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View Full Version : Looking to purchase first Land Rover and would like some thoughts



harleyujoe
02-16-2016, 09:18 AM
Live here in NJ and want to do some light 4 X 4ing in Jersey Pines.
Looking at a 1970 LR iiA diesel 88 truck in Conn this week and some nervous about doing so.
I know to begin with 55 is top speed and know the way people drive here it is a negative.
But have been told some serious mud holes back in Pines and to be careful and wonder if to much
for this 60hp diesel and if it can handle it.
So wonder if others with diesel what they feel iiA can do or if I should just wait and look for a gas LR?
thanks joe

bugeye88
02-16-2016, 10:47 AM
Harley,
First, vintage Landy's are like any vintage car in that they have their own set of things to look at when considering buying one. I t would be nice if you could find someone in your area that knows Series Land Rovers to take a look at it with you. Barring that, look, drive, take pics and use this forum to help your decision. As if this truck can handle "mud holes" etc the answer is YEP!

Cheers,
Rob
Bugeye88

slowmo
02-16-2016, 11:10 AM
I would add that in order for owning and operating a Series Rover (from a practical and financial perspective) you need to at least have average wrench turning abilities and like doing it. It will take time, parts, money, and beer (and an understanding significant other) to get it to be reliable.

On the plus side every time I drive it my smile is ear to ear. It is just a kick in the pants. One word of warning: I am 6'3" and simply too tall for my truck. If I sit up straight I am looking at the top of the windshield instead of out of the windshield. I didn't notice that when I bought the truck (though it wouldn't have stopped me).

I Leak Oil
02-16-2016, 01:28 PM
I'd say they are OK in the mud. Depends on how it's set up, like any other vehicle. Diesel will be fine off road. You'll find it lacking on road. 55mph might be wishful at times.

slowmo
02-16-2016, 03:37 PM
55mph flat (maybe with a tail wind), down hill certainly. 35mph uphill. Still grinning though.

Just be prepared for the other drivers to honk in approval of being stuck behind you. Then they shall give you the one finger Rover Salute as they pass, cutting back in to your lane inches from your bumper, once again showing their appreciation of your stately promenade.

slowmo
02-16-2016, 03:46 PM
I'd say they are OK in the mud. Depends on how it's set up, like any other vehicle. Diesel will be fine off road. You'll find it lacking on road. 55mph might be wishful at times.

Ok. That is not just mud. That is beyond mud...something like "Super Mud." Did you have to go back months later to dig it out or did the winch do the trick?

edit to add
BTW, that kid is a trooper.

I Leak Oil
02-16-2016, 03:57 PM
Made it out just fine. Took longer to hose it off after than it did to get out! Yes, he is a trooper and still talks about it to this day. Makes it all worth it.

Oscar
02-17-2016, 08:51 AM
Welcome Harleyyujoe.

55 downhill with a tailwind. I stay off interstates and similar state roads. You've been there where someone was doing 45 and you went "what the (*&^% ?" Some yoyo yacking on his cell phone is going to run you over. This can hurt, especially if it's an 18 wheeler. That said, it's a hoot to get there via the back roads. Sometimes the mileage is considerably less when you can get a straight-ish line going. When the speed limit is 45 you're much more comfortable. If you create a parade, pull over and let them pass. I usually print out some pages of Google maps for my route. Between that and the phone it's pretty easy to figure it all out. And, the scenery is MUCH more entertaining.

Off road the Series trucks are VERY capable. They are rugged and the four wheel drive/high low boxes give you all the torque you need. Usually it's the driver that runs out of technique long before the Rover runs out of capability. Spend some money on a decent tire and leave the rest alone. Yes, a winch can be helpful if you look for trouble and find it.

The other piece of advise above bears repeating. Take someone with you that knows these trucks. Everything is replaceable for a price. But the two weakest points, ie the steel chassis and bulkhead (firewall) do rust out if neglected and require EVERYTHING to be taken apart and are expensive to buy. Make sure they are sound.

And yes, being familiar with automotive tools and their use helps. There are lots of fora like this with tons of information about the specific procedures to help you through them, but you do need a general idea of how to work on cars. There are people that do it for a living, but unless you have a very deep wallet that is not the way you want to go.

Keep us posted!

harleyujoe
02-17-2016, 04:57 PM
thank you for your information... trying to go friday to see land rover, will let you know.
Luv the mud pictures Jason.. thanks all

cedryck
02-22-2016, 01:26 PM
Just some of my thoughts, First make the truck road worthy, good engine, brakes, and electrics and all working clutch and all pedals good and firm.
Good tires make off roading a blast, the wheel arches have plenty of room for tall 15 or 16 inch rims.
Talk with others, (here) and get the right information, read the green bibles to make yourself familiar with this truck.
Get used to wrenching and bring tools on the road, as well as extra fluids, axles, and other important fluids, hypo, brake girling, and radiator fluid, as well as an assortment of nuts and bolts, (for those things that may fall out of the car), and drive conservatively it is not a jaguar, and certainly does not stop like a performance car. Best of luck, cheers,

REDrum
03-13-2016, 12:18 PM
For a whole bunch of reasons i gave up on owning diesel series trucks. Things I would encourage you to consider:
- Do you know local mechanic who knows diesel if not series diesel? Unless you know diesels well already, having someone you can rely on and learn from is key.
- How long may you be driving said diesel to the Pine Barrens? An (ro)overdrive will get you another 5MPH an a little less engine noise
- If you have not already, drive one on tarmac; go for a nice long drive like 30/40 miles in varying roads.
- Depending on age of engine you may be running 1/2 of the factory spec'd flywheel hp, and that is very noticeable. A buddy put a 2.25 Diesel Series on a dyno in 2wd and its best pull was 22hp at the wheels....
- While you don't need a lot of HP for mud, you will need softer springs (parabolics) and good mud specific tires. For when you run out of talent in mud, be sure and have recovery boards (Maxtrax) and/or winch.
- Parts are available in US but some may have to be sourced from across the pond and that can take weeks

ernest.irw
04-01-2016, 06:22 AM
First to inspect on an old land rover is the chassis make sure it is not a rust bucket, look underneath and check the cross member and outriggers for rust. Second to inspect for rust is the bulkhead, if there are many weld patches it is best to look a different rover. Chassis and bulkhead of land rover series are the most important part of the vehicle because most of its body panels are built around them and it is time consuming and quite expensive to rebuild compared to other parts of its body panels. The other body panels are mostly aluminium they are thin plates but durable and easy to replace and fix.
If it is original engine I will go for the petrol engine because it is easier to fix than diesels. The three major flaw of land rover series are 1. Transmission oil leak, 2. Steering relay 3. Brakes.
For the first flaw (oil leak) there are no real 100% oil leak free for old land rover series, there must be some leak and it is a good sign that the vehicle still have some oil in it. Land rover steering relay must be maintained regularly but its location is very hard to reach and most people just forget to service that important part, best solution is to add power steering. The third flaw are the brakes, they are durable but not enough stopping power best to modify the front brakes to disc and add booster.
For electrics, just upgrade to newer system such as adding relays, bigger amps alternator, cdi, etc.
For other parts, they are like most old car that have to be inspect and serviced regularly. Off road in the mud? It is land rovers' natural habitat. Good luck. Have fun.

printjunky
04-01-2016, 03:51 PM
I agree with pretty much all of ernest's (and many others') points, but to chime in myself:

As ernest said, I'd put frame condition at #1 priority. In case it's been painted or coated, I'd bring a hammer and tap around for too many dead spots. As mentioned, particularly outriggers and cross members, but I see rust near spring perches as well.

Door bottoms (rectangular channel section) often rust badly. If they are bad, you are more likely to have bulkhead (firewall), footwell and door post issues, A good telltale there can be rust streaks on the outside, down from joints and fasteners anywhere around where the passenger compartment meets the engine bay.

I'd not worry about frame (or footwell, etc) welds if they appear well done and there is no evidence of hidden corrosion (if it's hidden, how do you know? The aforementioned streaking, paint bubbling, etc). (eventually we'll all weld something, on the frame or around the firewall).

I also agree, in some respects, with the electrics upgrade. I grafted in a mid-90s Caddy fusebox (sacrilege to some) with relays to run everything in a safer and more modern way. I also put modern seats, and parabolics, among other ongoing upgrades (all most important for a daily driver like mine. Less so on a weekend warrior). Oh, and ABSOLUTELY put electronic ignition in. I have a pertronix. Easy and inexpensive.

I agree with the petrol engine. Though I have no personal experience with the diesels, I can tell you that when you get the 2.25P dialed in, it can run like a champ. Which is why I disagree strongly with all of the comments about highway manners. I can run 60MPH (without an overdrive!) straight as an arrow, and smooth as silk, all day without much problem. Sure, it's loud, and sure, it's a bit spendy, gas-wise. But I do multiple 4-plus hour trips in my SIII 88" every year. I've had it up to 66 without feeling like I was pushing extremes (except maybe decibels).

Also, my brakes are fine, and only slightly less so pulling my 1,500-ish pound boat. Even in their "pump-em' a bit" air infiltrated state right now. Maybe I'm just used to it and drive accordingly, but I find they match the power of the motor pretty fairly (and GVWR, I suppose).

There is, of course, and as many have mentioned, more maintenance involved than a modern car, in keeping it dialed in. But you likely expect that if you're looking at older Rovers. And I also agree that having a strong mechanical skillset and a troubleshooting mentality will help a LOT. As well as the mindset of listening to, and feeling what the Rover is telling you as you drive. It's not a vehicle you can generally just get in, turn on and mindlessly drive.