Brake Booster (Power Brakes)

[pvkd]

I have a Series IIa 109 without power brakes. What is the general opinion on upgrading to power brakes?

Thanks,


Paul

[I Leak Oil]

Do it! You can usually find used parts at a reasonable price, and you can go to a dual circuit MC for added reliability while you're at it....If you ever want to upgrade to discs in the front you'll need the power setup anyway.
Jason T.

[pvkd]

Any more opinions out there. Do the brakes act differently.. better?

Thanks,


Paul

[LaneRover]

With a dual power set-up they certainly act differently if a brake line starts squirting out brake fluid!

Brent

[4flattires]

..and want to keep things in the Barney Rubble era...

Convert to power my friend. I can't think of a automotive platform today that PB is not factory originated. They may call it an option, but ordering it without PB is pretty tough.

Jeff

[TeriAnn]

Any more opinions out there. Do the brakes act differently.. better?
Opinions? Always!

I personally like them. :thumb-up::thumb-up::thumb-up: They do give you a boost when it comes to stopping your Land Rover. The booster is too small to provide a modern car brake feel but they do noticably help ... assuming everything is adjusted properly and the engine is running. A larger than stock booster would be nice though. A Defender booster is a little too large in diameter to fit. The Santana booster seems to be a good upgrade though.

This company sells Santana brake boosters:

http://www.heystee-automotive.com (http://www.heystee-automotive.com/)
(Look at the top of the disc brake conversion web page for the link to the servo)
My power brake conversion page:

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm
(A description of how I did my conversion)

[leafsprung]

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/hydroboost.jpg

[TeriAnn]

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/hydroboost.jpg

I got one of those sitting on a shelf if someone would like to buy it. I was going to install it on my Land Rover but decided not to. $40 + shipping.

[leafsprung]

I'll take it if it works.

[pvkd]

Thanks for all the replies. The information is helpful.

My Landie is a UK model 1971 Series IIa 109 with a Series III gear box. Like TeriAnn had, I have a single circuit non-servo assisted braking system.

I do not understand the PDA line routing? TeriAnn says "I routed new brake lines between the Master brake cylinder and the PDA using the original line routing." .. but I my orginal rounting (I think it is orginal) has a 4 way fitting and no brake light switch in this fitting. The brake light switch is mounted on the peddle box ( I don't know if this is standard or a modification made by a previous owner).

The link for the Heystee talks about a signal line system and say that the servo is a remote unit. This confused me because I thought that the servo acts directly of movement of the peddle. And secondly the whole point of going to power brakes would be to move to a dual circuit system. Am I confused here?

Thanks in advance,


Paul

[I Leak Oil]

The simplest setup you could put in would be to source a used pedal box, new or used servo and new brake and clutch masters. This would bolt right in but you would still have to replumb the lines. The PDA valve, or shuttle valve as others call it is basically an added safety feature that shuts off brake fluid flowing to an open circuit. It is plumbed in directly down stream of the brake master cylinder. Some people use them some don't. Assuming you don't use one your plumbing would look like this. From the front MC port to a 3 way, then one line to the left front, one to the right front. Same for the rear, just run a line from the rear MC port to the existing 3 way on the rear axle.
The remote booster is an option if you want power brakes but don't want to swap all the other components or if space on the firewall is an issue.
There are lots of ways to go with brakes but short of your single, non-power system this is about as easy as it gets.
Jason T.

[TeriAnn]

The simplest setup you could put in would be to source a used pedal box, new or used servo and new brake and clutch masters. This would bolt right in but you would still have to replumb the lines. The PDA valve, or shuttle valve as others call it is basically an added safety feature that shuts off brake fluid flowing to an open circuit. It is plumbed in directly down stream of the brake master cylinder. Some people use them some don't. Assuming you don't use one your plumbing would look like this. From the front MC port to a 3 way, then one line to the left front, one to the right front. Same for the rear, just run a line from the rear MC port to the existing 3 way on the rear axle.
The remote booster is an option if you want power brakes but don't want to swap all the other components or if space on the firewall is an issue.
There are lots of ways to go with brakes but short of your single, non-power system this is about as easy as it gets.
Jason T.

DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!!!!

1. 88 & 109 master cylinders have different guts and you plumb them differently. Plumb a 109 master cylinder the same way you do an 88 and the system will require multiple pumps to achieve brakes. The 88 master cylinder doesn't require a PDWA. The 109 master cylinder only requires a PDWA if you want brakes at the rear if the front circuit fails.

2. You do need to make a cut in the bulkhead to install a dual circuit power brake pedistal assembly.

3. The wing mounted booster is designed for sinle system power brakes.

[I Leak Oil]

All good points TerriAnn. When I say rear MC port I mean the rear circuit port not literally the rear port on the MC as the 109" and 88" are opposite. Also, I forgot to add you may have to cut the top of the fender if you have the early style fenders.
Jason T.