Removing crankshaft pulley nut - IIA

[tmckeon88]

Hi everyone-

I am going to need to replace my front crankshaft seal on my 69' IIA soon, as it is leaking pretty badly, and I have made a few desultory attempts to turn that big crankshaft pulley nut with an 18" bar but no luck. (I was a little afraid of losing my grip and damaging the radiator or something, so I may not have given it my all.) Does anyone have a good, safe and reliable technique for getting that nut to relinquish its several-decades-long hold? When I tried it before, it seemed like the whole drivetrain had some give in it and you couldn't really give a snappy pull on the wrench.

Also, in case it's necessary, where would I get a Speedi-Sleeve to line the pulley shaft with? And the diameter? My engine by the way is from a series II so it's probably a 7:1 compression, in case that matters.

Thanks everyone. This is the truck that made the Pan-American Highway trip from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego so I'm committed to keeping it going!:)

Tom

[rovertek]

an impact wrench works great providing it has enough power,or a breaker bar and piece of pipe the problem you will have is holding the engine from turning while doing this (try inserting rope in a sparkplug hole and it will stop the engie from turning with no damage) then reverse the rotation when done and remove rope, the repair sleeve you can purchase from your local auto part jobber just mic the crank for measurement..

[tmckeon88]

Thanks- I may have to just go get a length of pipe , the magic torque multiplier. 1001 uses.

Tom

[thixon]

If it were me, I'd use an impact wrench. If you don't have a compressor to run air tools, there are several brands of electric impact wrenches on the market. I have a dewalt that I love. I use it more than my air tools, and I can take it with me if I need it outside the garage.

[jp-]

If it were me, I'd use an impact wrench. If you don't have a compressor to run air tools, there are several brands of electric impact wrenches on the market. I have a dewalt that I love. I use it more than my air tools, and I can take it with me if I need it outside the garage.

2nd that!

I have a Dewalt 3/4" drive electric impact. Just use a long extension, and either go through the bumper hole, or remove the bumper.

[daveb]

hi

brace your breaker bar on the correct frame rail or leaf spring and blip the starter. BTDT works every time never damaged anything. just make sure you have it all sorted which way it is going to swing.

once you try it you will never go back.

-dave



Hi everyone-

I am going to need to replace my front crankshaft seal on my 69' IIA soon, as it is leaking pretty badly, and I have made a few desultory attempts to turn that big crankshaft pulley nut with an 18" bar but no luck. (I was a little afraid of losing my grip and damaging the radiator or something, so I may not have given it my all.) Does anyone have a good, safe and reliable technique for getting that nut to relinquish its several-decades-long hold? When I tried it before, it seemed like the whole drivetrain had some give in it and you couldn't really give a snappy pull on the wrench.

Also, in case it's necessary, where would I get a Speedi-Sleeve to line the pulley shaft with? And the diameter? My engine by the way is from a series II so it's probably a 7:1 compression, in case that matters.

Thanks everyone. This is the truck that made the Pan-American Highway trip from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego so I'm committed to keeping it going!:)

Tom

[thixon]

Dave,

No offense, but isnt that a bit dangerous?

[tmckeon88]

Yeah, I was wondering that myself! By the way, the pulley nut is threaded normally, isn't it? Lefty-loosey?

Tom

[ajones]

When I replaced my front main that is how I finally broke the nut lose, but I used a strap to ensure the wrench did not become an airborne projectile!

[daveb]

hey,

no offense taken at all, happy to discuss that aspect of it because I want to encourage folks to try it and see how well it really works.

I've done it so many times I can't count. the socket and bar just fall off immediately. then you find that the nut (actually more like a bolt) is loose or all the way out. it really is sweet.

make sure you undo the locking tab first, and that the bar is resting on something solid. that way is doesn't flail around.

btw I am using a 3/4" drive t-bar and a rebular 12 point socket in the appropriate size. (1 5/16" I *think*)

also nodanger to life limb etc as it can be done with the bonnet closed and of course you are in the car.

so, no I don't think it is dangerous if done using some basic common sense as with any mechanical operation on any vehicle.

rgrds
dave



Dave,

No offense, but isnt that a bit dangerous?

[daveb]

yes. remember that you basically want the engine to spin around the now stationary bolt.

notice that i said bolt as it actually is a bolt and not a nut.


Yeah, I was wondering that myself! By the way, the pulley nut is threaded normally, isn't it? Lefty-loosey?

Tom

[thixon]

dave,

to be honest, I'd probably try it, and have certainly done worse before on other vehicles. That being said, I'd hate to see a novice mechanic tear up his truck (or worse) trying it. That was my motivation for the first post. You explained it well, and it should cause anyone any trouble.

[Moose]

I used Dave's method last week because nothing else was working. I braced the bar on the frame rail but the starter would not spin. What I had to do was put the socket on with the bar pointing up. I put a block of wood on the frame where the bar would strike, then hit the starter. Took four attempts before the bolt spun loose. The rad was out so I was too concerned about anything being damaged.

Brett

[friar mike]

I used Dave's method last week because nothing else was working. I braced the bar on the frame rail but the starter would not spin. What I had to do was put the socket on with the bar pointing up. I put a block of wood on the frame where the bar would strike, then hit the starter. Took four attempts before the bolt spun loose. The rad was out so I was too concerned about anything being damaged.

Brett
And don't make a novice mistake pull the coil wire. Now how are you going to properly torque on that bolt?

[thixon]

Amen Friar Mike. Amen.

[Moose]

And don't make a novice mistake pull the coil wire. Now how are you going to properly torque on that bolt?
Shouldn't be too difficult. I find it harder to undo a tight bolt then to torque it up to spec. Worst case, once I get it running again, I'll back it up against a wall so it can't move then heave on it.
:D

Brett

[friar mike]

Shouldn't be too difficult. I find it harder to undo a tight bolt then to torque it up to spec. Worst case, once I get it running again, I'll back it up against a wall so it can't move then heave on it.
:D

Brett
I have had someone on the brake and in gear that works. one other way but you have to watch what you are doing get number one cyl coming up on a firing stroke put some small rope down the spark plug hole enuff to lock up the piston run it up till locked torque the bolt back off and pull the rope out. now it has to be on a firing stroke or you can bend a valve this method is not recommended for someone new at the game but works real well. it is one of the method in some engine manuals when in the field or with the engine out of the truck. it gives you a soild stop to torque against where using the gear/brake method you have give as you try the torque the bolt and can give a false reading but not by much.