busted motor mount?

[Hauser]

This is one of those, "how bad does this look?" threads. The 2.25 petrol motor is a recentish replacement (4 years ago) but the front two motor mounts are looking rough. The rubber is cracked. The right side looks like it's getting worse. It looks like the top rubber puck is starting to slide off the metal disk underneath it, like it's shearing. I haven't located the rear two that, I guess, are on the transmission somewhere. I've read that the motor can slide forward bringing the fan into contact with the radiator. Since that would be bad, am I on the verge of that happening? Should I not be driving it in this condition?

Also, any good tips on replacing the mounts? I've read some people saying to put a board under the sump/oil pan and jack from there but am really concerned about caving that in. And where should I jack the transmission? A board under the bellhousing/fly wheel? Or by the transfer case where the propshafts are located?


Also, am I going to have to remove the seats and access panels to get at them or can I get them from underneath? The engine mounts look nice and rust free since, well, the engine has been out within the last 4 years. The rear mounts should be the same although I haven't looked yet.


Last thing, that green wire there in the pic is not connected. Any idea what it goes to? The oil filter can has two wires attached and you can see that in the pic (one is split and damaged though, will fix that soon)... so the thing doesn't go to the oil pressure sensor, I don't think. I have a gauge for alternator (reads C-D), oil pressure which works even though one of the lines from the sending unit is cut, and two water temp gauges. The one on the speedometer works (read H-C) but the separate one that gives me the actual temp does not. So if the wire goes to a sending unit I'd think it's for the water temp but the sensor would have to be in the block somewhere given the length of the wire. While the car is a '73 the motor is older, has the view window on the bell housing to set timing and an oil filler neck with vent cap instead of a cap on the valve cover. Maybe the original engine had another water temp sensor and the new 'old' one doesn't... Any ideas?


Sorry for all the daft questions. I've done some searching for motor mount replacements and haven't found much, just a lot of complaining from the diesel guys about severe engine rattle :p

11994

[cedryck]

Removing the seats, and then the seatbox will give you very nice access to everything underneath. Much easier to work from the top then from below.

[o2batsea]

I'm not sure since it has been almost 20 years since I did the mounts on a 2.25, but I think you just need to jack up the engine enough to clear the bolts on the rubber thingies. Not sure that you have to undo much.

[Les Parker]

A good, stout wooden block under the oil pan and a jack, or use the engine top brackets and an engine hoist if you prefer the safety and protection of the oil sump.
For the transmission, again either the jack or engine hoist (worth renting one if you do not have one).

[Hauser]

I got the new mounts in the mail a few days ago and put two new ones on the engine. I've yet to do the transmission, but may tonight.

I went with the proline diesel mounts (the square ones). I had read that they are thicker than the round and can confirm. I was pretty certain the fan would rub on the plastic fan shroud but it clears, but only just. I jacked the engine using a 2X6 placed on the oil pan and had no issues with the pan denting or caving, which was good.

However, I had to trim some length off the bolts on the right hand side (passenger side) mount. There's still plenty of thread past the nuts, so it's fine, but there was no way it was going to fit back in as it was, even with the motor jacked up as high as it would go. I removed the bracket the mount fits in from the body, removed the old mount, installed the new mount into the bracket on my workbench, and then installed the whole bracket/mount assembly back onto the car. As stated, the mount studs were too long to let the whole assembly slide under the bracket on the engine so I trimmed them.

On the passenger side I ended up having to cut a 17mm wrench in half to get the nut off the bottom of the mount (on this side the chassis side bracket is welded to the chassis so cannot be removed). I removed the bracket from the engine on this side to get more space to work in, but even then it was very tight even with the "half wrench." I had some problems breaking the nut free, the stud seemed to want to twist inside the rubber of the mount and the mount itself twists of course, so I clamped the mount down to the bracket tight using a big set of vise grips but I suppose a c-clamp would have been better and given more space.

Overall, it looked like an easy job. The nuts are easy enough to spot but not at all easy to get off! No wrenches were thrown but there were a few close calls.

Oh, and the right hand side mount was totally separated which was strange because it looked to be in good shape otherwise. The left hand side was out of round from the force of the engine pushing against it, it was probably quite close to letting go itself.

The green manual was not exactly helpful - I read the bit about removing the engine and it just says, "remove the rubber fixings." Well no **** Sherlock. It'd be nice to be told the brackets have to come off and that the nuts on the mounts should be loosed first, if accessible.

Anyone have any tricks for getting at the left hand side (driver's side) nut on the underside of the mount? A socket would do wonders but there isn't space against the body for a regular socket let alone a deep well... even with a swivel. It's not on there exactly super tight, I mean I can't exactly snug it down tight with a half length wrench.