Wheel studs

[Glen]

I decided not to title this "looking for a stud" for fear my first foray here would give the wrong impression. However, I am looking for info on finding longer studs for my 88. I have changed over to a set of the Wolf wheels, but find it a bit disturbing to see that much exposed bolt thread. I know that studs from a 130 will fit, but they are coming in at 35 bucks a pop. $700 for a set? - I don't think so. Any ideas?http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif

[daveb]

LR does not make any longer studs. I researched this extensively for the same reason. Zeus makes some longer ones but they are $$$. I opted to run them as is. so far no problems. The only other solution is to use wheel spacers which will be held on by the existing stud. Then you get the longer stud (no brake drum in the way) to hold the wheel on.

Or you can use US made 5/8" studs that you fit yourself. Or you can switch to disc brakes. Or you can run them as is and make sure they are tight. Lots of folks out there doing the same thing...

rgrds
dave


I decided not to title this "looking for a stud" for fear my first foray here would give the wrong impression. However, I am looking for info on finding longer studs for my 88. I have changed over to a set of the Wolf wheels, but find it a bit disturbing to see that much exposed bolt thread. I know that studs from a 130 will fit, but they are coming in at 35 bucks a pop. $700 for a set? - I don't think so. Any ideas?http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif

[KingSlug]

I would suggest you call you locate tire shop and ask who they recommend to replace wheel studs. Take your LR down there look through the books with them to find something that suits your fancy then order through them or have them replace em if you are not mech inclined.

KingSlug

[Roverowner]

On my series rigs the threads come just to the end of the lug nut when torqued down, and there isn't any thread exposed. It's the same on my stock 15' wheels as well as on my RN 16' steelies.

[daveb]

hey slug,

your tire shops are alot better than the ones around here that don't even have the large size tire valves to fit the LR rims, can't balance the rims because of the large centers, and then don't even have the socekt to pull the 1 1/16 wheel nuts off.

you can search the dorman catalogas online. the LR stud size is 16mm, the only ones that I could find that size that were non LR were made by Ifor Williams.

Dorman makes up to 14mm. or you can go 5/8 as I have suggested. they make a wheel nut that looks about the same as the LR stuff.

there are folks out there that have done this.



I would suggest you call you locate tire shop and ask who they recommend to replace wheel studs. Take your LR down there look through the books with them to find something that suits your fancy then order through them or have them replace em if you are not mech inclined.

KingSlug

[daveb]

this is a problem unique to the NATO/wolf rims that are pressed from 1/4" steel. it's like having another brake drum on there. they are intended for trucks with disc brakes that don't have the additional thickness of a brake drum using up the thread length.



On my series rigs the threads come just to the end of the lug nut when torqued down, and there isn't any thread exposed. It's the same on my stock 15' wheels as well as on my RN 16' steelies.

[singingcamel]

Your right , the replacements are short.
I have done a modification on a couple of stripped out studs this way..
remove your hub,bearings out ,use a larger drill, the diameter of the collar on the new stud,counter sink the stud, then finish with a solid weld, has worked for me ..no problems..

[leafsprung]

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/hubstuds.jpg

[daveb]

hey ike and marc

the problem is not replacing the stock studs with more stock studs. the standard SIII and later wheel studs are too short to use the nato rims. the photo below shows a stock II/IIa hub being counterbored to fit a later style press in replacement (probably a narrow early style i.e. late IIa?) or a later style SIII 16mm press in stud. basically if you look at the back of a SIII hub it has counterbores like the one you are making.

but to solve the subect problem you would need to keep boring another 1/4". would that leave anough material outboard of the shoulder?



http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/hubstuds.jpg

[leafsprung]

Using NATO rims on that truck with those hubs, has studs I purchased locally. Works great, plenty of thread

[vandermeter]

was going to get wolfs for my "73 88, do I need new studs as well? want to upgrade to front discos in the spring.please advise.

[KingSlug]

hey slug,
your tire shops are alot better than the ones around here that don't even have the large size tire valves to fit the LR rims, can't balance the rims because of the large centers, and then don't even have the socekt to pull the 1 1/16 wheel nuts off.


I guess I do. When I had a stud stripped on my D90 the machine shop was able to get an studs longer than the stock ones in the same M16 size. In fact, I got the other 19 studs for free but not installed because the tire shop was paying for the agressiveness with a impact wrench and the machine shop had to order 20. Sadly I sent them off with the guy who bought my D90.

I have Disco steelies on my S2a 109 ambulance. They fit although I dont used the double sided nuts, on the single taper they come right to the end. I really wouldnt worry about new studs, unless they are loose or stripped.

KingSlug