Aha!...err...well...what ARE they?

[4flattires]

Sorting out my parts and pieces...I can't figure out what these are for.

[LH Drive]

The longer piece is the E-brake slack adjustment rod and the small bracket goes attached to the frame, this is where the hand brake lever attaches to engage the e-brake.

[LH Drive]

Sorry,, i'm wrong about the small bracket...It goes mounted to the bottom corner of the transmission on the t-case side. On that tab or eye is where you mount the t-case HI/Low shifter.
I had it right the first time but then I came back to edit my post. Those 1/2 inch spacers threw me off. I did'nt remember those when I removed my trans to replace my clutch. I have a Series 3 with the 2.25 petro engine, Looks like the spacers would change position on the shifter and might place it too close to the padded plastic lower dash.

[Leslie]

I concur, LH has them right.

[4flattires]

Thanks...and..

one more question.

Does the e-brake "pivot" that attaches to the frame, mount in the upper or lower hole on the frame.

Mine is in the upper hole. Seems the lower is damaged due to rock contact. The adjustment rod seems to have all the slack threads taken out of it to compensate for the upper mounting hole.

Thanks,

Jeff

[LH Drive]

I just crawed under my LR and yes it's mounted to the lower hole. As to why there is a top hole,,I don't know. The plunger rod also seems level to the floor and would make it easier to apply pressure to the E-brake. I would get some new metal welded back on and use that lower hole unless LR made a different pivot with a longer arm to be used on the higher hole.
Or use a 1/4 inch steel square cut to fit inside that mounting channel. Mark where the hole needs to be and place a welded nut on the inside part of the new metal plate. Weld the plate from the other side where the pivot goes and finish it by grinding it smooth. Now you already have the nut in position to just screw in your bolt.

[4flattires]

Thanks LH Drive

Aha...getting closer now. I have a good shot at straightening out what is bent on the frame.

According to the big green book H1-11 if I pull the operating rod from the housing (while installed) I seem to run a big risk of loosing the rollers (at least the top one) due to gravity.

The operating rod needs a bit of rehab with my welder, otherwise I would not be messing with it.

Would you concur with my prediction?

Thanks,

Jeff