Front wheel wobble

[Opabob]

I've done some searches but only found discussion of 'death wobbles'. This is not a death wobble. What is happening is that driver side front wheel/rim is moving out on each rotation in the same spot ca. 1/8 to 1/4 inch with the wheel jacked up. When driving the wobble is noticeable to anyone standing in front of the truck as it comes toward them. I've switched around tires and wheels and this still happens, so I figure something is wrong or worn in the hub. Has anyone seen this before or can refer me to links that discuss how to diagnose this issue and fix it? Thanks!

[parrie]

Did the wobble suddenly arise or has it been an ongoing issue? Can you feel it while driving? Possibly bad bearing in the hub but would most likely it would be making some ugly noises as well. Pulling the hub for inspection is a pretty simple procedure. Do you have the green bible?

[Opabob]

No idea how long the wobble has been there, but I think for some time. My eagle eyed wife noticed the wobble when following me the other day. Nothing is noticeable when driving; no vibration or ugly noise even at speed (if 50 mph is speed). I'll pull out the green bible and look at the hub and bearings. I have Warn locking hubs on the wheels, so will need to study the steps involved before I tackle this. My mechanical brain (aka son-in-law)is thinking bearings as well. Thanks for the advice.

[lumpydog]

Did you check to see if the drum was wobbling too? Do you feel pulsing in the brakes? Could be the drum is not seated properly. You'd likely feel it in the brakes but maybe not. Try hitting the drum with a rubber mallet to get it to seat all the way.

When jacked up, can you wobble it by by hand? (not spinning the tire but altrenately pushing pulling the right/left side of the tire)? Any play left to right while jacked up would point to bearings. Absent that, try alternately pushing/pulling the top and bottom of the wheel. Any play would have me looking at the swivel pin and lower pin bearing.

[Opabob]

Did you check to see if the drum was wobbling too? Do you feel pulsing in the brakes? Could be the drum is not seated properly. You'd likely feel it in the brakes but maybe not. Try hitting the drum with a rubber mallet to get it to seat all the way.

When jacked up, can you wobble it by by hand? (not spinning the tire but altrenately pushing pulling the right/left side of the tire)? Any play left to right while jacked up would point to bearings. Absent that, try alternately pushing/pulling the top and bottom of the wheel. Any play would have me looking at the swivel pin and lower pin bearing.

It was the drum. All fixed now. Actually the drum had been in the back of my mind. When I pulled the wheel off I noticed the hold down screw for the drum was not fully seated. Turns out it was in the wrong hole. Once I got that screw seated right the wobble went away...and the brake pulsing. Easy, cheap fix for once :) Thanks to both of you for helping me!

[cedryck]

It was the drum. All fixed now. Actually the drum had been in the back of my mind. When I pulled the wheel off I noticed the hold down screw for the drum was not fully seated. Turns out it was in the wrong hole. Once I got that screw seated right the wobble went away...and the brake pulsing. Easy, cheap fix for once :) Thanks to both of you for helping me!

It is always a good idea to periodically jack up each wheel, and hold the tire at 9 and 3 O'clock and check for play in wheel bearings by pushing on one hand while pulling on the other, this can tell you a lot, especially if your wheel bearings are loose,,,

[o2batsea]

I think you mean 6 and 12...

[I Leak Oil]

Play at 9 and 3 could be many things. Go 6 and 12 as Bill suggested. That pretty much limits any play to wheel bearings or swivel bushings.

[cedryck]

Yeah, What he said,

[ignotus]

​9 and 3 will tell you wheel bearing, 12 and 6 will tell you swivel bushings.

[I Leak Oil]

9-3 could be tie rod ends, relay, loose steering arms etc.
Stay 6-12 my friend...

[SafeAirOne]

9-3 could be tie rod ends, relay, loose steering arms etc.
Stay 6-12 my friend...

Yup.

[chuckstp]

It appears as if I aim to keep this thread alive a bit longer. Over the summer I developed a wobble in the front driver's (left hand drive) side. It only wobbles when I hit a bump, after which it tends to realign and run smoothly. This happened after hauling firewood off some mountain roads.

After jacking up the vehicle I found some play top to bottom (12 to 6 o'clock) which was not present side to side. The right side wheel did not do this. I took off the wheel and it appears this issue is in the swivel and not the drum as the original post.

As I can tell, I've got some down time to even find the cause of the problem. Before I start digging into it, I'd like to get a heads up on as much as I can.

1. How do I tell if I have an early or late type of the housing? Is it sufficient to look at the ball joint type. It appears I have the later type with the rods on top.

2. What part/parts are likely to have been damaged, and how do I determine which need to be replaced?

3. What additional parts are typically replaced when digging into the housing>'

4. Are there any special tools required?

5. How much beer will be required to bribe the help I need during the process?

[o2batsea]

In for a penny...
You might as well count on replacing all the consumables as long as you are going to pull it apart. That will be all the seals, gaskets, the railko bush and top pin, shims, u-joint and tie rod ends. I'd repack the bearings and do a new distance piece and inner seal. Might as well do the brakes. pop for new shoes, and wheel cylinders. Don't forget new nut keepers.
Inspect the swivels for pitting.
It'll take you roughly two-three hours per side including jacking and blocking and clean up.
I don't recommend drinking when working on elevated vehicles.

[cnfowler]

...It'll take you roughly two-three hours per side including jacking and blocking and clean up...

You work much faster than I do, Bill!


Colin

[chuckstp]

Well, I managed to get started up to the point of removing the stub axle from the swivel pin housing. Are there any special tricks for separating the two? I would rather not find out how much persuasion is too much.

[Les Parker]

So, you can see the Stub axle and it's still bolted to the swivel housing?
After taking the six bolts out a "sharp" tap should release the stub axle from the housing. You'll be severing a bond between two metal surfaces and a gasket with sealant on, both metal parts are machined with close tolerances to ensure a good fit. A small engineers hammer should do it, not a 2lb lump hammer !

Hope this helps.

[chuckstp]

I had to resort to tapping the joint to the stub axle with a wood chisel. After about the 6th tap, it released its grip. I am down to one uncooperative bolt on the main housing at the moment but thanks for the suggestion.

[chuckstp]

Among the many purchases, I bought a Railco bush and a wafer. Surprisingly the bush I took out did not appear to have the magic damping material in the bush. Anyway, the new bush appears to have a wafer already. Does this get added to my spare parts bin or do both of these go in the assembly?