Pics of new project. Want advise on fixing it up for island use.

[SweetPear]

I am starting to think of the different modifications that should be done to my "new" SIII 88 SW to convert it into a vehicle that will be problem free for island use in the caribbean. I got inspired by the Island 88 that ECR did for a customer in the British Virgin Islands. Looked spectacular but I am not planning on doing that type of restoration to it only to have the new shiney floors scratched to heck with all the sand that usually fills up the insides of the cars there. Was actually thinking of using Line X spray on bedliner for the floors and maybe the underside. Have the stuff on my new Dodge and I am extremely impressed with the durability. Besides having as much stuff galvanized as possible...any other suggestions.

Here is a link to the "rig":eek: http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee117/leathermanvt/

pick away....Love to hear comments...don't worry :nono: I have thick skin and have experience with lots of car restorations so not much scares me.

Chad

[LH Drive]

I had an Internetional Scout ll Diesel that I purchased for Surf fishing back in South Padre Island, Texas. I did'nt do a restoration to it since it was going to get alot of abuse from the sand. I Rhino linned the interior and added some 1" drain holes that were pluged up with boat plugs so I could just hose down the sand I would bring into the truck at the end of the day just before getting on the highway. The Rhino material was more rubber like than the hard rough Line X material and was easy on your body when crawling arround the truck.
On a Series truck, I would remove all the removable sections and have them sprayed apart so that you could always take panels off later to get to the areas that may need repair. I think it would also sound proof a series rover.

[SweetPear]

I agree with doing the panels separate. Even on my dually they did every little panel cover individual so everything can be removed later. I just remember when I rented a minivan last time I was there and it seemed like we had 10lbs of sand in it by the time we were finished 1 week later. Not an ideal situation. Love the idea on the removable plugs. Wash it down with a hose and she is good to go again.

Any other ideas? Love to hear if anyone can see anything that is horribly wrong from the pics. I know the bulkhead is getting punky and that exhaust system must be barely breathing having it kinked over like that. All of the outriggers have been replaced and I will probably end up replacing the clutch when I pull it apart. 15 years ago I rebuilt this engine for my brother and it still fires up beautifully. Probably only seen 5k miles over the last 20 years.

[Tim Smith]

Looks like a lovely starting point. If it were me, I'd get rid of the hard top and rear door and switch over to an old military top (sides rolled up) and tailgate. Not only does it have that beach dude look but you don't have to worry too much about it when it rains. Whatever gets wet, will just dry off with the constant island breeze. And honestly, things don't get too wet in that configuration.

If you did go that route, then make sure you get a top that you can roll up the sides on. Not all tops are created equal. The cheaper the better but make sure the canvas sides will roll up or else you'll hate it.

By the way, if you want to, then just toss that roof and door out along with those chains from the earlier string. I'll be sure to pick it all up for ya.

I'm very against litter! :p

Cheers,
Tim

[LaneRover]

That 'Kink' in the exhaust was probably very scientifically figured out to determine at what RPM it should start strangling the engine. Thus - it has a built in rev limiter.

Or at least more of a limiter than usual!

More later on things to do...

[SweetPear]

When my brother first showed me the pic of the exhaust....I was thinking...boy that must run like a champ with only 3/4" opening available. Not everyone know about air out = air in = power available. Good thing my cummins has a 4" exhaust. :thumb-up:

hmmmmm. a 5.9L 24V cummins in a 88. wouldn't that move quickly. Too bad there isn't any fuel available other than 87 and 91 octane gasoline on the island.

[yorker]

I don't imagine you'd need the heater anymore- maybe you could sell it to PH4? :p

[SweetPear]

That is one of the other mods I was going to do...remove the heater assembly. There never is a day that you would have to turn on the heater. Think the coldest it gets there year round is 80. Now an air conditioner would be nice but...then again..just another thing to break.

As far as swapping the hardtop over to a soft top..have thought about it but I am also trying to keep the costs down on this rehab. Now if someone had a new soft top assembly with correct gate that they wanted to swap...well that is a different story. Love the look of the soft top versions.

Chad

[SweetPear]

Hmmm....no comments or suggestions for this ole girl? Was hoping someone would pick apart the photos at all of the evil that lurks behind. Oh well. Guess I just have to be suprised when I go up there and pick it up on Weds.

[BackInA88]

Hmmm....no comments or suggestions for this ole girl? Was hoping someone would pick apart the photos at all of the evil that lurks behind. Oh well. Guess I just have to be suprised when I go up there and pick it up on Weds.
How much did your brother pay you to haul it away?;)

Hopefully enough to buy a bulkhead it looks shot to me, I would start looking for a better replacement. It's going to take a lot of time and money to repair that rust.
It also looked like it had some major corrosion to the aluminum of the rear tub?
You better check that frame real close.
You are going to need to get something in there to use as an inner wheel well. I can't see the master cylinder looking in from my wheel, yet.:o
It's going to allow a lot of sand to get into the engine compartment and start chewing stuff up like your carb linkage.
And I would switch out the springs for parabolics.

I agree, ditch the top and I would at least get rid of the door tops and than I would make up a top like the rigs on Fantasy Island!!:thumb-up:
Maybe I would stop short of the tassels though? Maybe not?:D

Drain plugs? I hose mine out all the time and I don't need no stinking drains plugs. In a scout with rocker panels yes, but a Series has a flat floor.:p

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but it's all fun until someone cracks a knuckle.

[SweetPear]

I knew from the start that the bulkhead would require the most work. Even thought about going the route of installing a new Defender 90 bulkhead since I am not really that concerned about "being original" but more about "being rust free"

As far as amount I was paid to "haul it away"...more like how much did I pay to have the "pleasure" of breaking open a knuckle or two. :sly:

[LaneRover]

I agree with the assesment of the bulkhead (as it sounds like you do). If you are going to replace the bulkhead, unless that frame is nearly perfect everywhere I would go ahead and do a galvinaized frame. They may not salt the roads because of the snow but there will be plenty of salt around on an island.

I also agree with the Parabolics since it looks like you need new springs anyway.

Truck mudflaps make great inner wheel arches and are REALLY CHEAP. I put some in mine using existing holes to bolt it in and wedging it into the lip of the wheelarch and have never had it ever come down on me while off-roading or driving down the road. It also saves you from getting those 'stars' in the paint from rocks coming off the wheels. A nice canvas top with the sides rolled up would be nice on the island. You don't need any other type of engine or gearing.

As for other mods? Well, the trucks were kind of built for just where you are taking it. They love puttering along at about 45, dirts roads and the like. If you have the soft top just make sure that all the little tool boxes lock up.

Brent

[Jim-ME]

Does it need to be registered, inspected etc once it gets to the island? If not I would eliminate any and all of the unnecessary lighting especially turn signals and the side running lights on the front fenders and on the tub. I think that you are well advised to get your bulkhead replaced and either get the new D90 one galvanized or coat the footwells with Line-X or something similar. I think the frame will take a beating from the salt air and salty sand so make sure it is in top shape or replace it with a galvanized frame. I would replace every seal that is leaking and take a complete set of every seal with you. I think you are smart to Line-X the interior but as I think it has already been mentioned, do it in parts so you can disassemble it later. It's too bad John Gerding isn't making stainless parts at this time because his radiator supports, mud guards and gas tanks are well worth the money. Keep us posted on what you end up doing.