Series 2a109 clutch I'll not engage

[greenrover]

I replaced clutch Mc and SC after having leak in MC. Now I can not get the clutch to engage in any gear. Rover on blocks and I can rotate engine by hand crank with shifter in gear and OD and transfer case in gear but no wheels spin. Same when engine running. Looked down through fill port on top of gear box behind shifter with engine running and shifter in gear but I do not see any gears moving .
No noise either except for the click as you go past indents of shifter. Like the clutch plate is completely gone.
Anyone ever come across this before?
Is there anyway to get my eyes on clutch plate without pulling transmission back like by removing an access panel?

[SafeAirOne]

Presuming it worked recently before this job, I'd ask myself:

Is the slave linkage properly adjusted?

Is the MC linkage properly adjusted?

I wouldn't bother looking at the clutch pressure plate at this point--You already know that it is in the disengaged position.

[greenrover]

Safeairone

Thanks for reply.

I started about 5 years ago so performance prior to maintenance is a little sketchy but I do recall having problems getting it into gear and I attributed it to lack of hydraulics.

I checked the MC and made minor adjustments but did not have any effect.

Struggling to get to the 2-7/8" adjustment on the Slave cylinder between top of mounting bracket and bottom of nut D? will try more tomorrow.

determined that there is an access port on top of bell housing underneath shift mount. Took photos of throw out bearing with pedal in (right photo) and out(left photo). Moves about 1" but notice that with foot off pedal there is about another 1/2" of shiny length of shaft still exposed. It looks like that used to get wiped when it was previously fully engaged but now something is stopping it from fully engaging. Right now with foot off pedal the operating lever is just about level with the floor. Wondering is that is normal or should it have a slight positive angle when the clutch is fully engaged? also how much travel should I see in the throw out bearing - more than 1"? perhaps my slave cylinder is hung up and will not allow full travel of the operating lever?


1048410485

[SafeAirOne]

I don't have one of these types of clutch systems, so don't quote me here, but I seem to recall that some clutch slaves had a spacer block between the slave and the mounting bracket and some didn't. If this is the case and your new slave requires a spacer block and doesn't have one, I imagine it might not be able to retract far enough to allow the clutch to fully engage once the slave is tightened onto the bracket.

Perhaps someone who knows more about the pre-SIII Rube Goldberg clutch contraption will chime in and either confirm or refute this.

The other option is that the clutch disk might just be stuck on the splines of the transmission input shaft after years of disuse.

[ignotus]

Sounds to me like something is not adjusted correctly, the hyd system is not allowing the pressure plate to fully return(engage). Do you have a manual? Every step in it needs to be correct from the pedal height to the length the slave pushrod extends, also there are 2 types of early slave cylinders set ups, open and closed housings. They have different set lengths. Then you could have the Series 3 style slave which is situated on the bellhousing below the starter? I'd start with going over every external set up and then re bleed the hyd system. You know it is trying to work as it moves but it is just not getting the full throw.

[cedryck]

1st, check for air in system, and good advice to check all of the adjustments, look at green book.

[Les Parker]

Also check the connecting tube that links the inside clutch mechanism to the outside part. The holes in this can become ovalled, the locating pins worn, giving too much movement in the system.

2p

[tkneese]

I've had the same issues with my 66 IIA... Replaced both MC and slave, bled and still wont disengage the clutch unless i pump the clutch pedal... I can start the engine with it in gear then let up the clutch and get going that way but it doesn't completely disengage.

When i installed the slave there was a spacer, but i didn't install it with the new slave since the newer didn't look like it needed it, but I did make sure the length of the nuts on the pushrod were the same as the original. Thoughts?