Clutch problem... leaking. Ideas?

[Roverdawg76]

Hey all! I have fluid leaking down the clutch pedal into my floorboard... where does this prob point to? Ideas to fix? Help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! BC

[scott]

what's failing, brakes or clutch? the two master cylinders are possible culprits. if the share a reservoir look inside and if the little can inside the bigger can is empty then it's the clutch.

solution, rebuild or replace the leaking master cylinder. i've recently did my clutch master cylinder and it can be challenging. a few had advised me to remove the wing but being a lazy guy i didn't. final adjustments were difficult but i got it.

[Roverdawg76]

Thanks... geez... was hoping for something simple. Yes, it's the clutch... not the brakes...

[scott]

it' comes out easy enough. jack stand it, remove the front left wheel, i sat on the wheel with the brake drum in the center of my lower back. remove that mud guard. get up grab a beer, then undo the line. once you got the mc, its housing and the pedal out make note of where the pedal travel adjustment is set. i didn't, wish i had. switch out the mc. the two nuts on the adjustments are differant sizes. and depending on whether the pedal is at rest or depressed one of these nuts will not be accessable, the end of the pedal that the adj rod goes through has these raised pieces that prevent a open end wrench from getting arround the nut. you see all this when you get it out. if you get the adj wrong and the pedal does not travel back far enough a pressure bleed valve won't open and after a couple of pedal stomppings you'll over pressurize the system, clutch slippage and old flex line explosion brought this to my attention. made a note to self, never test drive after repairs late at night farther than you want to walk. wife was a bit peeved to have to travel out 5 miles at 11pm to drag me and the rove home.

[singingcamel]

Hey all! I have fluid leaking down the clutch pedal into my floorboard... where does this prob point to? Ideas to fix? Help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! BC

master clutch cylinder
easiest to remove the outer wing, pain in the butt, can be done with the wing on but you may have a few choice words to say..good luck

[Roverdawg76]

Really appreciate the input and help guys... thanks so much! Guess I'll jump on a Master Cylinder and give this a whirl!

Brantley

[luckyjoe]

If the clutch flex line and slave cylinder are the same (or unknown) age, I suggest you replace them too. Then you know your clutch hydraulic circuit is good...

Also, while you have it apart, check the free movement on the clutch pedal shaft. How freely does the clutch pedal swing? Any binding? There is a small bolt on one end of the pivot, you remove this and traditionally fill with oil. I've had good results filling it with light, synthetic (bicycle) grease. This will keep the bushings lubed and not leak out. If you fill the pivot void, when you replace the bolt it will force grease into the bushings, then bob's your uncle.

Note: On RHD vehicles I believe the lube port bolt faces toward the motor, so you might be able to reach it in situ. On LHD vehicles they face away from the motor, so you need to remove the wing to get to them (best to lube them while things are already apart).

Painting the pedal while it's apart is optional.

Regards,

[Roverdawg76]

Joe... can you direct me to the links on Rovers North of the parts you suggest I get? Wanna make sure I'm getting the right thing so I can get this taken care of... shall be a good project to tackle. Btw, my truck is a 80' Series III 109", rhd... thanks fellas!

[friar mike]

Joe... can you direct me to the links on Rovers North of the parts you suggest I get? Wanna make sure I'm getting the right thing so I can get this taken care of... shall be a good project to tackle. Btw, my truck is a 80' Series III 109", rhd... thanks fellas!
mine is also a 1980 SIII 109 rhd. if you guys do a brake master cly on a 109 and you can't get the brakes to bleed out right jack the rearend as high as you can or dare and bleed it works like a charm for some reason the longer wheel base can trap air. just a little FYI.

[Roverdawg76]

Bump.

[thixon]

Roverdawg76,

Just went threw the thread. Have you replaced the clutch master yet? Its most likely the culprit if fluid suddenly started leaking down the clutch pedal. The clutch flex line can also blow out, but you'll see fluid leaking down the backside of the firewall (usually) when it goes. I'd replace both if you hav'nt already.

Travis
'66 IIa 88"

[Roverdawg76]

Thanks for the insight Travis... I haven't done it yet, dying to... I looked at the parts on Rovers North... I'm not sure exactly what all parts (besides the actual master cylinder unit) I'll need. There are lots of little parts / pieces / hoses that seem to go with that setup... any help or links to the right stuff would be greatly appreciated. I guess I'll go ahead and pull the thing out, just so I can see what's actually going on...

[Terrys]

If the hose feels firm, and not mushy, Just get the rebuild kit for the master cylinder. It's a damn site cheaper than replacing the whole master cylinder. Instead of making yourself nuts, pick up the phone and call Arthur on X226.

Since you have a rhd truck it won't take you an hour, two on the outside, to take the MC out, rebuild it, and put it back. It's a lot bigger job on a LHD truck, but that's only because it's such a pain to get out. Regardless of what others say, the wing off method is the only way to go.
I've had 2 RHD trucks and 12 LHD trucks since the early 70s and wouldn't you know, I never needed to replace the clutch MC in either of the RHD trucks. I think I've done about 8 (on just my own), and my 110 is on a wing and a prayer now.

[thixon]

Roverdawg,

No problem. I agree with Terrys on the flexhose, if it feels firm everywhere, then it should last a while longer. The hose tends to buldge when it going bad, instead of failing completely (which would cause a fluid leak), which can cause issues with clutch disengagement when you hit the pedal. That's why I don't think its the hose. If you see fluid down the pedal, its a classic master cylinder failure symptom. In addition, the clutch can and usually does still operate properly even though you have the leak.

If you do choose to rebuild it instead of buying new, don't forget to check the inside of the cylinder for pitting or a ridge. If you find either then hone the inside of the cylinder.