New Tank Installed - issues with new sender

[2roverlabs]

I installed a new fuel tank from Rovers North in my Series III 88. I also installed a new ProLine fuel sender rather than a new OEM sender to be cost conscious ($70 vs. $230). Two issues have cropped up with the sender:

1. I took the truck for a shake down cruise before closing the seat box lid over the gas tank. I noticed that during the drive gas had leaked up/out around the base of the fuel sender due to the sloshing of gas in the tank during the drive. I had installed a new gasket between the tank and the sender. I firmly tightened the screws securing the sender. Anyone experience this issue? Any suggestions on remediating?

2. The new Proline sender has two electrical connections (see left picture) while the OEM sender I removed has only one connection (see right picture). When I utilize the connection on the new sender labeled "L" the gas gauge does not register. When I use the connection labeled "M" the gas gauge registers fuel but very slowly and not completely. I put 5 gallons of gas in the truck but the sender and gauge register maybe 1/4 of a tank. The truck is on flat ground so that should not be a factor. Anyone experience this issue with ProLine senders?

I'm tempted to put the original sender back in the truck. I thought since I was upgrading the tank I would upgrade the sender.....

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[bugeye88]

Labs,
As for the fuel seepage around the gasket, use a bit of Permatex Blue or orange on the gasket.
Just a tin coat should do it and stop fuel leakage.As for the sender, I'm not sure for the Proline senders.
Cheers
Rob
Bugeye88

[2roverlabs]

I will try some Permatex. Thanks for the recommendation.

[2roverlabs]

ProLine sender I installed was moving slowly and registered only a fraction of the fuel in the tank. I took Lumpydog's advice and ran a ground from the fixing bolt on the sender to the chassis. The sender/fuel gauge now responds quickly but registers that the tank is full when it only has 5 gallons...Thoughts?

[lumpydog]

Def try your original sender. See what you get for a reading. A lot of Rover ownership is process of elimination. If your original sender was known to be accurate, try it. If it reads the same, then your current sender is worth sticking with - on to the next potential problem in the circuit.

How is your engine temp out of curiosity? Reading same as before? There is a reason why I ask...

[leafsprung]

Some of the replacement tanks often have the threaded holes for the sender open to the tank whereas originally they were blind holes in a fitting soldered to the inside of the tank. You may have some fuel leaking through the threads. Some thread sealant may also help. As for the sender - get the original/correct one.

[ninescorpions]

Right there with you brother on the fuel reading problem. I do not have a leak at my sender however. I did put in a tank sealer and I know some of that got into the sender threads (not a bad thing)...perhaps that helped me. I think both of us have the same task...put the older sender in and see what happens. But there is no reason for the new sender to not be compatible...the proline is the correct one.

Has anyone else put in a new proline sender with good results?

[leafsprung]

RN only list the negative ground sender on their website - this is incorrect for any rover older than 68 with its original gauge. The polarity itself is not important. The "negative earth" designation in this case identifies those vehicles which are originally negative ground (which have a different fuel gauge) If you install a new "negative earth" gauge in an older rover (even if it has been converted to negative ground) it will read incorrectly. It is important that the gauge and sender match one another (early sender with early gauge). The early and late gauge/senders are not compatible with one another as they have different resistance ranges.

[ernest.irw]

I never had a Proline brand but my fuel sender looked similar, it also has two pins instead of one. I believe one of the pin is for fuel indicator and the other for low fuel warning light designed for diesel engine.

This is my simple checklist while I was having problems with my fuel gauge:

1. check fuse
2. check wiring (I have experience this weird problem, the fuel indicator suddenly drop and suddenly it reads again, the culprit turns out that the old wire was so brittle that it only connected by hair thin of wire so it connects and disconnects especially on bumpy roads).
3. check the voltage of the fuel sender wire it should read 10 volt and this wire are directly connected to the voltage regulator located behind the speedometer. The original series 3 volt regulator is a unique old electronic design, when I tested with a multi tester, the needle jumps up and down from 8 to 10 volt and this is normal because it turns out the original volt regulator is not a solid state design.
4. Check Grounding - Fuel sender wire should connect to fuel sender only and should not short circuiting back to chassis (earth) this will cause false fuel reading to be full while the fact it is not. Connect a separate ground cable from one of the screw of the sender to the chassis or to the seat box. Original Series III should have a negative earth. If ground cable is not connected, the fuel gauge needle will rise very slowly and stops at at half of the fuel register.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.