Clutch Master issue

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  • chuckstp
    Low Range
    • Oct 2014
    • 82

    Clutch Master issue

    Lately, I've noticed play in the clutch peddle before the mechanism engages. It is most noticeable when I take my foot off because the peddle will bounce a bit afterward. Yesterday, I noticed what appears to be break fluid so I suspect the master cylinder is beginning to leak. No problem, I'll replace the master.

    My question is, with this play, am I safe to drive while I wait for the part to arrive, or should I stay completely off it? I have some light hauling I need to do which adds a wrinkle to the situation as well.
  • cedryck
    5th Gear
    • Sep 2010
    • 836

    #2
    If there is play, check that the end of the rod coming out of the cylinder check to see that the adjustment is correct, check the green bible there are pictures of what to do,

    Comment

    • slowmo
      2nd Gear
      • Dec 2014
      • 225

      #3
      You're safe until the master doesn't work at all anymore. Then you're not safe. Who know when that will happen!?

      You'll be replacing the master soon. Brace yourself if it is a left hand drive version. If you haven't removed the wing before (the fender) that will be step one. The first time is interesting with all the bolts frozen and the wiring harness brittle. Thereafter, it is a piece of cake. Also, beware of the fitting on the master. Remove with the greatest of ease because if you jack that up you are in for interesting times as well. Auto parts stores do not have the proper fitting so you will be ordering from our hosts extending your downtime.

      Then you will be removing the clutch assembly. It is easy to get the couple of necessary adjustments at that point.

      Good luck from the been there done that crowd.
      --David

      1959 TR3
      1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

      My hovercraft is full of eels.

      Comment

      • o2batsea
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1199

        #4
        The "play" may simply be air hat has been sucked in due to the thing leaking fluid.

        Comment

        • ignotus
          2nd Gear
          • Sep 2009
          • 237

          #5
          If the pedal is loose with no foot on it check 3 things; 1) does it have a return spring? if not put one on. 2) it is ipmortant that the dimension of the pedal bottom to the top of the floor(no mat) be correct, ie with a hydrostatic clutch should be 5.5" a non-hydrostatic clutch 6.25". 3) to prevent the pedal from coming up higher there is and adjustment bolt on the front of the pedal tower, loosen the locknut and adjust the pedal height with the spring pulling it up.
          The hydrostatic clutch is the late model that is identified as follows;
          the support bracket for the clutch slave cylinder on early models encloses the cyclinder; on late models the cylinder is exposed
          the operating lever on early models is straight, but on late models it is cranked
          the return spring is not fitted to the operating lever on late models
          The late model requires no adjusting for the life of the clutch plate.

          If you don't have a repair manual get one, yer gonna need it.
          1960 "bitsa" 88--Ignotus
          1960 109, 200TDI
          rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

          Comment

          • LaneRover
            Overdrive
            • Oct 2006
            • 1743

            #6
            Remember you only really NEED the clutch to get moving from a stop. So if you need to limp home without a way to release the clutch you can. Do keep in mind that this is less fun with a fully loaded truck.
            1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
            1965 109 SW - nearly running well
            1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
            1969 109 P-UP

            http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

            Comment

            • clearcut
              2nd Gear
              • Jul 2014
              • 233

              #7
              Clutch Master...

              Does the brake pedal have the same adjustment as the the Clutch Pedal?
              thanks

              josh


              Originally posted by ignotus
              If the pedal is loose with no foot on it check 3 things; 1) does it have a return spring? if not put one on. 2) it is ipmortant that the dimension of the pedal bottom to the top of the floor(no mat) be correct, ie with a hydrostatic clutch should be 5.5" a non-hydrostatic clutch 6.25". 3) to prevent the pedal from coming up higher there is and adjustment bolt on the front of the pedal tower, loosen the locknut and adjust the pedal height with the spring pulling it up.
              The hydrostatic clutch is the late model that is identified as follows;
              the support bracket for the clutch slave cylinder on early models encloses the cyclinder; on late models the cylinder is exposed
              the operating lever on early models is straight, but on late models it is cranked
              the return spring is not fitted to the operating lever on late models
              The late model requires no adjusting for the life of the clutch plate.

              If you don't have a repair manual get one, yer gonna need it.
              1967 Land Rover 109
              1966 Land Rover 109

              Joshua Tyler

              Comment

              • ignotus
                2nd Gear
                • Sep 2009
                • 237

                #8
                Josh,

                The brake pedal should be 6" from the floorboard(no mat). Adjusted the same way on the back.
                1960 "bitsa" 88--Ignotus
                1960 109, 200TDI
                rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                Comment

                • clearcut
                  2nd Gear
                  • Jul 2014
                  • 233

                  #9
                  brake pedal adjustment

                  I assume you take off the return spring before taking the measurement?
                  1967 Land Rover 109
                  1966 Land Rover 109

                  Joshua Tyler

                  Comment

                  • ignotus
                    2nd Gear
                    • Sep 2009
                    • 237

                    #10
                    I suppose you could but the pedal has to be held at the highest point by something, the spring or your hand. If it is too high you just loosen the locknut and screw in the adjusting bolt, too low screw it out. Simples.
                    1960 "bitsa" 88--Ignotus
                    1960 109, 200TDI
                    rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                    Comment

                    • cedryck
                      5th Gear
                      • Sep 2010
                      • 836

                      #11
                      what style of master is on your truck?

                      Comment

                      • Escargo
                        Low Range
                        • May 2008
                        • 65

                        #12
                        You might as well order a slave too. That's what I was told several years ago when I had to replace my master. Sure enuf, short time later, the slave gave up. Increased pressure or some such. Oh yeah and do the flex line between them while you're at it.

                        Comment

                        • clearcut
                          2nd Gear
                          • Jul 2014
                          • 233

                          #13
                          I have the following master on my 109

                          MASTER CYL 109" CB TYPE SER.II-IIA PLC429

                          I also have Clayton remote servo I am working with too

                          josh
                          1967 Land Rover 109
                          1966 Land Rover 109

                          Joshua Tyler

                          Comment

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