View Full Version : 1995 4.2 Engine swap problems with pre-95 engines

10-05-2007, 10:52 AM
I hope someone could help with their professional option regarding differences between engines. I have over the past week discovered the 1995 classic 4.2 engines are some what different for pervious years, there was a change in the drive belt system to a serpentine drive belt, plus a crank-driven oil pump instead of a distributor driven design which required other changes such as the timing cover, Crankshaft, Vibration Damper, timing cover gaskets and a one pulley. The crankshaft on the earlier engines have a short nose 70.6MM and the later engines #40D09852-on have a long nose crankshaft 90.3MM.

Pre-serpentine belt design up to Engine #40D09851
the timing cover was part #ETC7385A
Crankshaft part #ERR3037
Vibration Damper part #ERR3442 ?

Later engines using the serpentine belt design engine #40D09852-on
uses timing cover part #ERR3434 which superseded to part #ERR6814
Crankshaft part #ERR4152
Vibration Damper part #ERR4594

I have had a problem with the idle since the engine swap, it is rough,lobby and falls below 550 RPM sometimes below 500RPM.

I believe the problem is related to the fact that late last year my extended warranty company provided a used engine from a 1993 4.2 LWB classic engine #40D05910A as a replacement for my engine block which had a slipped cylinder sleeve. The warranty company was not willing to provide a new block, it was cheaper to swap the whole motor? The local Land Rover dealer in Minnesota Luther Jaguar and Land Rover removed and replaced the engine. I had them at my own expense at the same time replace are the gaskets and seals plus I paid for a value job. The mechanic used parts from my engine to utilize the serpentine belt system. From day one the engine did not run well, the dealer told me this was normal for a 4.2 engine? After my second trip back to the dealer the mechanic told me that when he was assembling the front crankshaft pulley that the drift key would not fully in-gage so the service manager and the warranty company decided without informing me that Loctiting the crankshaft bolt would be fine? THe mechanic told me he thought this was not a good idea!

This is my third Range Rover Classic and second 4.2 engine model, and all the previous engines even the ones with a slipped sleeve ran better!

Can anyone provide me any professional options and/or documentation to prove my point.

Thank you!
Cell 952-484-9510

10-05-2007, 09:04 PM
I am not defending nor accusing anyone, but anything could have happened with a used engine, included but not limited to severe internal wear thereby causing un even cylinder compresion leading to improper idle.
also a severly worn cam will cause similar problems.
have they set proper base idle?, are the oxigen sensors in good shape?
are there any vacuum leaks?
an improperly balanced harmonic balance would cause severe vibration leading to premature main bearing wear and or internal knock.
is the timing properly set?
do they have the proper oil viscosity?
was the engine tuned at the time of assembly? plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air filter, fuel filter.
all of those will cause erroneus idle, carbon in the upper plenum passages will cause the same problems.
I am a mechanic with over 20 years experince on al types of motors, currently I am a rover dealer tech and from personal experience from my peers, many dealer techs do no give a hoot,they just want to get you out the door and if you came back with problems in reference to the last repair, your car gets bounced around from one guy to another until one figures out what is happening. meanwhile it is treated as an internal come back.
good luck with it....

10-07-2007, 10:55 AM
Thank you for your information.

I use the best Amsoil products for all applications and change them often (oil change 3k-4k) also the cap,rotor,wires and plugs are all new and OE Rover parts except the plugs and wires. The oxygen sensors are 14 months old, the air filter is new and I change my fuel filter once a year (after engine swap). I also replace the Dist. and all sensors related to fuel/Ing. system.

The deal twice has set the base idle and timed the engine?

I did notice when I replaced the Dist. and check the timing before and after that the timing marks we done my had with a white line? I think the dealer had problems fitting all and/or the correct items on the front of the crankshaft noise since it its almost 20mm shorter on the engine they installed 70.6 MM instead of 90.3 MM.