Rivets

[Jim-ME]

I know that there are rivets which are called blind rivets that were used on Series rovers. I also know and am learning more about hammer rivets thanks to friends that are aircraft mechanics. I plan to permanently attach the piece for the softtop to the windscreen and think that I should use blind rivets but wonder what the result would be if I used pop rivets instead. Can someone explain the difference between a blind rivet verses a pop rivet other than the obvious and fill me in on other places I should be using blind rivets? Thanks in advance,
Jim

[KevinNY]

My question would be, "Why?" It is a high and dry location that a nut bolt and lock washer should take care of handily and still allow you to remove if needed without drilling out rivets.

[msggunny]

My question would be, "Why?" It is a high and dry location that a nut bolt and lock washer should take care of handily and still allow you to remove if needed without drilling out rivets.

What about the ones on the outside?

I know the ones inside go through the lip at the top of the window, but dont the front rivets go through the front of the screen?

I just have the inside ones done now, but i am going to rivet, unless i can find another way, it down to the outside. It makes a squeeky noise that gets on my nerves.

[leafsprung]

blind rivet = pop rivet

[J!m]

Just to add to the confusion, as there doesn't seem to be enough here, there are pop rivets with the pulling bit exposed (open rivets) and with the pulling bit encased in the rivet body (closed rivets). Both are pop rivets and use the same tool to install, and are refered to as 'blind rivets' since you do not need access to the back side of the rivet. With an aircraft rivet, you need the anvil on the back side to peen the rivet, so it is not a blind rivet.

Anyplace the outside is to be kept from the inside (such as the tub rails on the series III) the closed rivets should be used (up to late II-a the tub rails used aircraft (solid) rivets), but other places the more common Homo-Depot open version can be used.

I think all the stock Land Rover rivets were closed rivets, or Aircraft in the case of the earlier trucks.

[Jim-ME]

Would blind rivets prevent water penetration or am I just being paranoid?

[J!m]

Closed blind rivets would; whereas open blind rivets will not.

Aircraft rivets also will block water ingress, but are not blind rivets.

[BackInA88]

Sealed Rivet


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/slouzon/SealedRivet.png

[LaneRover]

My question would be, "Why?" It is a high and dry location that a nut bolt and lock washer should take care of handily and still allow you to remove if needed without drilling out rivets.

I agree with being able to bolt on and off the soft top metal piece that is attached to the windshield. If the windshield didn't originally have the soft top piece then there shouldn't be any holes to let in water. If it did have the soft top originally then there might be an issue with water being able to get in.

Also, if you intend to ALWAYS have the soft top on then rivetting that piece on as well as the bolts does make sense. It doesn't make sense if you intend to go in between soft and hardtops, unless you don't mind drilling out and replacing rivets when you make the change.

Brent

[J!m]

If it was a permanent or semi-permanent instalation, I'd suggest a bead of Butyl caulk (the stuff they glue in windshields with) under that top piece.

This will make it more water-tight than any other part of the truck, including the engine case...

This will also significantly dampen vibration, and possibly eliminate the need for the rivets completely.

No holes to drill, no rivets to install, no rattles, completely reversible, since that butyl caulk never hardens, but won't run either. Great stuff, actually...

[Jim-ME]

Since the windscreen frame already has been drilled, I feel it is better to rivet the piece on. Thanks to all for your replies.
Jim

[LaneRover]

If it was a permanent or semi-permanent instalation, I'd suggest a bead of Butyl caulk (the stuff they glue in windshields with) under that top piece.

This will make it more water-tight than any other part of the truck, including the engine case...

This will also significantly dampen vibration, and possibly eliminate the need for the rivets completely.

No holes to drill, no rivets to install, no rattles, completely reversible, since that butyl caulk never hardens, but won't run either. Great stuff, actually...

Just make damn sure that you don't get any of that nasty crap on anything you don't want it to be on!