Floor panel sealing

[timeless]

I recently removed the floor panels in my 64' 88" to do some work in the transmission area. I'm trying to decide what I should I use, if anything, to seal the floor panels when I put them back. Strip caulk is one option but I was wondering what others use. Anyone know what the factory used if anything?

Thanks,
Ed

[cedryck]

any kind of body shop sealent, the rope works, as does the caulk,

[yorker]

Strip caulk, Dum Dum putty, monkey ****. All similar stuff people have used.

[lumpydog]

Our hosts sell window glazing. (http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=GT106&type=0&eq=&desc=GLAZING-SEAL-50-FOOT-ROLL) It works well for this purpose because it's already flat - comes in a ribbon format in rolls. When sandwiched, it won't expand unpredictably, squeezing out the edges and it won't leave the floor panel gaps higher in some places and lower in others.

[o2batsea]

I used the adhesive backed black foam weatherstrip from the hardware store. It compresses enough so that the panels fit perfectly. The foam fills all gaps and makes no mess for you. When it is time to renew it peels off fairly easily and the glue cleans up with mineral spirits.

[jac04]

I have used butyl window glazing, and I would not recommend it. It is too much of an adhesive and makes removing the panels difficult. Stick with the grey rope caulk or the 3M Strip Caulk.

[Revtor]

Mortite is a brand avail at the big HW stores. Enough on a roll to lay more in where you need it and do the job twice.
~Steve

[Just A Number]

I just finished this job on my landy. I used this stuff: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-flexible-strip-caulk-bk-2-lbs.html One box is enough to do the floor pans 4 times over.

[LaneRover]

Sealing? How does the water go out?

[yorker]

Sealing? How does the water go out?

You just turn it over. 10425

[printjunky]

I just use regular silicone caulk. Cheap, easy, had it around, and I'm likely to be in and out of there at least once a year for one thing or another. I would think, as Jac said, window glazing would be way too tenacious. A full round of that will mean a VERY difficult time next time you need in there. Even silicone made it rough (and because of that, I haven't even resealed yet). The gray rope might be good, though I've had it leave annoying residue after time (though so does silicone).

[lumpydog]

Silicone is a disaster. It's not reusable or easily removed. Once you break the original silicone seal (which will require a razor blade) it needs to be completely removed, cleaned and reapplied. Removing cured silicone is not fun - try it...

Window glazing works well in that it's easily removed and reapplied - it's basically flat 3M strip calk. A little persistent pressure breaks the seal. Cleanup/removal is simple - no tools, scraping or razor blades. It sticks to itself better than the surface it is applied to. Use a ball of window glazing to dab/remove it. It's already flat and flattens pretty evenly with tighteninging/compressing but doesn't ooze, drip or run like silicone but it's just as weather tight.

The gray rope stuff oxidizes, degrades and turns into a gum-like substance over time that is also a disaster to remove. If you're going to seal it once and never ever open it again. I still wouldn't recomend silicone. To boot, and this is important, many types of silicones attack aluminum (acetic acid) and trap moisture against aluminum. Do yourself a favor. Don't ever apply silicone to your rover.

Yep, I hate silicone.