Heater Idea

[slowmo]

I had to replace my heater core (corroded out) and heater fan motor (burnt crispy) earlier this year and am fairly unimpressed with its performance...as in it's terrible. The amount of air coming out of the defroster vent is equivalent to a butterfly passing gas. Though the fan makes an impressive blowing sound, I believe the pressure loss through the core kills the air flow. When I disconnect the duct before the heater core, the fan does move an impressive amount of air.

I was thinking of removing the core and installing an electric heater under the hood. I would connect it to the ducting that exists and run it with a 12VDC to 120AC 20amp inverter, now that I have a strong alternator. Advantages would include instantaneous heat and some actual air velocity.

Has anyone tried anything like this?

[TedW]

Hi David:

I also have a '70 IIA, but am very pleased with the heat / air flow it puts out (and it gets cold up here). Even my wife doesn't complain.
Question: What are you running for a thermostat? A hotter one would help. Also, (pardon the obvious suggestion) make sure that the heater valve is open all the way. And since you replaced the motor you should confirm that the squirrel cage is tightly attached and is spinning with the motor and not slipping.

Just a few thoughts - Ted

[cedryck]

I also was unimpressed with the Smiths round pancake, shin burner, that' all it heats up is the passengers shins, and so therefore at a loss and out of money purchased a Jeep heater core for a MK jeep. I had to place it in a different spot, but for 60 bucks beginning to end it is a good replacement.

[slowmo]

Here's what I found so far. Advantage is no inverter required (an inverter with sufficient wattage output is costly). This heater can use a 12VDC supply and puts out 620watts. The intake is on the back side so I would run 3" scat tube from the outside vent to the intake, and then scat tube from the exhaust to the existing heater duct. Total cost looks to be something like $225 + time. Not so bad for actual heat.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFE-12V-DC-HEATER-12-VOLT-620W-HORNET-45-ELECTRIC-AUTOMOBILE-TRUCK-AUTO-CAR/272004445480?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dece9c5271ad54af9b6 0d2eac6bb4b669%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%2 6mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272004445480


edit to add: Just need to make sure I can get it to fit.:sly:

[utahseries]

Better make sure your alternator is in good shape. I've heard those electrics draw crazy amounts of amps. I've got my smiths in the front and one of these in the back.
http://www.northernfactory.com/SPECIALTY_PRODUCTS/AUXILIARY_HEATERS/12V_HEATERS/AH500. But if I just wanted to have one heater I'd use one of these bad boys.
http://www.northernfactory.com/SPECIALTY_PRODUCTS/AUXILIARY_HEATERS/12V_HEATERS/AH550

[o2batsea]

Draws roughly 52 amps. As long as Mr Alternator can keep up no reason why it wouldn't work. However, 650 watts of heat is roughly 1/3 of what a cheapo hair dryer puts out, so it isn't all that much. Might take the chill off but will def not warm up the truck on a freezing cold day.
You are always way better off with a hydronic type heater, such as your shin burner. Seems like your problem is one of air volume and not BTUs.

[I Leak Oil]

I would think you could find a better fan\motor and end up keeping money in your pocket and be better off in the long run. 650 watts is not a lot, especially in a drafty, air leak prone vehicle like a series truck. In general, if electric heater use in vehicles was a good idea, most manufacturers would be using them by now. I just think it could cause more issues than it solves.

[Jim-ME]

There was a GM fan and motor with a higher air flow rate that could be used in late 2a and S3 housings with minor modifications to the housing. Does this ring a bell with anyone. I can't seem to find the information.
Jim

[Oscar]

W = V x A

Average house space heater is 1500W on high. No, it wouldn't be enough to heat the leaky box and it would draw 125A.......

Get a better coil. redesign the ducting if you have to. Nothing beats the massive amount of free heat coming out of the engine, you just have to harness it properly.

[ignotus]

Slowmo, make sure first that you have checked your hoses. Are they clear?(no dead mice) Are they airtight? Does the butterfly flap it's wings when it farts? Is the intake clear and how about the fins on the core? I've seen some where the hose is loosely attached(push fit) to the vent and the air just goes outside the vent and not into it or the hose is pushed into the distribution box and allows air to go out the side. Lastly does the flap valve to change from windscreen to shins work and close off 75% of the air flow?