Clutch Failed

[timc930]

I have not had a chance to investigate, but while driving this afternoon the Clutch Pedal lost about half of it's travel, goes in about two inches and just stops, as if it is hitting something, and not sufficient travel to generate enough pressure to engage the clutch. Really strange. Has approx 1/2 the travel as the Brake Pedal now.

I thought I'd post in the event someone that knows the Clutch Pedal configuration may have some idea's, as I won't have time to look into this until next weekend.


tim

[cedryck]

First check to see if there is any obstruction to the pedal, or moving parts in the pedal box. That's where I would start, eliminating that first, then I would check the mechanicals at the throw out bearing,,

[timc930]

First check to see if there is any obstruction to the pedal, or moving parts in the pedal box. That's where I would start, eliminating that first, then I would check the mechanicals at the throw out bearing,,

Thanks. This is a "hard stop" as if the pedal was hitting the end of it's physical travel limitation. If the issue was the release bearing, or something down stream from physical contact with the pedal, due to it being hydraulic, I'd get a spongy stop, as the fluid would take up some compression.

I'll take a look in the pedal box this weekend. I was just curious if someone has experienced this before.

[timc930]

Thanks. This is a "hard stop" as if the pedal was hitting the end of it's physical travel limitation. If the issue was the release bearing, or something down stream from physical contact with the pedal, due to it being hydraulic, I'd get a spongy stop, as the fluid would take up some compression.

I'll take a look in the pedal box this weekend. I was just curious if someone has experienced this before.

SO I stand Corrected, i thought I would get a spongy pedal if the problem was downstream from the Clutch Master Cylinder, but I guess not.

I removed/loosened the fitting on the Clutch Master Cylinder Outlet line, and I was able push the pedal to the floor, so this eliminated mechanical obstruction with pedal and Clutch Master Cylinder. I then rebleed the Clutch Master via the outlet line fixing nut.

I then crawled under the truck and noticed the Slave Cylinder Push Rod appeared to be fully extended, I was able to push this back up into the Slave Cylinder, after which I was able to press the Clutch Pedal all the way to the floor, ONE TIME. The next time I had maybe 20% Pedal Travel before the pedal hit hard stop.

My guess is the Pressure plate has collapsed as I am able to grab the Clutch Release Bearing Operating Lever and move it up and down, it's full travel parameters, very easily.

I guess a Clutch Replacement is now in order. I'll search thru the threads for Clutch Replacement to see what I have to remove to slide the Tranny back/out.

Went ahead and pulled the trans cover, floors, and seatbox in prep. Clutch was feeling weak anyway so good thing I had this problem close to home. Looks like it's pretty easy to just slide the trans back with a trans jack. May need some virtual help on setting all the free-play adjustments back up afterwards though. The release linkage at the Slave looks good. I can easily push the linkage up and down. I can't find any diagrams that show a release bearing configuration with the PP though, so I am not sure how that works.

After further investigation, it appears that a hoist is is the way to go so you don't have to worry about the floor jack hitting the crossmembers.

[Basil6]

Stop. Before you touch the tranny or perform surgery -Check one of the two cross shaft clevis pins. Cheap maybe 2 or 3 dollar part. What you describe is exactly what happens when that little bugger fails. Theres 2 of them. Don't just replace the one thats broken. Replace them both. You've ripped the floors out - and if you just replace the broke un, you'll be tearing up the floors again in 3 weeks when the other one breaks. When ever I have the floors out for anything, I always always replace the master cyl and both of those pins. If I don't and just replace one of the 3, then in a week............ Well............. It's a Land Rover.........

[timc930]

Stop. Before you touch the tranny or perform surgery -Check one of the two cross shaft clevis pins. Cheap maybe 2 or 3 dollar part. What you describe is exactly what happens when that little bugger fails. Theres 2 of them. Don't just replace the one thats broken. Replace them both. You've ripped the floors out - and if you just replace the broke un, you'll be tearing up the floors again in 3 weeks when the other one breaks. When ever I have the floors out for anything, I always always replace the master cyl and both of those pins. If I don't and just replace one of the 3, then in a week............ Well............. It's a Land Rover.........

Thanks, That's not my prob, as I've already checked that out, but based on your advice, I will be replacing BOTH clevis pins. Anything else that I should replace while I have it torn apart????

tim

[LaneRover]

When ever I have the floors out for anything, I always always replace the master cyl and both of those pins. If I don't and just replace one of the 3, then in a week............ Well............. It's a Land Rover.........

You don't replace the slave cylinder?

[Basil6]

Sorry. I meant slave not master.

[nantley79]

What did you ever find out about this? I think I have the exact same problem and have suspected my pressure plate being the culprit. But 5 years later I still haven't opened it up...

[timc930]

What did you ever find out about this? I think I have the exact same problem and have suspected my pressure plate being the culprit. But 5 years later I still haven't opened it up...

So after pulling the trans and removing the clutch, the pressure plate was fine, so I looked very closely at the two clevis pins. They looked fine, but, when I started to remove them, I found that both were broken in half, but both ends were still in tact, so it was very deceiving. I'm still glad I pulled the tranny as it gave me the opportunity to clean everything, and I still machined the FW and replaced the clutch with the 9.5 version from host. Also, most of the bolts for the driveshaft and transmission/engine were only hand tight, with many actually missing. Both trans mounts were toast as well, so overall it turned out to be a very productive project. Just got the tranny back in tonight, so tomorrow i'll be installing the handbrake and putting the beatbox and floors back in.