Sticking brake shoe

[SirGeorgeSt]

I've read the Forum String on the "Brake Problems in a Series III", and have a similar aggravating problem on my '71 2A 88". My right rear brake will not release from the drum every time. I will start off normally from home, and sooner or later when I apply the brakes, all but the right rear will release. I can always tell, because it won't roll on a gentle incline, comes to a non-free-rolling stop, and is quite obviously engaged. And makes the vehicle drive slower than it should (though that's hard to tell with a Series 2A!) The drums, shoes, hydraulic lines and slave cylinders are all new as of a year ago (it hasn't been driven much since then), installed by a Rover specialist here in Utah. I thought it was an adjustment problem, but 12 times re-adjusting hasn't done it. The drum overheated a LOT the first couple of times. (Can you say blue drums?) I switched rear drums, sanded the edges and surface of the shoes, and made sure all was clean. This is getting ridiculous. Maybe the brake springs are weak.?? I'm running out of ideas. I've already replaced the front shoes because the others groaned so bad I was waking people up a block away. Help!

[TeriAnn]

Sounds like brake fluid is getting into the wheel cylinder under presure but the spring is not strong enough to push the extra fluid out. Or weak spring or extra resistance in wheel cylinder. If it were me I'd disconnect the steel brake line going to that cylinder and blow it out with compressed air. Look for kinks in the steel line. If it is kinked or flattened replace the line. If you have still not found the problem undo the other rear steel line an d look inside the 'T' to make sure it is clear.

It is not unusual for the passage inside the brake cylinder to be clogged after a rebuild. If the line is clear, pul the wheel cylinder, disassemble it and blow air through the ports.

make sure your brake return spring is not broken.

The observation that it is just one wheel isolates the problem from the brake line "T" outwards.

[cedryck]

I had a similar problem with a rear wheel, dragging brake shoe making intense amount of heat to the drum and wheel. The wheel cylinder was badly sticking and keeping the shoe forced into the drum despite new return springs. I needed to replace the wheel cylinder on that wheel and bleed the system. The age of the wheel cylinder I replaced was only 5 or so years old.

[SirGeorgeSt]

Thanks, Fellers (& TeriAnn)! I will look into those several possibilities. Sometimes driving a Series Land Rover is a drag, but this is getting old!

[cedryck]

Thanks, Fellers (& TeriAnn)! I will look into those several possibilities. Sometimes driving a Series Land Rover is a drag, but this is getting old!
Hang in there, you will figure it out, mine dragged so badly that I Smelled it before pacing my hand on the rim, and could fry an egg, Yes driving a series rover makes mechanics out of owners, cheers!

[blueseriesii]

When working on brake systems I always coat the pistons and rubber inside the wheel cylinders with a light coating of silicone grease. I then smear LOTS of grease into the bores after assembly and then into the rubber boots as well.

I then coat the outsides of the boots as well making sure to smear around where the boot seals against the cylinder after assembly. This seems to prevent any moisture from corroding the internal parts and has worked for me for years. Any other suggestions ? Hope this helps.

[blueseriesii]

One possibility is a loose adjuster for that brake shoe. The adjuster has a spring washer just under the head of the adjusting nut which tensions it preventing it from turning on it's own. If that spring washer is broken there will be no tension holding the adjusting cam in its proper orientation. As the brakes are applied the shoe comes up off of the adjuster cam thus freeing it up to turn all by itself making that shoe either looser or tighter.