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View Full Version : Disc brake kit for a IIA, best one you can actually purchase now



nhasenau
04-18-2023, 08:22 PM
Is there someone that could provide advice on the best available disc kit for a series 2A 109?

jp-
04-18-2023, 08:59 PM
Yep. I've been looking at this quite a bit recently (as my custom front brake kit has an inadequate piston to pad area; or at least that's my current best guess assumption, but I need another kit to prove that).

So this is still pretty good info here: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/discBrake.htm
My updates are below.

Heystee no longer sells their complete kits, only components. I've asked them, but gotten no response about restarting the sale of their complete kits.

Roam Offroad isn't around anymore to my knowledge, or I couldn't find them if they are.

The Torrel kit is still available, but RM is currently running a 6 month backlog, so you'll have to put your name on a list and wait.

The Zeus kit is what I ordered, as they are only working on a 10 day backlog, and the Zeus kits require the least amount of work to fit. However, the rotors and calipers are custom if you're worried about them for replacements (brake pads are fairly common and available other places). Zeus are busy as they make kits for all types of vehicles. They are in the UK, so you're gonna have to call them early. It took me 5 days of calling to get through, and get my kit on order. (You can't order online unfortunately, because they have to quote you a shipping rate to the US.)(Also make sure to tell them if you are running the later Metric stud, M16, Series 3 hubs, as they have rotors available for these or the original 2A 9/16 stud hubs.)

Other kits not listed on TeriAnn's site:

Design and Development kits (they have front and rear kits). Downside to these is that you have to have some machining done on the hubs yourself and source all the rotors, calipers, pads, etc. But this is the cheapest kit out there. https://www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/shop/Series-Land-Rover-Front-Disc-Brake-Kit-p389433971

Forbyn Brothers kit (front and rear available). This is what I would use if money were no object. Still need to purchase rotors and calipers separately. http://www.forbynbros.com/disc-brake-conversion-kits/

Final considerations: All but two of these kits (to my knowledge) require you to use non-Series wheels. You'll likely need to run the Wolf wheels with all of these except the Torrel and Forbyn kits. I'm already running Wolf wheels so that's not a problem for me.

jp-
04-19-2023, 09:44 AM
Last thing I forgot to add last night is this: Most of these kits are not going to work well (if at all) with the stock single line, non-boosted Series brake master cylinder. So you're likely going to need to upgrade that at the same time. That is covered on TeriAnn's site as well.

nhasenau
04-20-2023, 12:50 PM
Thank you for the time and the reply. I will let you know which way I go.
Thanks
Noah

brdcollie
06-10-2023, 02:25 PM
Curious about this discussion. I'm in the early stage of total restoration of my 1967 2A. (Starting to build up Marsland frame). Engine/trany gets pulled next week. I've been talking to Forbyn about their disc conversion kit. Expensive, but seems to be a complete solution. Specifically, am looking for a disc conversion that would include a non-boosted, dual line system, that could be installed without the need to cut the wing to accommodate a larger (series 3) master cylinder. In talking to Greg at Forbyn's they had a client/friend that was working on the possibility of using a master cylinder from a 1971 Super Beetle, but had not yet actually tested it out. I've got a little time before I need to make a decision, but was hoping to hear someone's real life experience. If I hear more from Forbyn's I'll post the info here.

jp-
06-11-2023, 08:48 PM
My Zeus kit came in a few weeks ago and has been great. I'm very pleased with it. I read somewhere that they say it can be run un-boosted without issue, but no experience with that personally.

I still plan to go with the Forbyn kit for my next build though. I was also thinking of using their hydro boost brake master system to possibly avoid cutting the wing. I'm going to be running power steering so tee-ing in a line won't be a big deal. http://www.forbynbros.com/seriesdefender-replacement-pedal-tower-hydro-boost-adapter/

Running without a booster is an interesting idea. I know my 74 MGBGT has an unboosted master and it came stock with disc front, drum rear. So those systems do exist.

erik88lr
06-18-2023, 07:31 AM
Running without a booster is an interesting idea. I know my 74 MGBGT has an unboosted master and it came stock with disc front, drum rear. So those systems do exist.

My 1966 Volvo 122S/Amazon also has no booster for it's front disc/rear drum setup. Interestingly, later models years of the same car did come with a booster, so apparently enough people complained.

jacedo
09-14-2023, 12:59 AM
I did the Forbyn kit (+ the Rover's North disc/calipers kit + SIII vacuum boost/dual circuit/pedal upgrade kit from Pangolin). It's a lot of money and quite a bit of work, but WONDERFUL. Best upgrade I've done. Only tricky bit was trying to bleed the Defender calipers. Even with a pressurized bleeder, had to take the calipers off, flip them upside down, bleed and reinstall. (It was a mechanics trick that he'd used on an old Triumph). Had this setup on for about 4 years and its been flawless as a commuter in heavy traffic.

brdcollie
04-10-2024, 06:35 AM
Jacedo, could you post some photos of your Forbyn disc conversion. I'm beginning my own install of the Forbyn/Pangolin kit install, and it would be really helpful to see a completed project. Thanks!

jp-
04-10-2024, 11:17 AM
Here's my complete rear diff with the Forbyn kit installed. Still waiting on my front kit to come in.

https://www.gunsandrovers.com/filedata/fetch?id=220803&d=1709409478
https://www.gunsandrovers.com/filedata/fetch?id=220804&d=1709409493

(Jacedo, if you had to flip the calipers to bleed them, then you have the right and left calipers reversed. Just swap the L & R calipers. Bleed screws should always point up or be above the centerline of the calipers.)