Defender Rear Bumper/Tow Bar on a Series III 109

[toga Rover]

Hs anyone tried to mate the rear bumper of a Defender to the rear crossmember of a series truck? Is it a straight bolt/weld up, or are there modifications involved?

id like to incorporate a class 3 hitch, and not loose any ground clearance in the process. I swapped out the motor for an Isuzu 4BD1T and a Dodge Ram 5-speed tranny, with Disco axles (4-wheel disc brakes), so I have more that enough umph to pull a trailer.


similar to this:
http://www.roverparts.com/product/img/img/TF883_LARGE.jpg


Thanks in Advance.

TogaRover

[LaneRover]

Though our hosts have some great hitches for series trucks, here is the one that I use.
http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/22
If you don't want to lose ground clearence have you looked at one of Ike's? http://www.pangolin4x4.com/land-rover-parts-products/accessories/#cc-m-product-6355339552
No welding or exchanging of rear cross members for either of these.

[toga Rover]

Hey LaneRover,

RN does offer some quality hitches, but theirs reduces clearance.

I saw Ike's hitch on an 88 at a gas station last summer. Nice and clean, but a definite shin buster. I am in and out of that 5th door a lot, and I know my legs would pay the price.

I stopped by AB today and looked at their yellow '95 D90 that they are prepping for sale. Gorgeous truck. Noticed that defender rear bumper would also hang below the crossmember and would need a lot of custom fab work.

Next stop. My CAD program to think up a custom hitch. Stay tuned.........

P.S. I was born in Jacksonville at the Naval Hosp, and me and my family vacation in Maine - small world.


TogaRover.

[SafeAirOne]

There's always this option, or something along these lines (presuming you don't have a 109 wagon); No change in departure angle, minimal fabrication required, almost unnoticeable when painted black and is shin-safe:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/16091552447_132fc6c720_c.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8566/16091552397_07f4256188_c.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/16091552387_a0820c4c41_c.jpg

[o2batsea]

The Defender rear bar you show will not fit a series rear crossmember.
Bless mark's heart but that drawing is super overkill, plus I'm not sure how you'd install it without taking the tub off. Anyway, I was going to make my own, which is nothing more than some 3/8 plate with an off the shelf receiver tube welded on, but I found a bloke on eBay who was making just such a thing. It was galvanized, and had the benefit of being made already. Paid $50 and it is now attached to the back of my 109 wagon. Came with backing plates. I haven't seen the guy advertising them lately.
You can see it here:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=97036&d=1403125305

Here's how to roll your own:
http://www.tinshackrestoration.com/2013/03/07/trailer-hitch-for-the-bar/

[SafeAirOne]

I'm not sure how you'd install it without taking the tub off.

Hmm...I can't remember if there's anything in the way back there on a non-station wagon or not. There's an enormous fuel tank in the way on 5-door wagons of course.

The hitch in the photo of your 109 looks similar to one of Ike's 4x4 Tow Hitch (http://www.pangolin4x4.com/land-rover-parts-products/fabrication-parts/) (it may not be, but is very similar). It's the most painless/sensible way to go, but that design was previously eliminated from consideration as it sticks out too far for the OP's shins, hence the rather complicated PITA setup in my drawing:


I saw Ike's hitch on an 88 at a gas station last summer. Nice and clean, but a definite shin buster. I am in and out of that 5th door a lot, and I know my legs would pay the price.

[SafeAirOne]

...of course, if you DO want to remove the rear tub for installation, the hitch is a whole lot easier to fabricate and attach by simply welding in. It won't need to be as wide to make up (structurally) for the big hole through the center of the crossmember if the plates are welded to the crossmember:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/15659412413_668a680b58_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/15659412403_676a5736f0_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7519/15659412393_7bc1773aeb_z.jpg

[toga Rover]

Hey Mark,

Great design work. Mine is a '73 5-door station wagon, so I have that big fuel tank to contend with.


[QUOTE=SafeAirOne;102691]There's always this option, or something along these lines (presuming you don't have a 109 wagon);/QUOTE]

[parksy]

Now that looks really useful!

Great work Mark

[SafeAirOne]

Mine is a '73 5-door station wagon, so I have that big fuel tank to contend with.

Ahh, well...I suspect there'll have to be a compromise somewhere along the way then--I can't think of a method that meets all the criteria without doing any tank-dropping, unfortunately. I'm not saying it's impossible, I'm just saying a method doesn't exist in my brain. Perhaps others have ideas?

When I removed the Dixon-Bate adjustable tow jaw setup from my rear crossmember, I had to cut the heads off the bolts and leave the shanks floating around inside the mounting holes in the rear crossmember because there's not enough clearance between the forward surface of the crossmember and the tank to get the shanks out.

One of these days when I make an aluminum station wagon fuel tank to swap out with my rusty steel one, I'll get those bolt shanks out. ;)

[o2batsea]

It's the most painless/sensible way to go, but that design was previously eliminated from consideration as it sticks out too far for the OP's shins, hence the rather complicated PITA setup in my drawing

Yup that's part of the reason why the tow ball is in upside down, so I don't nut myself on it. However, the thing absolutely doesn't get in the way if you are aware of it.

[toga Rover]

So I took Mark's suggestion and made the smaller version of his design for my 109. And because she is a station wagon, I had to drop the tank to gain access to the rear of the crossmember. With all the parts cut and ready to weld, we dropped the tank, assembled and welded the receiver in to place, and reattached the tank all in one Saturday in the shop. Attached are some pics of the finished product (along with a 7-pin trailer plug with the controller tucked inside the tuffy box up front). And a few pics after blasting snowbanks in -7 degree weather in Upstate NY this afternoon. Thanks again Mark for your design idea. 10594105951059610597 10598105991060010601



...of course, if you DO want to remove the rear tub for installation, the hitch is a whole lot easier to fabricate and attach by simply welding in. It won't need to be as wide to make up (structurally) for the big hole through the center of the crossmember if the plates are welded to the crossmember:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/15659412413_668a680b58_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/15659412403_676a5736f0_z.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7519/15659412393_7bc1773aeb_z.jpg

[SafeAirOne]

Nice job-- a receiver with no shin-bashing.

[o2batsea]

I don't get it. You were so worried about clearance and plowing a rut with the hitch yet there's a (useless) rear step bolted on!

[SafeAirOne]

I don't get it. You were so worried about clearance and plowing a rut with the hitch yet there's a (useless) rear step bolted on!

That step is the only USEFUL one of the five, I've found (at least for a 3-door 109), and when stowed, barely sticks below the rear crossmember.

[toga Rover]

Minimal loss of ground clearance, maximal usefulness for my wife, 4yr old, and 2yr old getting in and out of the back.


I don't get it. You were so worried about clearance and plowing a rut with the hitch yet there's a (useless) rear step bolted on!

[TravelinLight]

Looks good, I will need to go out and check how mine is done as it looks similar. Truck is new to me so I have not had a need to tow anything as of yet.

[clearcut]

So I took Mark's suggestion and made the smaller version of his design for my 109. And because she is a station wagon, I had to drop the tank to gain access to the rear of the crossmember. With all the parts cut and ready to weld, we dropped the tank, assembled and welded the receiver in to place, and reattached the tank all in one Saturday in the shop. Attached are some pics of the finished product (along with a 7-pin trailer plug with the controller tucked inside the tuffy box up front). And a few pics after blasting snowbanks in -7 degree weather in Upstate NY this afternoon. Thanks again Mark for your design idea. 10594105951059610597 10598105991060010601

Very nice Station Wagon. What type of wire did you use for the floor on your roof rack.. How did you attach it

I saw it (wire) in the last picture.

Thanks

Josh

[toga Rover]

Thanks Josh,

It is fencing used in prisons/corrections facilities called "no climb". Comes in 4x8 sheets. I sourced it locally. It is in 2 sections (slant front, and flat back) and all zip-tied down. I wanted to find something whose bars are close together so that I could #1) put anything up there with out it falling through and scratching the paint on the roof, #2) wanted to be able to stand up there with minimal flex,

I could have tack welded it down, but decided against it because the whole thing would have been really heavy if ever i wanted to take the rack off. I can now stand up there and the weight is spread out nicely. Here are some more pics.

106161061810617