I need some votes on which way to go

[thixon]

As some of you saw, I recently got the IIa fired up for the first time since I bought it. The exhaust manifold gasket was blown, so I set about to replace it. I pulled the manifolds, and becuse I was curious, shined a flashlight in the head, what I saw did'nt surprise me, but confirmed some suspicions, so I went ahead and pulled the head.
The valve guide seals are shot (plenty of oil leaking dow). The valves appear to be seating properly, but they have alot of crap and deposits on them. The tops of the pistons look exactly as I expected. Some sooty deposits, but not bad (no holes at least!). There are some very small ridges in the cylinders (maybe half the thickness of a finger nail). Compression was even across all cylinders (tested before head was removed of course).

Here's were the vote comes in:

Option 1 (least expensive): get a new head and manifold gasket, bolt the thing back up, and seafome the crap out of it to clean the valves, and maybe think about replacing the valve guide seals. Leave the bottom end alone.

Option 2 (moderatly expensive, but still cheap enough): Buy the head overhaul kit. Take the head in for cleaning, magnafluxing, etc, and have the head rebuilt. Leave the bottom end alone.

Option 3 (there goes Christmas!): Option 2, plus rebuild the bottom end.

As usual, all help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Travis
66 IIa 88" (one day it'll be back on the road. Maybe)

[leafsprung]

Whats the compression?

[thixon]

Not sure if you're asking about the compression test, or the head, so here's both:

Compression test done with my crappy old tester yielded and average of 110 or so per cylinder. No great variations from cylinder to cylinder.

The truck is a 66' IIa, so I think its a 7:1 head. No work has been done to it. I know there a trick to determining the compression by looking at one of the head bolts under the valve cover, but I don't know the trick.

Thanks,

Travis

[thixon]

Wait,

I think there is an 8 stamped on the top of the head, which would indicate an 8:1 correct?

[yorker]

Wait,

I think there is an 8 stamped on the top of the head, which would indicate an 8:1 correct?

there is a square thing half down the head on the drivers side that is stamped with the compression ratio- or it might not be there and then it is a 7:1.

I'd rebuild it- take it to a **good** shop and you might be surprised how little it costs. They can source the hardened inserts etc. There was a company selling complete new heads with hardened valve seats for $500 but I don't think they have them anymore, plus everything was late style metrickery and that makes for a headache.

Usually once you put a nice fresh head on an older engine then you find out what the deficiencies are in the short block. That's what happened to me once.

[4flattires]

What your short term goal? Drive and enjoy? If so, get that puppy back up and running!

You mentioned the valves appear to be seating properly. That means you had them in the open position or removed. 110psi is not bad. Lack of consistency among cylinders is the decisive factor to spend more money on repairs.

If the valves have not been removed, its a super easy job with a rental (or borrowed) valve spring compressor and evaluate the valve seats and faces. Lots of pictures on the internet to help you understand valve seating

If good....button it back up after a good home cleaning (carb cleaner and wire brush) install some valve guide seals. Head removal is only a couple hour job and run it.

You would be suprised and what foul deposits are left by running poor gas, or gas that has been left sitting. They deposit crap REALLY fast.

Let your wallet do the voting, you're not committing your first born child with the decision. :)

Jeff