Handed springs

[Erik M.]

I am getting ready to replace the shocks and springs on my LHD IIA, and will most likely go with the original style leaf rather than paras. I want to avoid the lean that some have had issues with handed springs, and a suggestion was to just order two LH for both front and rear. Looking at our hosts' website, the option of specific sides doesn't seem to be available. Does this mean that they are no longer handed, and the leaning is not as much of a concern as in years past?

Also, if you use the stock springs, can you still upgrade the shocks to OME, etc?

E

[TedW]

Hi Eric,

Just curious: why have you chosen the original-style springs vs. the paras?

For your info (just one person's experience) I switched to paras with OME's on my 88, but switched back to the stock Woodhead shocks after I found the OME's to be way too stiff. The paras now ride much, much better than stock leafs ever did(at least for me).

Just pointing this out to say that if you use stock springs you may find the OME's to be overkill.

[Erik M.]

Ted,
My truck is pretty much on the road around town, so I didn't really feel that paras were necessary. I have also heard varying degrees of satisfaction from para users regarding sagging and leaning, so (right now, at least) I have decided to keep it stock.

Thanks for the insight on the OMEs.

E

[mearstrae]

I've been using ProComp shocks and stock springs on my S3 109 (HiCap V-8, weighs less than 3000#) for some time now. Seems to do alright on and off road.

[TeriAnn]

Handed springs were developed for RHD vehicles with the weight of the fuel tank and driver on the same side of the vehicle. Most people with LHD vehicles find that their truck does not site level with handed springs. For LHD vehicles I suggest using the same spring on both sides. I'm not a fan of parabolics because their construction increases side sway and wheel hop off road. Finding good quality steel springs that don't go flat is getting to be a problem. Make an effort to locate new Genuine Land Rover springs. They will be more expensive but will work better and last longer. I don't know if our host carries them, but I'm pretty sure that Pangolin 4X4 has them in stock.

The purpose of shocks is to dampen spring oscillation. How much shock you need depends upon the your spring's characteristics and what kind of surface you drive over. If your truck feels really bouncy stiffer shocks might help. If it feels overly stiff, less stiff shocks might help. Personally I'm running OME shocks in genuine LR leaf springs.

[clearcut]

I have two Nada 1967 109 Station Wagon. Blue is very heavy 109 with full fuel and roof rack from Brown Church.

I fatten the heavy staion rears, and replaced with one ton spring. In the front I the heavy front springs on the left and right side. Why I due have 2.6L Rover F-head and Warn winch up front

See Terri_Ann website for the proper part numbers. The one ton springs only have one part number

On Tan Rover, 109 Station Wagon 2.6. F-head. I still run heavy front springs on left and right side.

You must replace all bushing including the frame bushing. Lot's of work, worth it!

I would only buy the Pro Comp Explorer Shock set from Rocky Mountain. No sure RN has the same part number or not

I have bought springs in country and have imported too..

Not not go cheap. My rears lasted one trip!






Handed springs were developed for RHD vehicles with the weight of the fuel tank and driver on the same side of the vehicle. Most people with LHD vehicles find that their truck does not site level with handed springs. For LHD vehicles I suggest using the same spring on both sides. I'm not a fan of parabolics because their construction increases side sway and wheel hop off road. Finding good quality steel springs that don't go flat is getting to be a problem. Make an effort to locate new Genuine Land Rover springs. They will be more expensive but will work better and last longer. I don't know if our host carries them, but I'm pretty sure that Pangolin 4X4 has them in stock.

The purpose of shocks is to dampen spring oscillation. How much shock you need depends upon the your spring's characteristics and what kind of surface you drive over. If your truck feels really bouncy stiffer shocks might help. If it feels overly stiff, less stiff shocks might help. Personally I'm running OME shocks in genuine LR leaf springs.

[TeriAnn]

IMy rears lasted one trip!

hmm ... I'm running the same genuine LR one ton springs since the mid 1990s and they are still holding up well. The one ton fronts were right for the front when I had the winch & I'm over sprung at the rear. I thought of going to station wagon (stiff side) rear springs but the one ton springs are holding up so well I'm sticking with them. They have ultra high density plastic sheets between the leaves so flex like or better than new.