Rookie Series IIA Owner Needs Help

[ChrisB]

https://webmail.sirote.com/exchange/cberdy/Inbox/Rovers/FW:%20Series%20IIA%20Pictures.EML/1_multipart_xF8FF_2_Series%20IIA%20001.jpg/C58EA28C-18C0-4a97-9AF2-036E93DDAFB3/Series%20IIA%20001.jpg?attach=1

I just purchased this 1970 Series IIA and my first Rover. I drove it from south Fla. to Alabama (a little over 700 miles) without any trouble.

After a week of driving great, the temp started to cool off in my part of the state, so I used the choke when starting on Fri morning (I pushed choke back in after it started). Two things happened that night on my way home from work.

First, it has almost no acceleration power, esp. when going uphill. You can walk faster uphill than it will currently drive. It starts and idles fine, however.

Second, it makes a semi-high pitched rattling noise that gets worse with acceleration, esp. in 3rd and 4th. It will make the same rattling noise when in neutral and depress the accelerator. With the bonnet up, the sound appears to be coming from the fan/radiator shroud area. It almost sounds like the sound of a coin tumbling in a drier that occasionally hits the sides of the drier drum.

Any thoughts for this first-time Series owner?

Thanks!

Chris

[Enigma]

On my series wen I use the choke, I invariably have to lift the bonnet(hood) and manually return the choke at the carb linkage to zero. Pushing in the choke lever on the dashboard will not close it properly. Rough running then occurs.

Cheers

[Daurie]

I'm still learning the rover but I'd check the fan shroud and make sure it, or anything else hasn't worked loose and moved toward the fan. I'd check the belt too. If you suspect the belt run a LITTLE water on it while the noise is present and see if it stops. If it does then it's most likely the belt.

As far as the no power issue I'd definatley check the choke linkage as Enigma posted. I don't know what carb. your running but my Weber has 2 levers that actuate when the choke is engaged and the linkage is interesting. Employ an assistant and have them work the choke while you note the operation under the hood. If the cable doesn't return the lever (or levers) back fully closed then try by hand and see if any improvment comes about.

I recently needed to adjust my choke cable and it took a few tries to get it just so. There isn't much room for variance as you have to get the choke fully closed and still go in far enough to get the cold start light off. :rolleyes:

BTW thats a long drive! I recently purchaced a '73 88" from S FL as well and I wasn't about to drive it to Memphis! I know it would have made it but I'm not sure I would have! How was the drive?

[BackInA88]

BTW thats a long drive! I recently purchaced a '73 88" from S FL as well and I wasn't about to drive it to Memphis! I know it would have made it but I'm not sure I would have! How was the drive?

I took mine 3000 miles thru New England last Sept camping.:D
Now that was a long drive!:thumb-up:

Steve

[Enigma]

Mine still has the Solex carb

[ChrisB]

Thanks all for the suggestions. It has a Weber carb. I will check the choke linkage.

As you might suspect, 700 miles (or more:)) in a Series is interesting. I had about 250 of those miles on I-95, which was somewhat unpleasant. I did actually pass one car though. I wanted to meet the seller and talk to him in person about the vehicle, etc.

[Daurie]

Over 700 miles and only one car going the other direction!!?? :D

Let us know what you figure out on that thing.

[Daurie]

I took mine 3000 miles thru New England last Sept camping.:D
Now that was a long drive!:thumb-up:

Steve


I'm trying to put together some kind of expedition for my GF and I. I've always been an avid camper / backpacker. Ideally I'd like to find some nice long trail and spend a week exploring. Any suggestions?

[ChrisB]

Over 700 miles and only one car going the other direction!!?? :D

Let us know what you figure out on that thing.

Sorry. I meant I actually passed a car going in the same direction while traveling north on I-95 in my aluminum friend. I was going slow, but he was going painfully slow.

I will let y'all know what I figure out. In searching the forum, I have come up with a couple of ideas for places to look in the fuel system, btn the gas tanks to the carb. I forgot to mention that my IIA has an auxillary tank and I switched to it the other day. There may be crud and old gas that is part of the problem.

Thanks again for the help.

[SHORLAND]

Sounds like it could be 3 problems. 1st it does sound like crud came out of the other tank and hopfully is just clogging a fuel filter and not the little passages in your carburator. 2nd problem sounds like your Choke still might be slightly engaged. 3rd problem sounds like a fan belt or shroud could be working loose and isnt related to 1 or 2 except in timing. Please let us know what you find. I would also pull both tanks and have them boiled out. Take them to a radiator shop for that.:thumb-up:

[KSMTAW]

As far as the noise in 3rd or 4th gear when under load, Has anyone thought about cheking the valves for proper clearance?

If the air/ fule mixture is not right, it might "ping"
But if the valves are too loose, it might make "chatter"

It is easy to check the valve clearance using the starting handle and a feeler gauge. Be careful not to damage the cork gasket, or make sure you have a replacement on hand.

V/R
Todd

[singingcamel]

[quote=BackInA88]I took mine 3000 miles thru New England last Sept camping.:D
Now that was a long drive!:thumb-up:
1989 ,1964 doormobile to Alaska and back, 500 miles per day...thats a trip!!

[singingcamel]

hard to tell from your description, if the sound is there with the clutch in and out, kind of eliminates the drive train, does it do it while coasting ?
and at idle?
may be your water pump squeeling or or bearing going out in the alt?
you will have noticeable drive train noise in these beasts as well. check your transmision and transfer case gear oil!
www.singingcamel.com (http://www.singingcamel.com)

[ChrisB]

Well, problem solved, at least for now...It turns out that cylinder #1 was not firing and the spark plug was coated in fresh oil. After removing the valve cover, we discovered that the rocker arm was out of place, as the push rod was not contacting the rocker arm.

This accounts for the two problems. First, the "rattling" noise was from the rocker arm/push rod problem. #1 is closest to the fan, thus my (mistaken) belief that the noise was coming from the fan belt/shroud area. Second, the loss of power was from cylinder #1 not firing. Also, the accelerator linkage needed adjustment.

Any thoughts on what might have caused the rocker arm/push rod problem??

[Terrys]

Any thoughts on what might have caused the rocker arm/push rod problem??

Stuck valve, snapped back closed after cam had gone round the bend. Make sure you're getting plenty of top end oil flow, as stuck vlaves in these, with solid pushrods, is related to dry guides