Greetings. Re wiring a Franken Electrical system......
This is a functional restoration. There is enough non correct stuff on this thing already that we are well out of rivet counting territory. From the outside it needs to look as "period" as possible, which it is. What you can't see is less important. And, I am not going to spend hundreds to get the correct switches/fixtures. I'll try and keep it close. What I want is a functional, reliable electrical system. Marine grade tinned wiring with heat shrunk self soldering connectors. I'll hide it in black tubing as much as possible. That said:
Some connections in the spaghetti came undone whilst deconstructing and documenting.
As far as I can tell the voltage stabilizer is between the 12V source and the temp and fuel gauges.
Is there a way to test it?
And, there are two pairs of contacts. Looking at it right side up the two on the right appear 12V and the gauges go on the left...correct?
Secondly..... the system wasn't charging. Not sure about the dynamo, but the regulator is pretty corroded and shows signs of overheating. I can chance getting a new regulator and having the dynamo be OK...... or not.
But, I'd really like to convert to an alternator......
I'm aware of the kit, and the Series III alternator, with original Lucas regulator. That's three spendy pieces....
Is there a more economical way to do this? A modern non Rover regulator is OK, I'll hide it somewhere.....
Lastly, an alternator would probably peg the ammeter which is indeed there, and confirmed working. Does it hurt it to be pegged for a little after starting?
Thanks.
This is a functional restoration. There is enough non correct stuff on this thing already that we are well out of rivet counting territory. From the outside it needs to look as "period" as possible, which it is. What you can't see is less important. And, I am not going to spend hundreds to get the correct switches/fixtures. I'll try and keep it close. What I want is a functional, reliable electrical system. Marine grade tinned wiring with heat shrunk self soldering connectors. I'll hide it in black tubing as much as possible. That said:
Some connections in the spaghetti came undone whilst deconstructing and documenting.
As far as I can tell the voltage stabilizer is between the 12V source and the temp and fuel gauges.
Is there a way to test it?
And, there are two pairs of contacts. Looking at it right side up the two on the right appear 12V and the gauges go on the left...correct?
Secondly..... the system wasn't charging. Not sure about the dynamo, but the regulator is pretty corroded and shows signs of overheating. I can chance getting a new regulator and having the dynamo be OK...... or not.
But, I'd really like to convert to an alternator......
I'm aware of the kit, and the Series III alternator, with original Lucas regulator. That's three spendy pieces....
Is there a more economical way to do this? A modern non Rover regulator is OK, I'll hide it somewhere.....
Lastly, an alternator would probably peg the ammeter which is indeed there, and confirmed working. Does it hurt it to be pegged for a little after starting?
Thanks.
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