Head Gasket replacement

[tomster10]

What tools and time would be required to replace a head gasket on a 2.25 petrol? Could it be done in a parking lot?

[slowmo]

Possibly. I changed a burnt exhaust valve (1961 MG Midget) on the side of a highway...but I had all the spares. I was in western Kansas though and a thousand miles from anything so it was necessary. If you can move it I would recommend that. I am assuming you haven't done this before or you wouldn't have asked. There is a learning curve involved, but if you are pretty good with a wrench you could possibly do it in a parking lot, but I recommend moving it.

You'll need to drain and catch the coolant of course. Normal tools (screw drivers for clamps, sockets, etc) plus torque wrench for the head bolts and feeler gauge for the valve clearances once the head bolts are torqued up. You'll want the manual of course and follow closely the order of tightening and torquing the head bolts. Then you'll put the truck in 4th gear and push it until the valves are in the proper location for adjustment. For a first time head gasket job I would guess the better part of a day...maybe less.

Good luck!

[rwollschlager]

What tools and time would be required to replace a head gasket on a 2.25 petrol? Could it be done in a parking lot?


yes with the right tools and spares you can do it in parking lot in short order. I changed mine in BF Nebraska in a few hours. Slowmo is right, you'll need receptacles for coolant, a piece of cardboard to keep track of the pushrods, feeler gauges, torque wrench, razor to clean old gasket surfaces, new valve cover gasket while you're at it, and make sure your radiator hoses (upper, lower, and bypass) are in good shape and won't disintegrate by removing and attempting to refit them. You can save a ton of time by leaving the intake/exhaust manifolds attached to the head, and just removing the downpipe. Consult the green bible for torque settings and sequence. Good luck!

[lumpydog]

yes with the right tools and spares you can do it in parking lot in short order. I changed mine in BF Nebraska in a few hours. Slowmo is right, you'll need receptacles for coolant, a piece of cardboard to keep track of the pushrods, feeler gauges, torque wrench, razor to clean old gasket surfaces, new valve cover gasket while you're at it, and make sure your radiator hoses (upper, lower, and bypass) are in good shape and won't disintegrate by removing and attempting to refit them. You can save a ton of time by leaving the intake/exhaust manifolds attached to the head, and just removing the downpipe. Consult the green bible for torque settings and sequence. Good luck!

Don't forget to remove the oil supply pipe (rear of block).

[slowmo]

Rereading your post, if the parking lot is at your apartment complex or something...yup. That's where you can do it. Somehow I was envisioning the parking lot at a Walmart. If at all possible get the truck "home" and do it there so you can pop a brewski or kick the neighbors cat when you need a break.

[64Blue]

What tools and time would be required to replace a head gasket on a 2.25 petrol? Could it be done in a parking lot?

Yes. In a parking lot. 3 hours on the clock. That's with two beers and not trying for a land speed record. And I removed and replaced both intake and exhast manifolds. I generally don't remove the valve train when I have done these. Leave it intact. Label the valves in a box for the right replacement. Have new oil and coolant onsite. Otherwise it's a torque wrench sockets and a few combo wrenches along with the feeler gauges. I scraped the decks with a razor blade.

[cnfowler]

...kick the neighbors cat when you need a break.


Literally laughed out loud at that!!


Colin

[Partsman]

Literally laughed out loud at that!!


Colin

Me too! Also keep in mind that these are NOT the lightest things in the world, you may need to have a mate handy to give you a lift assist, especially if you leave the manifold assembly attached.