Help Removing Emergency Brake Drum

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  • Jeff Aronson
    Moderator
    • Oct 2006
    • 569

    Help Removing Emergency Brake Drum

    I wanted to check the brake drum and adjuster on the transmission brake of my II-A. I removed the propshaft from the rear to give myself some room and then tried to remove the drum itself.

    The nuts came off the thin studs ok, but the drum would not budge even when there was no tension on the adjuster. The drum seemed to be "stuck" on and would not pry loose. I sprayed a lot of PB Blaster on the studs, but to no avail.

    I could not find a bolt to insert into what seemed to be a threaded hole in the drum, as on the wheel brake drums.

    Anyone have any tips as to how to remove that drum?

    Thanks,

    Jeff
    Jeff Aronson
    Vinalhaven, ME 04863
    '66 Series II-A SW 88"
    '66 Series II-A HT 88"
    '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
    '80 Triumph Spitfire
    '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
    http://www.landroverwriter.com
  • Daurie
    2nd Gear
    • Nov 2007
    • 251

    #2
    '73 SIII 88"
    Turner 8:1 Engine
    NRP Exhaust
    Roverdrive
    RM Parabolics
    OME Shocks
    Warn 8274
    Pangolin4X4 bumper

    Comment

    • Daurie
      2nd Gear
      • Nov 2007
      • 251

      #3
      You probaby have that info but it appears you remove the nut in the center as well.. If you've got that out it looks like it should be free.. unless something is keeping the shoes engaged.. Could be a worn drum and the shoes aren't releasing in enough to clear the lip. I run into that nearly every drum job I've done!! Has the trans brake seen alot of use?
      Last edited by Daurie; 01-17-2008, 04:24 PM.
      '73 SIII 88"
      Turner 8:1 Engine
      NRP Exhaust
      Roverdrive
      RM Parabolics
      OME Shocks
      Warn 8274
      Pangolin4X4 bumper

      Comment

      • leafsprung
        Overdrive
        • Nov 2006
        • 1008

        #4
        drum

        You dont have to remove the nut (it secures the output flange to the output shaft) Sometimes they can be sticky, try a brass hammer.

        Comment

        • Daurie
          2nd Gear
          • Nov 2007
          • 251

          #5
          Originally posted by leafsprung
          You dont have to remove the nut (it secures the output flange to the output shaft) Sometimes they can be sticky, try a brass hammer.
          Wasn't sure.. I've never had to have mine off. I've run into some larger trucks (not Rover) that have a lip on the output flange that retains the drum.

          Shows what I know I know they can be a booger though.
          '73 SIII 88"
          Turner 8:1 Engine
          NRP Exhaust
          Roverdrive
          RM Parabolics
          OME Shocks
          Warn 8274
          Pangolin4X4 bumper

          Comment

          • jp-
            5th Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 981

            #6
            Um...

            I think you do have to remove that nut. If you want to remove the output flange and drum as a unit, which most do.

            Otherwise you have to take loose the six bolts (nuts actually) holding the drum to the flange.
            61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
            66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
            66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
            67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
            88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

            -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

            Comment

            • leafsprung
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1008

              #7
              then tried to remove the drum itself.
              You dont have to take the flange off if you are just doing an inspection. To remove JUST the drum it only requires the removal of the nuts securing the drum to the flange. You dont even have to take the propshaft off (you can just slide the drum down the shaft.)
              Last edited by leafsprung; 01-17-2008, 05:54 PM.

              Comment

              • SalemRover
                3rd Gear
                • Aug 2007
                • 310

                #8
                If there is a slight groove to the drum then the pads could be sitting in there preventing it from coming off. You could slakcen off the adjusting nut for the brake shoes. Hope this helps.

                -Jason

                Comment

                • Jeff Aronson
                  Moderator
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 569

                  #9
                  Thanks for the diagrams and the ideas. I've tried them all but to no avail. I might have to try and heat up the drum to see if I can loosen it around the studs. You need something around it to hammer against as you can't get behind the drum.

                  Jeff
                  Jeff Aronson
                  Vinalhaven, ME 04863
                  '66 Series II-A SW 88"
                  '66 Series II-A HT 88"
                  '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
                  '80 Triumph Spitfire
                  '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
                  http://www.landroverwriter.com

                  Comment

                  • jp-
                    5th Gear
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 981

                    #10
                    You may have to make up a puller to go between the drive shaft mounting bolts and that would press against the end of the output shaft. I had to do something similar on a 924 Porsche I had.
                    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
                    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
                    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
                    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
                    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

                    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

                    Comment

                    • leafsprung
                      Overdrive
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 1008

                      #11
                      Hammer on the side of the drum (you should not be able to brake the drum) with a brass hammer. It should knock free if its just some corrosion between the drum and flange holding in place. If its already loose from the flange it might be hanging up on something (some of the brake parts have come loose jaming it in place). You can remove the nut securing it to the flange and all the fasteners that connect the speedo housing to the trans and remove the entire assembly . . . if you have to.

                      Comment

                      • singingcamel
                        4th Gear
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 398

                        #12
                        Jeff,
                        You do not have to remove the big castle not to remove the drum. These these drums have a tendancy to sit in the grooves made by the e brake shoes and can really be tough to get off.
                        DO NOT pry on the drum, you will break or chip it.
                        use a hard rubber mallet and tap on the flat surface ans the narrower surface to get those shoes to move or release.
                        also spray p b blaster thru all the cracks and work the e brake up and down and let it sit over night and then try tapping it againin the morning, the frustration level will be a little lower.
                        should work for you.marc good luck

                        Comment

                        • Jeff Aronson
                          Moderator
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 569

                          #13
                          Thanks for the new suggestions. I'll give them a whirl when I can crawl under the car without digging through a snowdrift.

                          Jeff
                          Jeff Aronson
                          Vinalhaven, ME 04863
                          '66 Series II-A SW 88"
                          '66 Series II-A HT 88"
                          '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
                          '80 Triumph Spitfire
                          '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
                          http://www.landroverwriter.com

                          Comment

                          • LaneRover
                            Overdrive
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 1743

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Jeff Aronson
                            Thanks for the new suggestions. I'll give them a whirl when I can crawl under the car without digging through a snowdrift.

                            Jeff
                            Just remember that drifting snow can really cut down on the cold wind. It would be like working in a little snow cave ;-)

                            A little electric heater, a bit of brandy....



                            Brent
                            1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                            1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                            1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                            1969 109 P-UP

                            http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

                            Comment

                            • singingcamel
                              4th Gear
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 398

                              #15
                              Snow caves can be warm and fun

                              Comment

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