New Member 1974 Series III Frame Off Restore

[leavundst]

Hi Guys, Feel free to yell at me if I should not be posting this here. I'm hoping I can leverage the thread as both a record for my self, a way to gather help, and maybe as a learning tool for others. Anyway

About 6 months ago I found a 1974 Series 3 LWB that looked fairly clean with possibly low mileage if owner was to be believed but frame damage. I thought the truck looked great so I brought her home. Here is how she sat at the owners home. She was parked for a few years.

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On the trailer for the trip home, about 700 mile drive....

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[leavundst]

The front fender was off because that's where the frame rusted through. I am by no means a mechanic, in fact I work in IT, but I do like wrenching and have family in the auto repair business as well as a friend with a pretty decent machine shop in his garage. I also did something similar before with with a CJ and decided to punish myself again but this time with something cooler. By the way here are my CJ before and after pics....

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http://images16.fotki.com/v382/photos/2/584422/13350921/IMG_20130817_165456-vi.jpg

But back to the Land Rover. With a little bit of help I managed to bring the rover to my uncles shop where I stripped the front to evaluate the frame damage. What seems to have happened is multiple accidents or maybe minor rust that was repaired with patches that were applied over patches. Basically the first two or so feet of the frame need to be replaced.

Partially ***** rover pic :-)
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Frame cracks:
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[leavundst]

Now I can do a little welding but this was way beyond my ability. Plus my daughter was just born and the wife had that "I'm going to kill you if you start spending your weekends in the shop" look in her eyes so I paid a pro welder to repair the front.

Here is a sample of the damage:
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The welder complained that the brackets for the leaf springs would be hard to cut so good friend to the rescue. This is a buddy nearby who made his own plasma cutting table...

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[SafeAirOne]

Nice basis for a refurbishment project--Nice, straight panels.

I'd recommend that you have your professional welder on retainer--The nature of the way these chassis' rust out from the inside and the condition of your front frame horn suggest that the rest of your chassis (at least the low points, anyhow) may be not be far behind, despite the good looking outer surfaces. This isn't ALWAYS true, but the odds are in my favor, if history holds true.

Good luck and always keep the restoration an enjoyable thing.

[leavundst]

New Brackets:

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$1400 dollars later frame repaired:

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I pulled the Rover home and actually got her to start up. Took her for a 10 min drive around the neighborhood. :-)

Here she is in front of my house:

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I want to eventually put a soft top on it so if anyone knows where I can buy or find plans to make one, and what if anything I can sell the old one for, I would be much obliged.

Also, I never actually heard it run. So last weekend I put the radiator back on and got her fired up. Even took a 10 min cruise around the neighborhood. Purs like a kitty but top speed seemed to be around 40mph.

Otherwise next steps are to pull the back of the cab and inspect the rest of the frame for damage, pull the engine and trans, clean up and paint both, sand/soda blast frame and body. Not sure if I want to try to sandblast my self or just farm it out.

More to follow soon :-)

[Finbar]

Looks like you're off to a good start.

If Mark is right you might consider starting with a new frame. Our hosts have one (http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=NRC4355G). Given what you spent on the front so far it may not be out of the question to go to a new frame if there is further frame trouble lurking in the future.

[leavundst]

Thanks guys, After spending the money to get the front fixed I will be really kicking my self in the ass if I end up replacing the frame but no point throwing more good money after bad. I hope to get the back off this weekend and will keep you guys posted.

[jac04]

If you are really going to do a "frame off restore", then it is best to do a complete assessment of the chassis before you go any further or spend any more $ on frame repairs. I completely understand that good work doesn't come cheap, but $1400 for just front horn repair was almost 1/2 way to a new galvanized chassis. I've done 3 frame-up restorations, and IMO a galvanized chassis is the only way to go.

[leavundst]

I'm back :-) Weather is getting nicer (well maybe not today in Chicago), I made some space in the garage and took the rover apart. Jac04 thanks for your input. I got the body off and so far the rest of the frame appears mostly ok but I will take the grinder to it to really evaluate it. I also upgraded my welder and compressor :-) . Please disregard the disaster of a garage. Slowly trying to clean it up in parallel.

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[o2batsea]

Um, front dumb irons available from our hosts:
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=CHAS11

Also from home market suppliers:
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/series/series-3/parts/chassis-and-outriggers/jc100r-dumb-iron-front-chassis-rh-1956-84-88-and-109.html

I suggest that you tap the hive mind before going off spending big money that you clearly don't have to. I mean, for $300 in parts and a half hour's worth of welder time you coulda had your chassis repaired and have a thousand bucks left in the bank.

Also, you don't want to go at the chassis with a grinder. You want to SOUND the chassis with a hammer to find areas of rust. In all likelihood you will find it's either good or a goner. Usually there's no in between. Unfortunately the rust is most likely inside the box tube where you cannot see it. Thus the hammer; by tapping you can hear rust come loose.

[leavundst]

Thanks for the advice! I will go ahead and check out the chassis with the hammer and try to milk the collective hive :-)