still chasing a ghost

[cedryck]

Cheers, I am still chasing a ghost with my 2.25 engine. Recent tune up, engine starts right away, idles, nice. After a short drive, engine wants to die on idle.
have looked into coil, replace with one that I know also works no difference,
Looked into alternator output, 12.2 volts before start-up, 14.44 after start up, so I am eliminating the alt.
Looked at carb, all exchange ports, clean, filter clean, can see fuel flowing through filter, although when gas is on, full throttle, truck still bucks! Feel like starvation, I am thinking, so lads,
any suggestions?

[o2batsea]

New condensor?

[cedryck]

Yes new type where orange wire is connected to black wire, yes new condenser,

[mearstrae]

Your battery voltage should be a little closer to your charging voltage (around 13v). In effect at 12v your battery is too low on usable voltage. i don't know if this is the problem, but it can't help. This is why I prefer a dashboard volt-meter to an amp-meter, so you can monitor battery and alternator condition while driving.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[slowmo]

I think we are chasing the same dang ghost. Electric fuel pump?

[cedryck]

That is what I am thinking. I have talked with others who experienced the same issues, and find that an electric pump helps. I would like to ask this thread who has done it, and look for a reliable brand, and ask where they place the pump, what they do with the mechanical, in line or bypass it. thank you,

[slowmo]

I installed an electric fuel pump and it completely solved the vapor lock issue I was having. It is a rotary vane fuel pump which delivers at 4 - 8 psi. It is very loud, but once the truck starts you can't hear it. That is probably because I am wearing ear plugs, however.

http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/crt-p4070/overview/

There are probably quieter solutions out there, but with a float and needle valve setup in the carb, you need to keep the delivery pressure down. Otherwise it will open the needle even when the float is up and flood. This would be obvious with extreme black carbon build up on the plugs (if it ran at all).

I ordered another kit for the Weber 34 ICH and hope to find something amiss in the carb when I rebuild it...again.

[mearstrae]

I use Carter electric fuel pumps with regulators to step down the pressure (have had them on my 3500S and SIII for years). I've also used Bendix industrial electric pumps for positive earth vehicles. Always mount at the rear of the vehicle (or close to the fuel tank) as these and others are 'pusher' pumps. By-pass the mechanical or make a block off plate, I've used fuel filters to join the connections at the mechanical pump.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.c. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S