Getting the 2A Steering wheel off

[SirGeorgeSt]

I need to remove the steering wheel from my 1971 2A 88 so I can replace the missing horn dust-cover. I've soaked the spline with a good penetrating oil, but is there a wheel puller that will fit the deep shape of the wheel? There's no room to hammer up on the bottom of the wheel, plus that makes me nervous. SirGeorgeSt

[slowmo]

Here's a link.

http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?16314-Steering-wheel-removal

[SirGeorgeSt]

Thanks! Lots of useful information there. When I pull and wobble it a lot, I'll wear a hockey mask!

[cnfowler]

Thanks! Lots of useful information there. When I pull and wobble it a lot, I'll wear a hockey mask!

No need to wear a mask. Just leave the nut threaded on the very end of the shaft. That'll keep the wheel from hitting you.


Colin

[64Blue]

Or wear one for the fun of it...

[SirGeorgeSt]

Due to the Great Knowledge available here, the steering wheel is off, cleaned and beautified, the replacement horn dust-cover attached properly,and the wheel re-attached with no forehead bruises.
Here's the NEW Strangeness: I tested the horn button with the positive lead attached to the brass collar, the dust-cover contact leading the positive current into the button as directed. All should be well.
BUT, if I clip onto the steering wheel washer tab as the ground, IT SHORTS OUT. IF I clip onto a ground wire screwed into the bulkhead, the horn beeps as it should. ISN'T A GROUND A GROUND? Why would the steering column cause a short? Any ideas? I am flummoxed.

[SirGeorgeSt]

The solution turned out to be a (bad) single-tab horn. The casing grounded to the frame, making the horn connections unworkable. Bought a TWO-TAB horn That way, the ground/live connection can be interrupted at will, making the horn button a working reality. Wahoo!

[cnfowler]

Pictures of the 'beautified' wheel, please.


Colin

[S11A]

Or wear one for the fun of it...

:thumb-up: