I have the original RN disc brake kit with both fronts and rears, which I installed a few years back. Life intervened and I didn't have a chance to finish it off. I decided to get the truck going, paid a shop to do it, they in effect gave up, and basically I am finding I now have to redo everything they did since they didn't actually get things to work.
I suspect they they got the parts used off of fleabay since I have already had to junk the electric vacuum pump and the vacuum switch (this was the SSBC kit). (My truck is a 2.25 diesel.)
i replaced the vacuum pump with an AC Delco unit, and a different switch and that part of the system now appears to be working.
The check valve seems fine - when I pulled it off the servo, there was a loud vacuum being released sound like cracking open a cold one. Blowing through it does only work in one direction.
But the pedal is still rock hard. It does get harder when I pump the pedal but only by a minor amount - rock hard and rock harder. It also makes a bit of hissing noise when pumped, although over the agricultural notes of the diesel engine, it is hard to say how much. But the hissing and a firmer pedal when pumping are what I would usually look for to see if the booster is working. It is almost like it is working, but starts from such a hard state it does not have anywhere to go to from there.
The only other thing I can think to replace is the servo itself. I am not sure which one the ***clowns at the shop
installed but from measuring externally the case is about 7-1/2" diameter. I was set to spring for the Santana one from Paul at Heystee, but they have been out of stock for like months and he didn't have a date and sounded a bit frustrated with the factory.
In in the mean time, I was thinking about it some more and the fact that the servo seems to be holding vacuum (the vacuum releasing sound I mentioned), makes me wonder if the diaphragm is actually ok, and from my limited experience that is what I have seen usually fails. So maybe it is not bad? Any other way to test it?
I am am also not sure which MC was installed either. I am going to look for numbers cast into it over the weekend and see which one it is. I could see this making some difference in pedal effort if an incorrect model was installed, but it seems worse (harder pedal) than I would suspect for the wrong MC. In case I need to replace that too, would the right MC just be the standard Defender non-ABS one, since it is driving standard Defender calipers? Is the flaring on the lines different between Series MCs and Defender ones?
Any ideas on what else to check?
For example, misalignment of the valve rod (pedal side rod) with the pedal? The brake tower is an S3 tower. I would not think that would be an issue since the centerline of all of the parts should be directly in a straight line so which servo should not be an issue.
If Paul won't have the Santana units any time soon I may just go with the Type 50 servo. Has anyone done that one, and is anything required besides squeezing the forks on the valve rod together to fit the S3 pedal?
(Thanks for the great page on this, TerriAnn.).
I suspect they they got the parts used off of fleabay since I have already had to junk the electric vacuum pump and the vacuum switch (this was the SSBC kit). (My truck is a 2.25 diesel.)
i replaced the vacuum pump with an AC Delco unit, and a different switch and that part of the system now appears to be working.
The check valve seems fine - when I pulled it off the servo, there was a loud vacuum being released sound like cracking open a cold one. Blowing through it does only work in one direction.
But the pedal is still rock hard. It does get harder when I pump the pedal but only by a minor amount - rock hard and rock harder. It also makes a bit of hissing noise when pumped, although over the agricultural notes of the diesel engine, it is hard to say how much. But the hissing and a firmer pedal when pumping are what I would usually look for to see if the booster is working. It is almost like it is working, but starts from such a hard state it does not have anywhere to go to from there.
The only other thing I can think to replace is the servo itself. I am not sure which one the ***clowns at the shop
installed but from measuring externally the case is about 7-1/2" diameter. I was set to spring for the Santana one from Paul at Heystee, but they have been out of stock for like months and he didn't have a date and sounded a bit frustrated with the factory.
In in the mean time, I was thinking about it some more and the fact that the servo seems to be holding vacuum (the vacuum releasing sound I mentioned), makes me wonder if the diaphragm is actually ok, and from my limited experience that is what I have seen usually fails. So maybe it is not bad? Any other way to test it?
I am am also not sure which MC was installed either. I am going to look for numbers cast into it over the weekend and see which one it is. I could see this making some difference in pedal effort if an incorrect model was installed, but it seems worse (harder pedal) than I would suspect for the wrong MC. In case I need to replace that too, would the right MC just be the standard Defender non-ABS one, since it is driving standard Defender calipers? Is the flaring on the lines different between Series MCs and Defender ones?
Any ideas on what else to check?
For example, misalignment of the valve rod (pedal side rod) with the pedal? The brake tower is an S3 tower. I would not think that would be an issue since the centerline of all of the parts should be directly in a straight line so which servo should not be an issue.
If Paul won't have the Santana units any time soon I may just go with the Type 50 servo. Has anyone done that one, and is anything required besides squeezing the forks on the valve rod together to fit the S3 pedal?
(Thanks for the great page on this, TerriAnn.).
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