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View Full Version : Help Removing Emergency Brake Drum



Jeff Aronson
01-17-2008, 01:59 PM
I wanted to check the brake drum and adjuster on the transmission brake of my II-A. I removed the propshaft from the rear to give myself some room and then tried to remove the drum itself.

The nuts came off the thin studs ok, but the drum would not budge even when there was no tension on the adjuster. The drum seemed to be "stuck" on and would not pry loose. I sprayed a lot of PB Blaster on the studs, but to no avail.

I could not find a bolt to insert into what seemed to be a threaded hole in the drum, as on the wheel brake drums.

Anyone have any tips as to how to remove that drum?

Thanks,

Jeff

Daurie
01-17-2008, 02:16 PM
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g72/Daurie/untitled-1.jpg

Daurie
01-17-2008, 02:20 PM
You probaby have that info but it appears you remove the nut in the center as well.. If you've got that out it looks like it should be free.. unless something is keeping the shoes engaged.. Could be a worn drum and the shoes aren't releasing in enough to clear the lip. I run into that nearly every drum job I've done!! Has the trans brake seen alot of use?

leafsprung
01-17-2008, 02:41 PM
You dont have to remove the nut (it secures the output flange to the output shaft) Sometimes they can be sticky, try a brass hammer.

Daurie
01-17-2008, 02:50 PM
You dont have to remove the nut (it secures the output flange to the output shaft) Sometimes they can be sticky, try a brass hammer. Wasn't sure.. I've never had to have mine off. I've run into some larger trucks (not Rover) that have a lip on the output flange that retains the drum.

Shows what I know :rolleyes: I know they can be a booger though.

jp-
01-17-2008, 03:42 PM
Um...

I think you do have to remove that nut. If you want to remove the output flange and drum as a unit, which most do.

Otherwise you have to take loose the six bolts (nuts actually) holding the drum to the flange.

leafsprung
01-17-2008, 03:50 PM
then tried to remove the drum itself.

You dont have to take the flange off if you are just doing an inspection. To remove JUST the drum it only requires the removal of the nuts securing the drum to the flange. You dont even have to take the propshaft off (you can just slide the drum down the shaft.)

SalemRover
01-17-2008, 05:53 PM
If there is a slight groove to the drum then the pads could be sitting in there preventing it from coming off. You could slakcen off the adjusting nut for the brake shoes. Hope this helps.

-Jason

Jeff Aronson
01-18-2008, 09:04 AM
Thanks for the diagrams and the ideas. I've tried them all but to no avail. I might have to try and heat up the drum to see if I can loosen it around the studs. You need something around it to hammer against as you can't get behind the drum.

Jeff

jp-
01-18-2008, 11:12 AM
You may have to make up a puller to go between the drive shaft mounting bolts and that would press against the end of the output shaft. I had to do something similar on a 924 Porsche I had.

leafsprung
01-18-2008, 11:17 AM
Hammer on the side of the drum (you should not be able to brake the drum) with a brass hammer. It should knock free if its just some corrosion between the drum and flange holding in place. If its already loose from the flange it might be hanging up on something (some of the brake parts have come loose jaming it in place). You can remove the nut securing it to the flange and all the fasteners that connect the speedo housing to the trans and remove the entire assembly . . . if you have to.

singingcamel
01-18-2008, 04:59 PM
Jeff,
You do not have to remove the big castle not to remove the drum. These these drums have a tendancy to sit in the grooves made by the e brake shoes and can really be tough to get off.
DO NOT pry on the drum, you will break or chip it.
use a hard rubber mallet and tap on the flat surface ans the narrower surface to get those shoes to move or release.
also spray p b blaster thru all the cracks and work the e brake up and down and let it sit over night and then try tapping it againin the morning, the frustration level will be a little lower.
should work for you.marc good luck

Jeff Aronson
01-19-2008, 09:24 AM
Thanks for the new suggestions. I'll give them a whirl when I can crawl under the car without digging through a snowdrift.

Jeff

LaneRover
01-19-2008, 11:33 AM
Thanks for the new suggestions. I'll give them a whirl when I can crawl under the car without digging through a snowdrift.

Jeff

Just remember that drifting snow can really cut down on the cold wind. It would be like working in a little snow cave ;-)

A little electric heater, a bit of brandy....



Brent

singingcamel
01-22-2008, 01:53 PM
Snow caves can be warm and fun:thumb-up: