Series III Blower Motor

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  • RoverKid_1972
    Low Range
    • Mar 2015
    • 19

    Series III Blower Motor

    Hi, all!
    This is my first post on here and it is regarding the blower motor on my Series III. I tested the electrical connection and everything is A-OK. But still the motor doesn't run, and I'm wondering if it is possible to repair or if I just need to replace it entirely. If it is repairable, please let me know how!
    Thanks!

    Here is the blower:Click image for larger version

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    1972 Series III Frankenstein
  • lumpydog
    3rd Gear
    • May 2014
    • 383

    #2
    That's a two speed blower. The way it works is that the Green/Yellow wire runs power through a coil resistor (you can see it inside the blower) and then to the brown line supplying power to the motor. The green/brown wire is a direct tie into the brown line - which (as mentioned) runs power to the blower. The green/brown and green/yellow wires run to a three position switch (off, low, high) that runs power through one of the two wires to the blower.

    With the switch to high, the green/brown wire is the source of power and bypasses the resistor, giving full power directly to the blower. With the switch on low, the green/yellow wire is the source of power and it runs through the resistor, giving partial power to the blower.

    Points of failure on these blowers are with the resistor (you can only get high power) and with the motor itself. You can test the motor with a 12V battery. Ground the black wire to the battery's negative terminal. Briefly touch the green/brown wire to the battery's positive terminal. You should get high speed. If you get no rotation, the motor needs repair. Briefly touch the green/yellow wire to the battery's positive terminal. You should get a slower speed. If you get no rotation, the resistor needs to be replaced.

    Good blog on repairing these motors here.

    Post some pictures of your truck! And, welcome to the forum!!
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

    Comment

    • RoverKid_1972
      Low Range
      • Mar 2015
      • 19

      #3
      Thanks a ton for this; it is very helpful! When I go home this weekend, I will try to resolve the issue and I will let you know how it went. I'll also be sure to upload some photos of the beast!
      1972 Series III Frankenstein

      Comment

      • lumpydog
        3rd Gear
        • May 2014
        • 383

        #4
        Awesome - looking forward to hearing about it. You're in the right place ;-)
        1968 Series IIa
        1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

        Comment

        • o2batsea
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1199

          #5
          If it is dead, moss motors has them:

          Comment

          • RoverKid_1972
            Low Range
            • Mar 2015
            • 19

            #6
            @o2batsea Thanks for the link, but I think I'll try fixing it before shelling out 90 bucks.
            1972 Series III Frankenstein

            Comment

            • triumphtr7guy
              Low Range
              • Jan 2011
              • 66

              #7
              These are a standard Lucas blower motor, used in Triumphs, MGs and most other Brit vehicles of the same age, shouldnt be too hard to source on from either the internet or through swap meets. Good hunting!!!

              Bruce

              Comment

              • RoverKid_1972
                Low Range
                • Mar 2015
                • 19

                #8
                Any idea if I could purchase just the squirrel cage alone, or does it have to come with the entire motor?
                1972 Series III Frankenstein

                Comment

                • Les Parker
                  RN Sales Team - Super Moderator
                  • May 2006
                  • 2020

                  #9
                  RN has this in stock. Metal one so it wont explode like the plastic ones do.

                  Les Parker
                  Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
                  Rovers North Inc.

                  Comment

                  • Les Parker
                    RN Sales Team - Super Moderator
                    • May 2006
                    • 2020

                    #10
                    Also this, if you need it all :-

                    Les Parker
                    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
                    Rovers North Inc.

                    Comment

                    • RoverKid_1972
                      Low Range
                      • Mar 2015
                      • 19

                      #11
                      Thanks for the links, Les! Unfortunately, I am a poor college student and will likely go for a cheap platic part from ebay. Thanks anyway!
                      1972 Series III Frankenstein

                      Comment

                      • RoverKid_1972
                        Low Range
                        • Mar 2015
                        • 19

                        #12
                        So I'm in the process of restoring the motor and I need some advice as to how the heck to remove these plates that contain the bearings so that I can clean them. The first photo is that of the end cap for the motor casing. And the second photo is of the other half of the casing which the shaft runs through.Click image for larger version

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                        Thanks again for all the help!
                        1972 Series III Frankenstein

                        Comment

                        • lumpydog
                          3rd Gear
                          • May 2014
                          • 383

                          #13
                          A couple thoughts:

                          1) Reach out to the guy that writes the blog I linked to and ask him for advice.

                          2) Those bearings look like closed units and may not be meant to come apart (blog guy can help there since he was able to get his out). You may consider trying to just pull out the bearing as a unit to soak in gas or replace with a new bearing altogether.

                          3) if the bearings aren't siezed, try cleaning them in place by soaking them in gas letting them dry and relubricating with a bearing oil.
                          1968 Series IIa
                          1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

                          Comment

                          • RoverKid_1972
                            Low Range
                            • Mar 2015
                            • 19

                            #14
                            Originally posted by lumpydog
                            A couple thoughts:

                            1) Reach out to the guy that writes the blog I linked to and ask him for advice.

                            2) Those bearings look like closed units and may not be meant to come apart (blog guy can help there since he was able to get his out). You may consider trying to just pull out the bearing as a unit to soak in gas or replace with a new bearing altogether.

                            3) if the bearings aren't siezed, try cleaning them in place by soaking them in gas letting them dry and relubricating with a bearing oil.
                            I've corresponded with the blogger and I believe I've resolved the issue. Thanks again, lumpydog for helping out a struggling newbie!
                            1972 Series III Frankenstein

                            Comment

                            • lumpydog
                              3rd Gear
                              • May 2014
                              • 383

                              #15
                              Kid - you bet. What's the early diagnosis on the blower? Sounds like a seized bearing if you're trying to pull them. Did you find a replacement squirrel cage?
                              1968 Series IIa
                              1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

                              Comment

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