Replacing window channels

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  • Armordave
    Low Range
    • Aug 2016
    • 58

    Replacing window channels

    My next job is replacing the window channels on a S2A 109.
    Can anyone provide a link to a blog or thread that provides steps, advice on this subject?
  • slowmo
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2014
    • 225

    #2
    It's quite easy, theoretically. There are little tiny screws holding the channels down. You have to remove those little rusted screws from hell without stripping them so penetrating lubricant is needed. Then you have to place the new channels and hold them down with your third arm which comes out of your forehead. Using your other two hands you have to drill new holes (matching the old ones is just not going to happen). Then you have to find the hole you just drilled because the channel material immediately covers the hole. Then you just have to fish the tiny screws into the hole (you'll see what I mean) and screw them in. Voila.

    I did mine in about 3 hours, but I have fewer windows. However, in the end it was satisfying not to have the windows rattling like crazy and to have reduced the air leaks to something just less than the velocity of the truck.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

    Comment

    • timc930
      1st Gear
      • Jul 2013
      • 117

      #3
      When I did my rear window channels on the 88 a couple of weeks ago, I did not worry about matching the existing holes, I just drilled new ones, and I just decided to mine at the last minute one night out in the driveway with a flashlight. Another project was taking up garage space....
      Tim
      63 IIA 88" (Beach with the dogs)
      05 L322 (Daily)
      95 RRC SWB
      05 E320 (Wife)
      86 930 (Rush on boost, 400HP and climbing....)
      A few boring BMW's for the kids (E30, E36, E46, E53)

      Comment

      • Armordave
        Low Range
        • Aug 2016
        • 58

        #4
        Originally posted by slowmo
        It's quite easy, theoretically. There are little tiny screws holding the channels down. You have to remove those little rusted screws from hell without stripping them so penetrating lubricant is needed. Then you have to place the new channels and hold them down with your third arm which comes out of your forehead. Using your other two hands you have to drill new holes (matching the old ones is just not going to happen). Then you have to find the hole you just drilled because the channel material immediately covers the hole. Then you just have to fish the tiny screws into the hole (you'll see what I mean) and screw them in. Voila.

        I did mine in about 3 hours, but I have fewer windows. However, in the end it was satisfying not to have the windows rattling like crazy and to have reduced the air leaks to something just less than the velocity of the truck.

        LOL that's the way most my upgrades go on this truck. Its never as simple as you expect. I've come to expect the worst and plan for it. The door moldings have been the worst so far; they were frustrating beyond 4 letter words.

        Comment

        • zony
          Low Range
          • Jul 2008
          • 11

          #5
          Try this as a starter... http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LRsideWindow.htm

          Comment

          • timc930
            1st Gear
            • Jul 2013
            • 117

            #6
            I did not nedd to remove the steel latch slide channels as stated in "Removing the old tracks" Step 1 above, I was able to flex this just enough so that all the windows came out from the top. Arthur from RN was kind enough to give me this tip!
            Tim
            63 IIA 88" (Beach with the dogs)
            05 L322 (Daily)
            95 RRC SWB
            05 E320 (Wife)
            86 930 (Rush on boost, 400HP and climbing....)
            A few boring BMW's for the kids (E30, E36, E46, E53)

            Comment

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