Steering relay column

[dwmcompton]

I'm working on a 1973 series III 88. The Rover has been sitting out in the elements for several years, and now the steering is VERY tight. I have isolated the problem to the Steering Relay column. Is this an easy part to disassemble and lubricate, or better off buying a new one? I'd like to try the former first so any advice would be appreciated. I see that 90 weight oil is recommended for lubrication, but where exactly does that oil go?

[cedryck]

On top of the steering box, at botton of steering shaft there should be a square box and on top there is a removable plug for access to place 90w into box. Binding can also happen in the relay mounted in the frame, of any of the associated linkages.

[cnfowler]

Here's a steering relay rebuild guide I put together.

http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?16554-Steering-Relay-Rebuild-Guide


Colin

[slowmo]

On top of the steering box, at botton of steering shaft there should be a square box and on top there is a removable plug for access to place 90w into box. Binding can also happen in the relay mounted in the frame, of any of the associated linkages.

That's what I was thinking. Could be a steering damper, messed up swivel ball, etc. You might disconnect at the relay (if you haven't) for further isolation. No need to rebuild stuff now that doesn't need it (though you will likely have the opportunity to rebuild everything at some point).

[o2batsea]

Think about power steering conversion....

[dwmcompton]

Sorry, should have been more clear. It's definitely the relay mounted in the frame in front of the radiator. I drained and refilled the steering column box and that is working just fine. The ball joints are also, for the most part, working fine though in need of new boots and some lube. It's the relay box that is jammed up. I was able to figure out how to refill with 90w oil, and it's been sitting overnight, but as of yesterday I could not get it to budge.

[dwmcompton]

This is definitely the part that is the problem, and my skill level, on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being professional, I'm about a 3! So I think I'll continue to try and tinker with it, but guessing I may end up buying a new one in the end.

[lumpydog]

Here's a steering relay rebuild guide I put together.

http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?16554-Steering-Relay-Rebuild-Guide


Colin

I started to reply to this thread and then thought - Colin nailed this one recently, wait for him to jump in :-)

[cnfowler]

I wouldn't be scared to tackle rebuilding the relay. With that said, if you don't have the time or the desire to dig into it, replacements can be had for ~$100 + shipping. I've got other Rover parts I needed to spend the money on so I chose to spend about $8 to rebuild it. That left $100 for other Land Rover stuff - woohoo!!!


Colin

[mpreston14]

I wouldn't be scared to tackle rebuilding the relay. With that said, if you don't have the time or the desire to dig into it, replacements can be had for ~$100 + shipping. I've got other Rover parts I needed to spend the money on so I chose to spend about $8 to rebuild it. That left $100 for other Land Rover stuff - woohoo!!!


Colin

I struggle with this as well, is it worth the $, my limited time, or a combination of both. Time usually wins (especially since new parts are shipped to my dads where my wife can't find them on the door step :) )

[stomper]

Step one: Get the relay out of the frame cross member. When you achieve that, you will have a better ability to decide if you want to rebuild it, or if you have already screwed around long enough to just buy a replacement.

[dwmcompton]

OK, so next question, perhaps not so easy to answer: how easily should that relay column spin around with some manual force? I re-attached the lower relay arm, tried to move it by hand and it wouldn't budge. I then fitted about a 3 foot long pipe over the arm for a bit of extra torque and I was able, with most of my strength, to get the thing moving. When it first starts moving there is a discernable "tink" sound of it loosening but then I'm able to move it back and forth with a good amount of effort. Should it be moving much more easily than this? I'm this close to just replacing it... Which brings on the next question - looks like the radiator needs to be removed in order for the relay column bracket bolts to be removed. Is that accurate?

[I Leak Oil]

The relay has been known to be...um...stubborn... to remove. You can rebuild it without removing it from the chassis.

[cnfowler]

It shouldn't be that tight. It probably has no oil in it causing it to be so stiff. Mine was difficult to turn when I removed it. Cracked it open and it was bone dry inside. The bushings need lubrication to ease the turning of the relay shaft. Once I rebuilt it, it was much much easier to turn. I could hold the relay in my hand and use a set of pliers to turn the shaft.

The radiator does need to be removed to get the bolts out. A bit of work just for two stupid bolts, I know.


Colin

[cnfowler]

I struggle with this as well, is it worth the $, my limited time, or a combination of both. Time usually wins (especially since new parts are shipped to my dads where my wife can't find them on the door step :) )

I don't make enough money to buy new parts when I can overhaul the originals. I also don't make enough money to pay someone to do the work for me. This means things take longer than they should, but it also means my bank account is happy. I'm also a cheapskate when it comes to vehicles so even if I had the money I don't know I could bring myself to overpay for stuff and also pay the crazy, insane labor everyone wants to charge these days. "$150 per hour, we pay our techs $15 per hour, we think that's fair. Oh yeah, we also mark up all our parts to make money on those also."


Colin

[dwmcompton]

It shouldn't be that tight. It probably has no oil in it causing it to be so stiff. Mine was difficult to turn when I removed it. Cracked it open and it was bone dry inside. The bushings need lubrication to ease the turning of the relay shaft. Once I rebuilt it, it was much much easier to turn. I could hold the relay in my hand and use a set of pliers to turn the shaft.

The radiator does need to be removed to get the bolts out. A bit of work just for two stupid bolts, I know.


Colin

Wonder why they didn't just put the bolts in the other way around... Wow, turning it by hand with wrenches - I'm way off from that. I did fill it with oil and have been working it around with the length of pipe attached to the relay arm. It does feel like it's slowly getting more and more loose, so I'm going to keep at it.

[cnfowler]

Wonder why they didn't just put the bolts in the other way around...

Because that would make too much sense.


Wow, turning it by hand with wrenches - I'm way off from that. I did fill it with oil and have been working it around with the length of pipe attached to the relay arm. It does feel like it's slowly getting more and more loose, so I'm going to keep at it.

It's difficult to get oil in to it since there is a large thrust washer that sits right on top of the bushings against the top cap. You can remove the top cap by removing the four small bolts holding it on, then put the oil in. Without the top cap the oil just goes right in.

Like this. It can be done in situ. Just remove the top steering arm from the shaft.
http://s19.postimg.org/eawvz0h1f/IMG_1772.jpg

The assembly isn't going to come apart just by removing the top cap. There is a paper gasket for the top cap, but you could always just use a sealant designed for gear oil.


Colin

[dwmcompton]

Colin, this photo is very helpful. But it looks like you have been able to go a layer deeper than I have currently been able to. Here's a shot of what mine looks like:

11425

Is it the thrust washer you mention above that is still in mine? If so, is there a way to remove that washer without removing the relay from the chasis?

[cnfowler]

You are correct in that my picture is shown without the thrust washer. The washer is bronze I believe so I don't think a magnet will work. It's just sitting there, but with no room to dig it out I'm not sure how you could go about removing it. The bolt holes can be used to fill the relay. If you have a top on your oil bottle like the one in my picture you could stick that in the bolt hole and squeeze. I've heard of guys using an oil can to force the oil in.

If the oil doesn't go in easily, try another hole. The bushings under the thrust washer are split. If you find the right hole that's close to or at the same spot as the split in the bushings I would think the oil would go right in. Otherwise the oil will hit the top of the bushing and have to creep down into the body of the relay. Hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say.

http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/42/427/4270/4270014.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6


Colin

[cnfowler]

You can see the split in the bushings (hose clamps holding them together) in this picture. Hopefully one of the four holes will be in the right spot to allow the oil to flow right in.

http://s19.postimg.org/4hbi4atz7/IMG_1702.jpg


Colin

[dwmcompton]

OK, thanks again Colin. So, yes, I was able to fill with oil a few weeks ago through one of the bolt holes. But when that didn't help loosen the relay I opened the bottom bolt holes and the oil seeped out. I then began squirting PB Spray into the holes in the top and this is when I was able to get the relay column moving with the length of pipe as described below. Each day it's a tiny bit better. I spray the PB in, I work the column, PB spray comes out the bottom, repeat. I'm just going to keep this up, get the column as loose as I can, fill it again with oil, put it all back together and see how the steering wheel feels. If it's still to tight for my tiny wife to move it, then I'll suck it up and get a new relay.

[cnfowler]

Sounds like a good plan. If there wasn't any oil in it to begin with, things can get a bit nasty/gummy inside. The PB Blaster will certainly help, maybe even WD-40 or kerosene to clean it out/de-gunk it. Keep it up, you're going down the right road. As you've seen from my pictures, there's really nothing inside the relay to fail. Once it gets cleaned out and properly lubed, I see no reason why it won't work like it's essentially new.


Colin

[dwmcompton]

Quick update. After daily "soakings" with WD-40 and PB spray for the past week or so and by working the relay with a length of pipe attached to one of the arms, I think I'm now in good shape. I put it all back together, filled the relay with oil and had my 10 year old turn the steering wheel and he had no trouble doing so. Of course the heavy tires are off, but seems like I'm in good shape here. Thanks for all the good advice everyone.

[cnfowler]

Glad to hear it worked out for you. It took a while, but at least it was basically a free repair. Those are always nice.


Colin