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ccbullet
10-11-2016, 03:39 PM
I am a relatively new forum member, and only a lurker so far. But seeing the other post today about a 66 Series IIA, I wanted to put my project out there.

This will be a project for me and my son to work on over the next couple of years. Long story short, it seems as if someone did a pretty decent restoration on this thing 10-20 years ago, but then it sat in a field in Florida for 5-10 years. It had a Southern Overland Company sticker on it, and the owner of that firm said it was his yard that it sat in for a while.

It ended up with me in NY a few months ago. The body and galvanized frame are in really good shape, but the bulkhead is rotten. I want to turn this into a beach wagon that is also capable of taking some mountain bikes into the hills. I don't plan on ever having a top on it.

So far, I've just been cleaning and ripping things out and just knocking out some of the easier repairs, mapping out the wiring (with the help of a map I found on a UK forum, etc.). The biggest pain in the ass right now is the seat box and floor panels. I ripped out the rotted seats, but every single nut/bolt/screw in this area is rusted beyond the effectiveness of WD-40/PB Blaster, so that's going very slow. Just bought an angle grinder, so that might get some action soon.

Here are pics (to be updated as much as possible): http://imgur.com/a/Ewl6z

I've been doing a bit of research on the bigger jobs while chipping away at some of the low-hanging fruit.

I'm sure I'll need a bulkhead. Looked into a new one from Pegasus Parts (UK) but they don't answer their emails or phones. Had a couple leads on refurbushed ones closer to NY, but nothing has worked out yet.

I've researched disc brake conversions. Leaning toward Forbyn Bros. They tell me that I'll need a new brake tower, especially if I want to have a dual master. The brake and clutch towers are rusted out, so I'll replace those when I do the bulkhead anyway.

The gas pedal mechanism was completely frozen, but some WD-40 sessions got it working perfectly. The parking brake was frozen, but I have that working now.

Bought a new electronic ignition system and new coil from Pertronix, with new cables (from RoversNorth) and plugs (Amazon). I'd like to try to get the engine running soon, but I want to check the fuel systems from tank to pump before I do that.

Bought an AC Delco alternator (Amazon) and a new bracket from Ike at Pangolon.
Bought replacement splash guards and under seat battery box from RoversNorth.
Bought a K&N air filter.
Bought a spin-on oil filter from Rocky Mountain Products.
Bought a galvanized tow hitch from Ike at Pangolin.

It's going to be an expensive project, but I'd like this to become a family heirloom to hand down over the years.

I'm pretty new to all of this, so I am learning as I go. Any advice is much appreciated. I always wonder if someone on these forums will recognize this beast...we'll see.

cnfowler
10-11-2016, 04:09 PM
After looking at the pictures, I'm really curious as to why you believe 'someone did a pretty decent restoration' on it at some point.


Colin

ccbullet
10-11-2016, 04:36 PM
Well, perhaps that was generous. I guess I meant that someone put some care into it at some point. It has a galvanized chassis, which I'd guess isn't original. At some point it seems the chassis and undercarriage was coated with some type of protectant. It was resprayed from Marine Blue to Limestone. Granted this care was probably a long time ago, then the years of neglect was obviously more recent (and shows more prominently in the photos).

cnfowler
10-11-2016, 06:19 PM
Figured there was something you were seeing that wasn't apparent in the photos. Glad to hear it has landed in the hands of someone that will put some time and love back into it.


Colin

parrie
10-12-2016, 06:03 AM
I am a relatively new forum member, and only a lurker so far. But seeing the other post today about a 66 Series IIA, I wanted to put my project out there.

This will be a project for me and my son to work on over the next couple of years. Long story short, it seems as if someone did a pretty decent restoration on this thing 10-20 years ago, but then it sat in a field in Florida for 5-10 years. It had a Southern Overland Company sticker on it, and the owner of that firm said it was his yard that it sat in for a while.

It ended up with me in NY a few months ago. The body and galvanized frame are in really good shape, but the bulkhead is rotten. I want to turn this into a beach wagon that is also capable of taking some mountain bikes into the hills. I don't plan on ever having a top on it.

So far, I've just been cleaning and ripping things out and just knocking out some of the easier repairs, mapping out the wiring (with the help of a map I found on a UK forum, etc.). The biggest pain in the ass right now is the seat box and floor panels. I ripped out the rotted seats, but every single nut/bolt/screw in this area is rusted beyond the effectiveness of WD-40/PB Blaster, so that's going very slow. Just bought an angle grinder, so that might get some action soon.

Here are pics (to be updated as much as possible): http://imgur.com/a/3L8DD

I've been doing a bit of research on the bigger jobs while chipping away at some of the low-hanging fruit.

I'm sure I'll need a bulkhead. Looked into a new one from Pegasus Parts (UK) but they don't answer their emails or phones. Had a couple leads on refurbushed ones closer to NY, but nothing has worked out yet.

I've researched disc brake conversions. Leaning toward Forbyn Bros. They tell me that I'll need a new brake tower, especially if I want to have a dual master. The brake and clutch towers are rusted out, so I'll replace those when I do the bulkhead anyway.

The gas pedal mechanism was completely frozen, but some WD-40 sessions got it working perfectly. The parking brake was frozen, but I have that working now.

Bought a new electronic ignition system and new coil from Pertronix, with new cables (from RoversNorth) and plugs (Amazon). I'd like to try to get the engine running soon, but I want to check the fuel systems from tank to pump before I do that.

Bought an AC Delco alternator (Amazon) and a new bracket from Ike at Pangolon.
Bought replacement splash guards and under seat battery box from RoversNorth.
Bought a K&N air filter.
Bought a spin-on oil filter from Rocky Mountain Products.
Bought a galvanized tow hitch from Ike at Pangolin.

It's going to be an expensive project, but I'd like this to become a family heirloom to hand down over the years.

I'm pretty new to all of this, so I am learning as I go. Any advice is much appreciated. I always wonder if someone on these forums will recognize this beast...we'll see.

Looks to be a great restore/refurbish candidate...galvanized frame is key IMO.

Does she run?

I've seen alot worse bulkheads but yes, looks like it needs a fair amount of attention or replacement...how are the door pillars? There is a gent in New York that rebuilds bulkheads. He offers several different options including galvanized dipped and he is very reasonable...all he asks is that you send him your trashed bulkhead. I can't remember his name but if you check out the Guns and Rovers forum someone will have his info.

If the seat box is too far gone get in touch w/ Ike, he usually has them available.

Disc brake conversion...I guess you're serious about this! Probably one of the best upgrades you can do to make it safer for the family.

Congratulations & good luck!

ccbullet
10-12-2016, 10:18 AM
Looks to be a great restore/refurbish candidate...galvanized frame is key IMO.

Does she run?

If the seat box is too far gone get in touch w/ Ike, he usually has them available.

Congratulations & good luck!

I didn't try to get it running yet. The starter turned over when I got it, but the ignition didn't spark. I have the parts to overhaul the ignition system, but wanted to feel better about the fuel system before I tried anything. I have a start up procedure I plan to follow carefully.

The seat box itself is fine...it's just that every single nut/blot/screw is giving me a hard time.

mongoswede
10-12-2016, 01:17 PM
I have a ready to go series IIA bulkhead I have been holding onto for several years now. I picked it up used and had to do minimal repairs to it and then it was sandblasted, primed, and painted in Royal Blue. PM me about details/price if interested. I am located in Vermont.

parrie
10-13-2016, 06:40 AM
I didn't try to get it running yet. The starter turned over when I got it, but the ignition didn't spark. I have the parts to overhaul the ignition system, but wanted to feel better about the fuel system before I tried anything. I have a start up procedure I plan to follow carefully.

The seat box itself is fine...it's just that every single nut/blot/screw is giving me a hard time.

Well at least it turned over so it's not stuck. How long since it last ran? It may be worth pulling the valve cover & inspect the valve train real quick to see if everything is moving & check clearances. When I purchased my '61 it had been sitting long enough that a couple valves were stuck...when the seller fired her up ended up bending couple push rods. Luckily the tappets were OK and the damage was confined to the rods.

o2batsea
10-13-2016, 02:09 PM
yeh there's no "they" at pegasus parts. It's just Paul.

I Leak Oil
10-13-2016, 05:16 PM
VIN tag looks a little funny.

mearstrae
10-14-2016, 07:34 AM
VIN tag looks a little funny.
Seems like the first three digits were over stamped for some reason. A LR Registry check might throw some light on this.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

cedryck
10-14-2016, 08:08 AM
Why would someone want to change the VIN number?

parrie
10-14-2016, 11:42 AM
Why would someone want to change the VIN number?

No one can know for sure why but I don't believe it is uncommon which is a good case for researching before you buy. Several scenarios I can think of if the original tag was missing...to match the advertised year...88" and 109" have different vin number ranges, there are also different vin number ranges for homeland or export. The tag does look like it has been re-stamped...the depressions appear to be much deeper and more pronounced than I have seen on most. I did a check on LR fact site...I couldn't find an exact match but the range does fall into 1966 88" IIa for export. I've seen vin tags that are very hard to read...perhaps someone just re-stamped so that the numbers were legible.

ccbullet
01-06-2017, 11:54 AM
Thanks for the insight, parrie. Hopefully it's just for legibility. With winter coming, I'm trying to spend some more time in the garage, so hopefully I start making more progress soon. Just revisiting roversnorth right now to order a new clutch master and a new radiator.

ccbullet
01-24-2018, 12:35 AM
Well at least it turned over so it's not stuck.

Well...I'm finally getting some time to revisit this. It seems stuck. Tried to turn the engine by hand, and it won't budge. I thought I was fine based on the fact that the starter turned over, but maybe I was missing something.