PDA

View Full Version : Mechanical Diagnosis



tomster10
10-26-2014, 07:42 PM
Ok so my Series III(aka Winston) has been suffering sporadically from an undetermined aliment since the day we became acquainted. That is why I have turned to this eclectic yet unified group. The issue is consistent in how it manifests itself just not when. It only occurs when driving over 30mph for an extended period of time. It doesn't happen every time those criteria are met, not even a majority of the time. When it started we couldn't figure out what was happening and just called it bucking. Now I have determined that the engine is ceasing to run and immediately restarting due to being in gear. Sometimes it happens once and is able to keep trucking. Other times, like yesterday, it totally renders forward progress impossible resulting in a tow. Yesterday was the worst by far. It was nearly impossible to start and when it would start it would rev high then die.
I know it is hard to give advise without seeing the truck, but I am new to world of working on a vehicle beyond changing oil. I would take it to a mechanic to be diagnosed if it weren't for my starving student status.
I really appreciate any opinions, advise, or referrals. Thanks

SafeAirOne
10-26-2014, 08:25 PM
Does the alternator (charge) lamp come on immediately, as soon as it dies?

Reason I ask is that It has been my experience that the SIII ignition switch has a service life of about 3 years. Then, three years and one day later, you'll be cruising down the road and your truck will turn itself off and on intermittently. When it does this, the charge lamp immediately illuminates, as if you've turned the key off, then back on without the engine started. At least that's how it manifests itself on my SIII.

I've since eliminated my crappy SIII ignition switch altogether.

darbsclt
10-27-2014, 07:43 AM
Some questions to help clarify the symptoms...

Is Winston running hot when this happens?...
Is there any backfire whilst the "bucking" occurs?...
Once restarted - would it rev high on it's own before dying... or did it die after you revved it?

I'm leaning to something electrical as well... although these symptoms overlap fuel & electrical issues.

When trying to resolve hot running issues I compounded the problem by installing a new Lucas sports coil - it produced similarly erratic symptoms once hot.

Couldn't hold an idle... intermittent engine failure... backfire/bucking when running... difficulty restarting... dying after revving...

After swapping back to the old coil - all was fixed. How old is your coil?... they do go bad & even new ones can't always be trusted.

Good luck...

tomster10
10-27-2014, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the input. I'm going to try to answer your questions.
I do not believe the charge lamp comes on. I could be wrong though. I generally depress the clutch and wait for the oil lamp to come on then release the clutch to restart the engine while moving.
There are no indications of him running above normal temperatures.
He has not backfired throughout his ordeal.
When he revs high it is on his own, that is a new symptom which happened for the first time Saturday.
I hope that answers your questions.
Thanks

o2batsea
10-27-2014, 01:04 PM
Classic symptom of ignition condensor (imminent) death. Try the simple stuff first, or as one sage person put it, look for horses not zebras.

tomster10
10-27-2014, 03:46 PM
I definitely like the price of a condenser vs a coil. Where is the condenser located?

mearstrae
10-27-2014, 09:59 PM
The little, one wire, can looking thing in the dizzy.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

lumpydog
10-28-2014, 04:52 AM
The condenser is part of the distributor assembly. Land Rover used several types of distributors - on some (Lucas) the condenser is inside the distributor housing. On others (Ducellier) the condenser is on the outside of the unit and more easily accessible.

cedryck
10-30-2014, 03:56 PM
Good advice lads, start simple. Love it.

SafeAirOne
10-30-2014, 04:37 PM
Good advice lads, start simple. Love it.

Yup. Replace the engine.

If that doesn't work, go for a new fuel system.

In the unlikely event that the problem hasn't been fixed by the previous 2 actions, it's probably time for an entirely new electrical system.

:D

Jim-ME
10-31-2014, 06:35 AM
Or a new Rover

80sailor
10-31-2014, 10:13 AM
I've had this issue several months back. It really likes to happen in 3rd gear under acceleration. My solve was new points, condenser and re-set the timing.

That said, I'm now going to replace the entire dizzy because the center shaft has a "wobble" in it due to age/wear. In fact I just ordered one with an electronic conversion. We'll see how that goes....

tomster10
10-31-2014, 11:23 AM
I've ordered a new condenser and am anxious to see how that goes. Thanks for the advise.

cedryck
10-31-2014, 02:36 PM
Replacing the distributor on Rover engines with higher miles can make a huge difference, they do get kind of loose and wobbly,,,

tomster10
11-03-2014, 01:23 PM
If I replace the ignition condenser will I need to adjust the timing or is it an attach and drive kind of deal? Thanks

mearstrae
11-03-2014, 04:59 PM
It's rather a plug-and-play sort of thing. But, it never hurts to verify your proper timing and dwell angle for the points.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

triumphtr7guy
11-03-2014, 07:51 PM
tomster, replacing the coil is no big deal, should be a phillips screw into the clamp piece, but wouldnt hurt to check the point gap while you are there.
Good luck, Bruce

tomster10
11-03-2014, 08:46 PM
Right on, Thanks