtops and military D's). They have aluminum frames, removable (M10) studs, and dual sliding glass with an angled cut rear pane (opens furhter forward). You can also get SS studs for them, eliminating the rust issue for the foreseeable future...

[Winstonsalemseries3]

I have running into very similar issues getting my windows off for the summer. I broke one stud off last night and I am waiting on the PB Blaster to loosen another stud.

I don't seem to be able to get the door top off either and I am nervous about damaging the door.
Is the window top stud sticking in the door bottom shaft, or are the top and bottom stuck together at the seal or both?

Any tips on getting the two halves apart with out damaging them? Can I tap on the studs with a hammer?

[jimrr]

a generous coat of copper coat anti seize helps a lot.

[Winstonsalemseries3]

I guess they forgot the anti seize at the factory. 😉. I was able to remove 2 bolts from each door and cut the seals with a razor knife. Could there be anything else holding the door on?

[vlad_d]

This place has good deals on door tops, as low as 48 pounds($68 US). I think they are Galvanized with aluminum skin. Shipping is getting to be almost the same these days from UK as across The States, except for bulky items. So, it might be worth it.
www.sp-4x4.com

I'm having a love affair with stainless steel hardware these days. I'm on a mission to replace all rusted hardware with stainless on my Series, so stuff like this doesn't happen again. I would suggest you try to replace whatever posts are in any door top with like stainless threaded rod. I just put new nuts on mine, and had to use the thread gauge on it to get the size. Mine are 7/16" UNF (24 pitch), if that helps. Not sure the length, but you could buy it long and cut to fit. Been getting Stainless hardware on Amazon. 1/8th the price of my local hardware store. I like to support local, but come on Ace, $30 for 6 odd bolts?!

Anyway, I imagine aluminum skin, Galvanized steel frame and stainless post rods would make for an indestructible door top. Just paint it all so those different metals don't react to each other.

[jimrr]

I have to put my hand up against the glass when I close the drivers door or the glass may fall out. The door top is so loose you can put your palm between the door top and the cab. on the pass. side I have a piece of pexiglass in there with gorilla tape which comes undone every few days. In the Summer I generally take the top off and replace it with a slick aluminum frame and marine top I had a local shop make. it works and looks great (right out of africa!) but needs a coat of waterproof treatment and it's so wet this spring It may not go on for a while.
the last time the glass fell out (yesterday) I thought of the helpful posting which I looked up ..... $204 for a new door top. I plan on putting this in the shop for a major re-do (I've done one about 20 years ago) but i already have a spare hard top and the sides so I could accumulate a set of rebuildable tops were I to buy the ones shown. nothing money won't fix for sure!

[jimrr]

This place has good deals on door tops, as low as 48 pounds($68 US). I think they are Galvanized with aluminum skin. Shipping is getting to be almost the same these days from UK as across The States, except for bulky items. So, it might be worth it.
www.sp-4x4.com

I'm having a love affair with stainless steel hardware these days. I'm on a mission to replace all rusted hardware with stainless on my Series, so stuff like this doesn't happen again. I would suggest you try to replace whatever posts are in any door top with like stainless threaded rod. I just put new nuts on mine, and had to use the thread gauge on it to get the size. Mine are 7/16" UNF (24 pitch), if that helps. Not sure the length, but you could buy it long and cut to fit. Been getting Stainless hardware on Amazon. 1/8th the price of my local hardware store. I like to support local, but come on Ace, $30 for 6 odd bolts?!

Anyway, I imagine aluminum skin, Galvanized steel frame and stainless post rods would make for an indestructible door top. Just paint it all so those different metals don't react to each other.

you'll find the whitworth and american std. work but the pitch on the whitworth is different, after you sort thru a few 5 gallon buckets of bolts you'll be able to see the diff by looking! watch that stainless .......... stainless on stainless will seize (permanent) and you'll become a big fan of copper coat anti seize!