Replace clutch master and slave on '74 Series III

[01birddog]

I just enjoyed some quality time with my Series III in replacing both slave and clutch cylinders. I had forgot how much fun it was removing the wing,getting dirt in my eyes,brake fluid in my arm pit, machine new bushing for all pivot points in clutch pedal, tap out all threads and replace with stainless bolts and all of this with only two chips out of paint on wing......It feels so positive now without all of the lost motion of worn parts and pedal leak down within the master cylinder. New original parts from our host.

[J!m]

Sounds good but remember that stainless hardware is softer than regular steel fasteners and also that they cause corrosion of less noble parts (i.e. the steel bits) even faster.

[01birddog]

I used liberal amount of anti seize so hopefully it will last a long time. Really the ones that hold the clutch box from the floor up would be the problem ones if it happens.....Thanks for tip.

[J!m]

When I rebuilt mine (‘71 II-A) I bought boxes of new hardware. Fine thread bolts, those odd washers (type B or something) and unlock nuts instead of lockeashets and plain nuts. Grade 5 zinc plated. They held up well and as an added bonus, the truck didn’t unbolt itself on the washboard roads in Africa! There were a few problems with that on the other trucks.

[Fernand]

Hi, do you have pictures of the clutch piping? Im installing a series 3 gearbox into my series 2a and now the slave is in the side of the MC and the 2a piping doesn’t make any sense to me. Any guidance on this conversion will be appreciated. Thanks

[erik88lr]

Just replaced the M/C on mine. Didn't remove the wing, just the splash guards under the wing and the bolts holding the wing to the bulkhead. Was able to pry it outward enough to remove the pedal box out through the bottom.

Only problem is now that it's all together if it rains I get a constant drip of water onto the clutch pedal. Haven't had a chance to figure out why yet.


1973 Ser III 88"