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IIA
11-05-2016, 04:08 PM
I got a new fuel tank from our hosts about 2-3 years ago after my previous (original?) rusted out and began leaking. My mechanic said he sprayed it with something to protect it from rust. (I don't know what but he had a Ph.D in engineering and otherwise did good work so I assume it was nothing corrosive--can't ask now as he's died.)

Now the new one appears to have rusted at the bottom seams and is oozing fuel. Could this be a flaw in the tank? Or could something else have happened? I put Stabil in the tank when I fill up (petrol) and I don't do off-roading (though my driveway is dirt), nor do I live in an area that puts lots of salt on the road (some, but just a few times/winter).

At the risk of putting 2 questions in one post--is there anything that can be done besides replacing the tank again?

cedryck
11-07-2016, 08:05 AM
Some people use a coating that is washed around on the inside of the tank to "seal" it. Discouraging to hear a new tank only held up 2-3 years. In my opinion a stock tank is subject to failure by design, the seams and edges separate and then leak, the metal is subject to corrosion. So having said that, a unit made of stainless, or aluminum , would be better.

blueseriesii
11-07-2016, 08:19 AM
I have repaired my tank using epoxy resin. I first cleaned with one quart of water and one quart of gravel up to 1/2". Shake shake shake etc until the rinse water comes out clean. After drying in the sun for two days I poured in 2 cups pf West System Epoxy Resin. Next time I would use their new G-flex resin, it's much more flexible. If there is a large hole patch it with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin on the outside. This has worked for me for many years.

lumpydog
11-07-2016, 12:43 PM
Marine-Tex (https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-Mighty-Repair-14-Ounce/dp/B001446LMW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478544210&sr=8-2&keywords=marine+tex+rapid+set) works really well when patching from the exterior as well.

IIA
11-07-2016, 09:02 PM
From the looks of the rust on the outside, I'm guessing I'd need to pour something inside to seal the pinholes. But if I have to go to all the hassle of removing the tank, I might go for a new one instead. Does anyone sell aluminum or stainless tanks for a Series IIA? Or is that a custom job? I only saw the Proline model on RN's site.

tolonian
11-07-2016, 11:01 PM
I believe Ike at Pangolan 4x4 is now selling SS tanks. Or there's the Spectra tanks. I also have a 70 IIA,I don't think Ike's tanks have the second pickup cutout for the line to the expansion tank.

stomper
11-08-2016, 11:29 AM
Yes, Ike at Pangolin4x4 now has stainless steel tanks available. There was a group buy of aluninium ones done by a group over on Guns and Rovers. The CAD plans are available if you want to go that route as well. You would need to find a tank shop that would build it for you, and would likely need to find enough buyers to get them done relatively cheaply in bulk.

cedryck
11-08-2016, 12:28 PM
Sounds expensive. $$ Does anyone know about how much Ike is getting per unit?

stomper
11-08-2016, 05:25 PM
He just posted pictures of them on Facebook. No price listed. Pretty easy to call and find out though.

cnfowler
11-09-2016, 09:44 PM
~$200 for a Spectra tank. Well built and no leaks.


Colin

IIA
11-14-2016, 05:08 PM
I started to try removing the tank and the nuts are rusted. I supposed I shouldn't be surprised. I've tried soaking them with PB Blaster but they're too rusty. I might buy a nut splitter but I've read that they're not much good. Is there any safe way to use an angle grinder or a torch near the tank? I've drained it. Would it be safe when I can no longer smell fumes?

stomper
11-14-2016, 05:36 PM
I've always had luck with using a long breaker bar, and twisting the nut until the bolt twists off. If that doesn't work, I'd try a sawzall or a grinder next. Are you talking about the mounting bolts that hold the tank to the outrigger?

If you are scared, fill the tank with water.

leafsprung
11-15-2016, 01:53 AM
Got sick of boiling,, acid dipping, welding and soldering on fuel tanks. Had some issues with aluminum - Stainless is the answer

cedryck
11-15-2016, 09:57 AM
Curious what issues did you have with AL?

IIA
11-15-2016, 03:43 PM
The problem is with the bolts on the back end of the tank. There's not enough room in there for a breaker bar. The farthest one is the worst. I can barely get my hand in there to hold a wrench. I like the water suggestion. I'll try some cutting this weekend.

mrmoose
11-16-2016, 08:24 AM
I grabbed the top with a box end wrench or in the worst case scenario I used vise grips then hammered a socket on to the all but rusted off bottom and hit it with the impact gun, that turned them all off. Only downside is I need new bolts, darn eh.

cedryck
11-16-2016, 02:14 PM
Got sick of boiling,, acid dipping, welding and soldering on fuel tanks. Had some issues with aluminum - Stainless is the answer

The only thing that I can think of that would make a dramatic improvement besides Stainless steel as a material, is fabricating an extra layer of 3/16 flat on the bottom for protection. Cheers,

IIA
01-07-2017, 03:22 PM
After much delay I'm finally back at this project. I got the bolts off with an angle grinder and I decided to coat the tank with a POR15 kit and defer buying a stainless tank until later. So I've just put the metal prep in the tank and I noticed that it seems to be leaking back out fairly quickly. About half the degreaser/cleaner came out through the holes while I was sloshing it around. The problem is that I can't see any holes so I can't patch them from the outside. I assume that just means lots of pinholes. But my concern with the metal prep is that too much will leak out before it does an adequate job.

How do I know if it's done the job? And if not, is there another kind of metal prep (something cheaper/in larger bulk) that I can put in to continue the job? I'd hate to keep pouring quarts of POR15 in.

erik88lr
01-07-2017, 08:58 PM
I'd hate to keep pouring quarts of POR15 in.

How about just temporarily sealing the pinholes with duct tape from the outside until the POR15 has had a chance to do it's job? I restored an old Jaguar many years ago, and coated the inside of the tank with a sloshing compound I got from a shop that sold parts for antique Fords. It worked great. Can't remember the name though....

Les Parker
01-09-2017, 12:10 PM
How is everyone's thoughts about the negative effects of Ethanol on the steel tank?